Hayter 10/30 wont drive

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Viewing 14 posts - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • #34513
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Test :

    A)
    With gearbox in gear and input shaft locked to prevent it turning, if you turn one half shaft does the other one turn in the opposite direction?
    – yes . (No need to hold the input shaft tight as simply
    doesnt turn) this in reverse and forward gears.

    B) If you turn both together in the same direction with gearbox in gear does the input shaft turn or try to turn?
    – No it does not turn and undetectable if it is trying to turn.

    I will go to the bitter end with this and fix even though
    I have another coming in a weeks time.
    It will be a useful exercise and may help if I can fix
    and find a place for the parts required.

    On that note thinking forward is there a place
    anyone knows of for transaxle parts ?

    #34518
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Uodate:
    – await second hand transaxle to arrive
    – emailed Murray and Hayter as to where I can get parts
    for Spicer/ dana 4450 3 transaxles.
    – still to split broke transaxle cases to investigate if anything
    obvious has shifted or broken.

    #34528
    wristpin
    Participant

    Just caught up with this thread. Forget my comments about splines – your pulley is keyed!
    A word to the wise when you attempt to open the ‘box. The two halves of such ‘boxes are often held together with “taptite” screws. That is ones that cut their own threads on initial assembly. Over time, the interaction between the steel screws and alloy castings can make them difficult to remove. Time and care spent getting them out is better that later attempting to deal with sheared screws.
    If they resist initial reasonable force a little localised heat around each one may be useful together with some proper penetrating fluid such as Plus Gas – not the dreaded WD !

    #34529
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Many thanks for advice. They are soaked in pen’ oil
    and they all seem to have hex heads.
    I mechanicallu restore vintage 70’s 80’s motorbikes
    so am armed with all necessary for stubbornness!

    Points taken though.

    Might delve into transaxle today.
    What on earth could cause the issue I am seeing though
    internally ..?

    #34533
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Transaxle casings split and issues found:

    Summary:

    Torx head bolts – were set to 6-7nm torque
    No stuck bolts or stripped threads. Good case surfaces.

    Broken brake pad metal guide / spacer (49) (as per pic)
    (dana part num 5036)

    No gasket used just remnants of instant gasket.

    Broken drive shaft at end 37 (dana part num 3997) as per pics

    Need to know:

    – spec for brake pads thickness

    – Where to get parts (Have contacted Murray and Hayter)

    Attachments:
    #34541
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    P.s :
    – could not get the casings back together to store.
    Not a fault but simply cannot get it back together.
    Has two small ball bearings too that can drop out.
    This will have to wait , be cleaned out re greased
    IF
    I can get a drive shaft for it.

    I think the answer to that is – not a chance!

    Q) not that I am going down this route but if I was an
    obsessive and wanted this transaxle back working
    is it possible ?
    Are there co panies that repair , re build or make
    de9ve shafts ?
    (I’d just like to know for when all parts si only run out
    when I am 186 years old )

    #34542
    wristpin
    Participant

    Possible parts supply. Have you tried the guy that I private messaged you about ?

    #34543
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Only just found messages . Thanks. Will do.

    #34558
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Update :

    Now fixed. Another working transaxle fixed it. 100£ ebay.
    Slight issue selecting neutral now but that must be
    simple adjustment on the nut on the bar but
    I simply could not be doing that and gonna rain
    tomorrow so had to cut.brake and clutch adjusted ok.
    All good.
    Nothing in manual anyway about gear selection adjustment.

    Thanks for help on here. Much apprexiatee.

    My broken transaxle still need to be fixed however !
    – broken drive shaft. Being main issue.

    Q) with your even more vintage machines
    when they break if no parts how do you fix ?

    You see this mower is not only a machine but a friend now
    and must be saved at all costs.
    How would you on your old machines fix a broken
    drive shaft ?

    Scrap heap surely is not an option for these old machines.

    Attachments:
    #34568
    charlie
    Keymaster

    To replace unobtainable parts there is only one option and that is to have them made, not a cheap exercise.

    #34570
    trusty220
    Keymaster

    …….or you can break another machine for the parts you need. Those are the only two options available normally.

    #34571
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Such a shame as I used to live next door
    to a retired engineer with basically a machine
    shop in his garage. He could have and gladly
    would have done made another drive shaft !
    Sadly he has gone to the machine shop in the skies.
    My go to expert is a loss.

    Have you no one in the club who is similar.
    If not one should be lured into the club by any means
    necessary ……

    #34584
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Never wanting to leave questions hanging
    I found:

    Drive Shafts

    I’ll update this when I get an approx quote.

    #34660
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Update:
    I had a quote just to update.
    6-800£ for a one off.

    Madly expensive but it is possible.

    I am sure this simple shaft can be made cheaper
    so will continue search.
    Need an old engineer with a lathe !

Viewing 14 posts - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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