Hayter 10/30 wont drive

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  • #34449
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    I have the fabulous Hayter 10/30 which i have used for over 10 years (I bought it second hand and restored it the best I can). It picks up grass, mulches and throws it out if required.
    It has worked fine for all those years bar the odd belt replacement.

    This week after cutting, it suddenly would not drive after i switched it back on after
    stopping briefly.
    Not forward or reverse. Additionally the brake does not work ?
    The engine runs fine.

    The drive belt has not broken either. (I have not yet replaced it as usually when
    a non drive issue happens it is the belt snapped)

    In any gear engaged I can push the mower forward and back with no restraint.
    With the brake on i can push the mower forward and back the same.

    This was sudden ?
    I have adjusted the clutch mechanism to no avail.

    Any ideas ?
    (Just so you know I am very familiar with mechanics and have restored
    4 vintage motorcycles but this has got me ?)
    Help …….

    Attachments:
    #34467
    wristpin
    Participant

    For a start, does it have a hydrostatic or gear drive transmission?
    When the machine is stationary with the transmission in neutral but with the drive to the transmission engaged, can you see the transmission input pulley going round?
    With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.

    #34470
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Gear drive, manual select !!!

    Update on drive tests:

    – is the pulley on the trans-axle going round with it in a gear and engine running – drive mode = YES

    – With rear wheels off the ground and in gear do the wheels engage the gearbox when turned ? = NO

    Tests to do today:
    -When the machine is stationary with the transmission in neutral but with the drive to the transmission engaged, can you see the transmission input pulley going round?
    -With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.

    One thing – as per pic the drive pulley seems to be loose ? (stock pic)
    i.e can spin freely in gear or not and is loose ?
    Is this right ? perhaps the bolt on the top is loose ? (This will
    need me to remove transaxle to get to it)

    Attachments:
    #34474
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Update on tests:

    -With the rear of the machine raise with both wheels clear of the ground, does turning one wheel cause the other one to rotate. Give an outward tug on each wheel – are they firmly located.
    No wheels do not rotate when one is turned.
    They are located firmly.

    Update on drive pulley.
    It is only loose when drive pedal on (brake on)
    When brake off (in drive mode)it is tight and belt tight which
    must be as it should be.

    #34478
    wristpin
    Participant

    Is there a manufacturer’s tag on the transaxle . Looks like it may be a Spicer ?

    #34479
    alan
    Participant

    Just for info, there are handbooks and parts lists to download on the Hayter website;

    https://www.hayter.co.uk/handbooks

    #34480
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Thanks yes i have the manual … heriatge hayter code 130s

    Transaxle:

    Yes it is a spicer.
    pic attached

    (It looks simple to get off the transaxle….. the issue i fear is what
    on earth is wrong with it and how would one know looking at all the cogs that will be there.?

    Do you guys think it is as a item within the transaxle ?
    I could find another and then look at mine at leisure (with your help ……..)
    (The mower is more to me than a mower you see but now a family friend)

    Attachments:
    #34484
    wristpin
    Participant

    The simple failure is that the input pulley has stripped its splines and is turning without turning anything within the trans axle. It still means splitting the ‘box to replace it – I think . Although I have seen them welded as a quick get out of trouble.
    Unfortunately I left all my transmission data and parts books behind when I sold my business in 2012. The business was subsequently closed and all that sort of thing got binned.

    #34485
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    When you say input pulley is that what I see as the drive pulley ?
    as per in pic.

    splines in the pulley or the rod it sits on (clearly needing transaxle splitting) ?

    I can have the transaxle out tomorrow (I am expert at managing old stuck bolts …)

    Unfortunately the manual does not delve into the transaxle so
    as you inform parts may be an issue.

    I am considering buying a second hand one and fitting and sorting
    this out at leisure..
    Not being a mower engineer it may be wise for me to buy another
    second hand working transaxle ?

    Attachments:
    #34488
    wristpin
    Participant

    Yes the pulley that inputs the drive to the box. If the shaft does have stripped splines, just check that it can’t be changed without splitting the box. On many of the Tuff Torq boxes that we used to distribute that shaft could be changed with no other dismantling.

    #34489
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Many thanks …… what a site this is .
    I cant tell you how thankful I am.

    I will remove the transaxle today and investigate.
    I will update the post.

    #34491
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Update.

    Transaxle out as per pics. (pics reduced for site convenience)

    Jacked up on tow bar, wheels off , brake and clutch disconnected from rear pins,
    drive belt hooked over pulley, 4 bolts holding transaxle – now off

    – if i put TA (Transaxle) in gear on bench and turn axles A and B they turn the other
    side respectively. BUT not the drive pulley. that remains stationary.

    – the drive pulley is made to pull off after removing a (circle hlding washer – cant think of the word) so the pulley itself is ok.

    – When in gear , drive pulley on, and i turn the drive puller i can see for the smallest amount
    of time the axles move for a millimeter but then stop and the pulley moves freeley.

    So that is the analysis …… it must now be internal.
    I will gunk down the TA and spray the bolts with pen’ oil and will consider
    going deeper.

    But I think i can find another for 100£ which may save me for now.

    Attachments:
    #34496
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Update:

    I have bought another transaxle (100£) , the same for sure,
    so can sort this transaxle at leisure.

    So this thread continues in two branches.

    I’ll split the transaxle I have and see
    what the input rod thing is doing.
    Does that sound like a plan ?
    (Without your help I’m finished !!!!!)

    #34505
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Old transaxle external drive pulley components:

    As per pics but a washer and a key to stop pulley rotating freely are worn.
    Not useless but worn to almost non functionality.
    (Not the reason for this drive problem)

    found a online parts diag for a transaxle – Spicer dana 4450 3
    pic shows input shaft

    Attachments:
    #34512
    charlie
    Keymaster

    With gearbox in gear and input shaft locked to prevent it turning, if you turn one half shaft does the other one turn in the opposite direction? This will confirm halfshafts and diff are in good order, no major failure.
    If you turn both together in the same direction with gearbox in gear does the input shaft turn or try to turn?

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