[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s a JAP, serial number: S80/G/4989/40.

[vhgmcbuddy]

maybe the memory is playing tricks, I have just been thru most of my brochures,
and could only find a Gem / Bantam brochure from 1951,
with dealer stamp in top right, Holttum 408 Cherryhinton Road.

Thanks for the background on Mr Holttum, very interesting.
cheers Rod.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

trusty220: can you please check the full name of the company you refer to as a very active machinery dealer, reason being I have a Howard brochure with a xx Holtum xx etc dealers stamp on it, sorry I don’t remember what the brochure item was, so can’t find it easily, but the name caught my eye at the time I got it, so I checked the names, it only has 1 T, quite different to the maker of the 3rd wheel conversion with 2 Ts. thanks Rod.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie will contact Stuart Johnson

Regards Ovako

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’d guess by 1963 Howard had stopped production of the 700, probably explaining short run of the conversion.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie
My copy arrived today, renewed membership online and also downloaded and printed the Calendar great idea Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone Dave

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the responses. I’m planning on taking the cylinder head off this winter to finally change the head gasket. I’ll take a look and see how the repair is holding out.

As it happened in the summer I needed a quick fix before the lawn grew too high!

[vhgmcbuddy]

As you have surmised, a loose valve seat, not unknown on Briggs engines that have overheated . Providing that the machine has not been run in that state for too long and the seat recess enlarged too much there is a procedure for recovering the situation, which if carried out to the letter should provide a permanent solution. The procedure is covered in the appropriate Briggs manual which is not expensive but does advise the use of one special tool, a valve seat cutter to ensure that the re-positioned seat is concentric with the valve guide. However, if the centring advice is followed exactly you can usually get away without re-cutting the seat.
The appropriate manual for your “L head” (side valve) engine is part number 270962.

EDIT. Should have watched all your video after the discovery of the loose seat! Lets just say, not by the book but sufficient for your purposes!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I am genuinely amazed at your knowledge of such obscure machines.
Im a general trader and wish to sell it, any idea on value?
I have never bought one before but see similar regularly.
I can get pictures and post on here to see if there is interest a couple of days before sale, most of the sales I go to are not online.
If there is a spares machine or something I can buy and just strip the bits needed, post at cost and a drink for me. I’m not greedy but will expect a profit on the good stuff!
Many thanks
David

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m unsure I don’t know about them
Thanks
David

[vhgmcbuddy]

Out of interest, what “acid” are you using?

[vhgmcbuddy]

How i can fix it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well,here goes,the first engine that Power Specialist used was villiers,A Bux is a villiers under license to Power Specialists, in the first couple of years,then part of the licensing fell away,so that the latter ones,had different parts attached.
A nowadays term for these engines could be classed as badge engineered
You mention Ransomes,They have a long history of badge engineering.
The first engine which was badged was the Simms way back in 1905,this became the Orwell (derived from the river that runs through Ipswich.)
I suspect the engine you are talking about is the Ransomes 4 stroke which appeared on the Mk 10 Motor Mower or on the MG Tractors.This engine was originally a Sturmy Archer,then a license was bought by Ransomes.
Ransomes also badge engineered binks carburettors.
To give another licensing exercise
Atco
Chas H Pugh made under license,Senspray carbs, and also Claudel Hobsen carbs
Hope this clears your head
Kind regards
Andrew hdtrust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Early Lasers had Koehler engines, so the starting point is to determine what you have.
If the engine is cranking but not firing the plug the first step is to isolate the engine from the machine’s safety switches etc which could be “saying unsafe to start”.
This is where some engine info is needed as it’s necessary to identify the “ kill wire” that connects the engine’s ignition system from the machine’s key switch ( ignition switch) and the machine’s safety systems.
Once identified and disconnected it can then be determined whether you have an engine fault or a systems fault. NOTE If it’s a safety systems fault, with the kill wire disconnected, the engine will start but turning off the ignition key won’t stop it.
If, with the kill wire disconnected there is still no spark, you have an engine ignition system fault. If the engine is old enough to have a points ignition system, dirty points are the possible culprit. If it has an electronic system, life gets more complicated !

[vhgmcbuddy]

That bushing with 86-3519. Villiers used 86 and 87-xxxx numbers for quite a few parts, including the crank oil seals on F15s,but on the other hand they may have been their suppliers part numbers. Probably in the 80s I did a complete overhaul on a Monro- Tiller which included having a new axle machined up from scratch and the chap doing the machining for me consulted some tome and found that a Lister bushing ( little end, I think) was just what was needed for replacing those in the MT hull.

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