[vhgmcbuddy]

thank you. But would someone tell me how to stop the engine? Up to now I close the fuel tap and wait for the carb to be empty, but there must be a more convenient way, am I wrong?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Received diagram with thanks via email. Myn appears to be slightly different to the diagram as it doesn’t have a coil as shown (has a magneto) and myn has 8 fuses as opposed to 4.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Much appreciated. Does the manual have a wiring diagram. My email address is Garybowers@btinternet.com

[vhgmcbuddy]

Finally… but I still need to find an exhaust pipe

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
I have the full Gutbrod manual, If you have not received any info please advise how best to get it to you. Tommy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Interested to see your comment Andy regarding the Howard Bantam, I have one waiting as always for restoration, It came with a ridger so when up and running, I will look forward to using it for my potatoe planting. Cheers Plonker

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ahh I thought it might be something along those lines, I’ll have a look into it. Thanks.

[vhgmcbuddy]

My father had a Clifford Mk1 in the 1960’s with a villiers Engine. It was a difficult starter especially when warm

[vhgmcbuddy]

Sorry the points opened at 7/32 BTDC not 7/16 BTDC…that would be a long way out!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy,
I have got round to doing some more checks on the Villiers 15HS engine.
I removed the cylinder Head – Valves ok – normal build up of carbon on the valves.
Top of the piston had a sticky tarry looking layer it – it wiped off with some white spirits.
The bore looked ok although as you manually turned the engine over there seemed to be a trace of oil being wiped above the piston so possibly the rings need replacing? It did smoke a bit but could be unburned fuel and carbon mix due to the timing issue?

Got the points visible and rotated the flywheel.
Points where just opening with the piston about 7/16″ BTDC so timing does seem to be out.

I have removed the flywheel rotor.
Couple of questions:
The sprung tin lube pad was missing – broken off – should I replace?
The points had a typical small peak and crater but not excessive and can stone off to make more flush.
The crank oil seal E.9718 on the parts list in the armature plate has been leaking.(picture added already cleaned oil off back plate) Is this easy to replace as the bearing needs pulling out first?
While I have the rotor off and armature plate off:
Can you advise where to get the following:
New Condensor
Sprung tin lube pad replacement
Shall I change the points?
New oil seals both mag and drive side?
Spark plug recommended – what equivalent to the Parts list – Lodge C.14?

Thanks again for your comments and advice.
Steve

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[vhgmcbuddy]

@alan
did the photos i’d sent come through?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Many thanks. I would have happily accepted your offer but I have SORNed my car. I have bought a second hand silencer for very little, if I can adapt it I will be OK, if not I may well have to come back to you. Many thanks again David

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Many thanks for that. I did try it about three years ago and it fired, it always did, but the noise was deafening and I have a funny feeling that the neighbours wouldn’t be impressed. I’ll dismantle it and clean everything out then, knowing the oil/petrol mix, I can check it out and look online for a silencer. If it goes I’ll give it a coat of paint. I have a car in bits at the moment, but it will give me a variation! Many thanks again David

[vhgmcbuddy]

We have the pair but like you say they are so heavy to take anywhere to display

[vhgmcbuddy]

When you strip off the clutch fittings you will see that the toothed wheels are seperated with cork discs, often they are rusted together, soaking them in “Brick Acid” overnight will clean them up, before you tackle the gear box internals.

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