[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, it’a a bog standard petrol tap as in the example pictured from JAPG Mowers. The turning buttom has fallen off (not a problem, I can make one). The hollow nut around the spindle unscrews, there’s a rubber “O” ring under, nothing else to be seen. The die cast body is in one piece. The spindle will not turn. It is stuck open.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by vhgmcbuddy.
• This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by vhgmcbuddy.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for your reply the link you sent just sent me back to the forum I am not sure where the info your referred to is and yes it has a lightweight 150 cci think.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Are we to assume that it has Villiers 125cc or 150cc Lightweight engine ? The set up is more or less the same for both and there’s plenty on of info line.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy. Looking forward to cylinders head gasket and other parts, looks like it had a starter motor at one time

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Charlie,

A big thank you for this. Have no idea if Clifford copied the Simar design, would be interested to know. But expect they would have used typical 1930’s engineering methods that would have included leather and felt oil seals. From the parts diagram and list can see the Simar has both. Once removed from the machine, would be a simple job to cross reference them with modern seals to see if one would fit. Failing that, I was going to use some neoprene sheet material.

Do you know of the spring tines on the Clifford are the same as the Simar’s. It was about 35 years ago when I contacted Chester Hudson who had them in stock. There was some discussion about either a 5/16” or 3/8” size was required. Had a couple broken and worn, so just replaced them. Wished I have got a couple of spares too at the time.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Charlie,

That would be great. Have a Clifford Mk IV and a manual which I think has an exploded view of the machine. But the Mk 1a is a very much cruder piece of engineering. Believe the Clifford factory made parts for the MoD in the war and probably rushed to get a roteo on the market soon afterwards. The Jap 5 engine was made in 1948. So do not have a clue if the oil seals in question are the same for both models. In all probability think they would have been improved upon. Be good to know how to take it apart and what the fix is for the leaking problem. Suspect the ID and OD of the original seal may not have a modern equivalent.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Norman,

You may be able to help me. I bought my Clifford 40 years ago and got a Trusty at the same time. A chap was giving up his ground and wanted to clear his sheds. Used both for a few years, the Trusty had the better engine, but the transmission was knackered. The Clifford was hard to start, but the hooked tines did a really good job in seedbed preparation. It had a massive oil leak where the bevel drive housing joins the rotor axles. Someone told me it was a common fault when the machine gets old because the oil seal was, I think I recall him saying, leather. Which dried out and wore. I used to have to store the machine tilted with the engine on the ground, otherwise it would loose all the oil. Still had to give it a good top it up every time I used it. I put some new tines, big end shells and rings on it, all purchased from Chester Hudson. Then moved and put it away in a shed, ready for the day I had the time to carry out all the repairs to make it a reliable machine again. Two years ago my Trusty Jap 5 engine blew the big end. So I took the engine off the Clifford and made one good engine out of the two. Still have another spare engine, so the plan was to fully re-build that one and fit it to the Clifford.

Where you can help me is with advice about the dismantling of the rotor axles and what I should expect to find in the way of oil seals. Then how to get the parts to fix the problem. Like yourself, am in no rush to do this. At the very earliest it will be a couple of years before I get round to doing it. Have another couple of working rotovators I have done up, so there is no pressure to fix the Clifford.

It was a right old beast to use, no throttle, just the governor to regulate the engine speed. When you pulled the dog clutch handle to engage the rotor you had to do the same for the drive with the next movement of your hand. Otherwise it tried to jerk out of your remaining hand on the handle bars. Was younger, fitter, stronger and quicker back then and it still took some effort to use. Remember I could not get it to start one day with single swings, so kept winding it up as fast as I could. It fired, the handle came out, swung around and hit me straight in the mouth. There was blood everywhere. All good fun though.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Grahame
thank you for the reply i am a little slow on the computer and i do not look at things every day. took 4 hrs to get the tiller gear apart seized solid it only has oil felt washer only and i do not think it has oil in with the drive?
thanks again there is no rush
kind regards
Norman

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,

I have the same machine in its original colour. Have taken the engine off, so some non faded paint is now exposed. Will take a photo so you can colour match if you wish. But this may take a few days, the machine is buried at the back of a shed. Some experts in the club may be able to help with the exact colour from a previous restoration.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Roy,

There is not much to them, so expect you will be able to work out what goes where quite easily. But if you do get stuck, send a photo and I will try to help. Can dig my machine out and take some pictures of a particular part if you wish. The throttle linkage is a bit crude, the chains are very slack and the gearbox is full of false neutrals. But it still works very well for light skimming. It does struggle on hard ground or with big weeds.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Graeme
MY mistake – it IS a JAP model 2A
Thanks for offer of photos too – We will look at all of the bits in the box tomorrow. We are pretty competent with putting stuff back together BUT some things have little quirks or MUST do’s on assmebly and that’s what we were a bit worried about ergo getting hold of a manual
Regards
Roy W

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Roy,

I have the same machine in original condition that I still use for row cropping. I do not have a manual, but can take some photos of any individual parts of the machine that you are unsure of, if this helps. Think you will find the engine is a JAP 2a, not 1a.

Find the Colwood a joy to use, much easier than a Planet type push hoe that would be the usual alternative. You can go very slow in 1st gear if you want to be very accurate and get close to the crop. Or nip along in 2nd. The clutch on mine sticks after it has been left for a few months, but rocking it back and forth soon free’s it. Had always assumed the steel wheel was fitted as standard on the eariler models and the rubber tyres to the later ones. There are many experts in the club with access to documentation that could clear up this point for you.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Paulr,

Its a bean seed planter, used for sowing larger seeds individually. Do not know the make though. Have little experience of them as I have never used or worked on one. Hope this helps.

Best wishes,

Grahame

[vhgmcbuddy]

Updated photo

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi thanks both for the help. Tmax, eBay is normally my first go to and I did come across those needles with the grooves but they didn’t look right. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Andy, thanks I’ll reach out to villiersparts. Cheers Dan

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