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December 31, 2020 at 6:00 am #36288
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI used an Allen scythe in the late 60’s with another man to cut canal grass from Braunston to Coventry, but you don’t say what sort of work?
December 29, 2020 at 2:00 pm #36269
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterA date would be lovely,nice to learn machinery history👍
December 29, 2020 at 1:57 pm #36267
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDecember 28, 2020 at 9:05 pm #36265
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi do you still have the rotavator?
December 28, 2020 at 8:52 pm #36264
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThere is not a lot of information on them either?where they not popular?are parts still available?many thanks
December 23, 2020 at 3:29 pm #36246
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterCrazy situation but nothing we can do…
December 23, 2020 at 1:21 pm #36244
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks Charlie. Did not know this supplier as I used L&S. Head gaskets are cheap indeed and it is easy to get them.
One of my reasoning is that I will export this engine to Africa, where I’d like to use it to power a pump or a generator. Getting spares will become much more difficult, so rather learn (before I go there) how to keep this engine running with a minimum dependence on imported spares.
Also like the challenge that comes with it. From my reading/viewings, if the copper gasket is made properly, it could easily replace a factory one, espcially for side valve engines But may be there are risks, specific to this engine or you would have a different experience to share?
Cheers
JeffDecember 22, 2020 at 8:42 pm #36239
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks Andy, for your quick reply. I am scared that with Brexit and now COVID, it will take for ever to get spares from the UK.
December 22, 2020 at 6:56 pm #36231
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterNow, with a picture with all the bolts. The red ones are the ones that were not on the engine.
So right now, I need to replace my head gasket and here is what I’m thinking doing: make my own head gasket using a 0.5 mm copper plate, that I will anneal prior to applying to the engine.
What do you think?
I am currently working on the tin wear and the tank: removing old paint so as to be able to apply new primer + paint. I will only re-assemble the engine with it’s 8 bolts, so when the tin wear is ready.
I fixed the leaking tap by making my own cork replacement (after watching a number of videos on the topic. Even have a spare replacement cork if needed).
Will let you know how things are evolving.December 22, 2020 at 6:42 pm #36228
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterWhen I did re-assemble the engine, I did not have the F15 manual, that you shared with me Angus. I used my little knowledge to tighten the head bolts with a torque wrench and in a cross pattern. However, I only had put back the 5 main bolts, which are also shown on the F15 manual.
I had not put back the 3 other bolts, which I thought were only there to hold the tin cover (cooling cover. Is it called fairing?).
Picture to illustrate:December 22, 2020 at 6:34 pm #36226
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDears
Let me give yo a little update.
Engine was working fine. I had it to run on an external small tank, in order to adjust the carb and check leaks etc. It did work well until…it stopped. When I tried to start it again, it had lost compression. Got scared one valve was gone. After checking, it was not any valve but…the head gasket.December 19, 2020 at 9:26 pm #36206
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDecember 18, 2020 at 9:12 pm #36198
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterGood evening Mr Sprayerman,hope you are both keeping well, Yes you are one person who would have cracked my quiz in record time!Hows the gardening doing?
Kind regards
AndrewDecember 10, 2020 at 5:05 pm #36147
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi I have a M1 rotorvator with a Briggs engine starts and runs fine if you put petrol in the carberetta but it won’t start without putting it in???
December 8, 2020 at 10:33 pm #36141
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterOrrrrr…..
make shaft bar the spline?
and we find a spline person ?let me see what this spline drives and if I can do without it …..
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