[andyfrost]

HS being the later version ,Villiers effort for a shade more power, all HS models should be timed 1/8″.In reality as far as I’m aware there is no difference between the standard model and the early HS models as far as internals are concerned , later HS were fitted with the later style of flywheel and magneto.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Angus , being fitted with the s12 carb would mean it’s a later model , hence 1/8″ timing.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

It may be “process of elimination” check the timing is correct. It’s far better to remove the cylinder head to do this , the points should just begin to crack open at 1/8″ BTDC.

Andy

[andyfrost]

It’s always hard to say without actually being there , but from your video it does seem to me like a timing issue.
In your ownership has it ever ran OK , or are you the new owner.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Any reputable garden machinery dealer should have a proper tester , try to go for one that’s been in buisness for quite a while , most modern upstarts know next to nothing about coils and condensers.
Spitting and banging is quite often incorrect timing thoroughly check it.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Couldn’t get that link to work , first and foremost would be to get the coil and condenser PROPERLY tested , and by that I don’t mean wasting ones time with a multimeter.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’m fairly certain that is a variant of the 4/5 Carb , which was unique to Atco(I’m not 100% on that , but have never seen it on any other machine)
It’s a very simple carb to work on and get clean , which leads me to suspect you have an ignition problem , either timing , or coil/condenser failure.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

To me it looks like the drive system from a Ransomes Multimower.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Nice to see another machine saved , and going to use. It’s only the modern Howard orange that is bright , originally 350s had what I would say was a semi-gloss finish.
George at Villiersparts did have some ID plates , worth checking if he has any left.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Before you go about removing the flywheel(which will involve re-setting the timing) , just remove the circular brass points cover and thoroughly clean the points , you may just be lucky if it’s been standing awhile that the points have a covering of corrosion. This can be done without removing the flywheel.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I would agree with Charlie , only my personal opinion , but I think it is ridiculously overpriced , as has been said carefully no mention of any issues , or whether it actually runs.
Having said that , it is ultimately the current market and what some folk are prepared to pay that controls prices. Due to recent events with more people going into growing their own prices of all types of garden machinery have hit very high “false” prices , and I suppose we must understand some are seeking to take advantage.
Unless you have heavy clay type soil that really needs ploughing and standing over winter , I would just settle for a good quality rotavator.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

From memory there are 5 positions , it should (as a starting guide) be in the 3rd or 4th grove try it and go from there.
One point I have overlooked , is the manifold butterfly free and working.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Steve , there is no main running jet , adjustment is done by altering the height of the fuel needle , slip the holding circlip out and lower the needle by one notch.
Incorrect timing will cause poor running , but we must try to help you eliminate one problem at a time.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Before you even think about removing the flywheel , THOROUGHLY go over your carb again , check the jet and its passageway in the bottom of the float bowl , these have a nasty habit of corroding badly. The mixture jet is for tickover only , main running mixture is achieved by raising/lowering the fuel needle

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Geoff , one tip , make sure your horsemuck is at least three years old , IMO using “fresh” horsemuck will do more harm than good.

Andy.

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