[andyfrost]

Geoff , one tip , make sure your horsemuck is at least three years old , IMO using “fresh” horsemuck will do more harm than good.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

From the last photo I can see alot more clearly that you have seen the bolt I mentioned , I was almost certain there were 6 bolts holding the sump on. Yes, I’m almost certain the roll pin just drifts out.Once you have split away the sump , and split the big end you will be able to see/feel what if any damage has been done.
Report back as and when.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Check the recess hole positioned between 3 and 4o,clock , from very distant memory the sixth bolt is down inside this hole……..it’s many years since I had one of these apart , so I stand to be corrected.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Are we talking of the small engine(around 3hp) as fitted to some Howard Bantams , if so I have one laying in the shed doing nothing. I’m not overly familiar with Kohlers.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Alan , one springs to mind among many opportunities , it was a large Ransomes cylinder mower at a posh country hall that my uncle worked on, it had started to become unreliable , I had the chance to buy it for next to nothing.
At the time it was the oldest petrol mower that I had seen , powered by an
“Orwell” dry sump engine , I did see another at the Ardingly vintage show a few years ago.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

It would appear to be a fairly ordinary Trusty Steed , not exactly plentiful , and on the other hand far from what I would term as rare , where it comes from or from whom has little relevance as to its so called rarity.
Some folks notion of rarity is astounding , there was a Merry Tiller on the site recently that was claimed as being rare , built in 1948 , and was supposedly on of 48 to have come from over the pond !!!!!.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

True , and due to the ridiculous prices they ask , these breakers will not sell half of it , eventually alot of these parts will be lost/dumped , the end result being another machine that sadly will never see the light of day again.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

“Well Sir my Dad is the Editor for the Telegraph!!!” …….. and he doesn’t spell “fround” like you do.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Geoff , I take it that you have been through the engine internals , that engine , and the later variant had a reputation for big end problems.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Yes , the seals are all the same in the small “centre drive” howards.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

The seals , which are a special type are available on the well known auction site , albeit rather pricey. It would be worth calling Paul Childs at Meetens , they may have the elbow you require , failing that keep an eye on the auction site for a secondhand one.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Glad to hear you’ve cracked it , it’s just what this forum is for……helping one another.
I always time Villiers engines with a Vernier , the marks were stamped on at the factory when new in pairs , after 70 odd years very few are totally original , with the Vernier method you are eliminating any doubt.
Keep enjoying it and above all else stay safe.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Your points gap should be between 12 and 15 thou.
Do you have access to a vernier gauge , if so , remove spark plug , and reset timing so that your points just begin to crack open at 3/16″ before top dead centre, without Mr Googles help I’ve forgot what 3/16 equates to on a vernier. ALWAYS re-check after you’ve fully tightened the flywheel.

[andyfrost]

In image 12 the insulating washer appears ok , it’s the fibre one under the brass nut that tightens your points in place , you will notice it’s missing in the pic with the screw tightner.
Did you check the insulator bush under the points , it’s a tiny fibre bush , sometimes it comes out on the points when you remove them.
It is possible that you have a duff coil , but IMO highly unlikely , I would go as far to say that the modern coils supplied by reputable dealers such as Villiers services , are better than the originals , unlike the Chinese rubbish that I wouldn’t bother wasting money on.
I think it far more likely that you have a wiring/insulation problem , also rather an obvious question , is it a BRAND NEW condenser.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

You will still get a spark if your timing is wrong , hence backfires and kickbacks etc. , and yes you will always see an obvious spark.
In image 13 there is no insulating washer,so if you’ve been trying that unit you will have no spark , and in image 12 the points gap appears way too much…….I know photos at times can be deceptive but it seems so.

Andy.

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