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Dave Sanders at Machinery Decals is your man

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Well Mr Chairman, you just dont know how close you are with your answer! You will just have to wait till the new series of Thomas in the capital, comes out! (be careful with the last bit, it is not a typing era!)

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Hello ted 20
I too have a colwood with belt drive arrived yesterday is that not amazing
Date will be easier using the jap dating list is yours a jap 2a that is what mine is hope this helps

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Just finished reading mine, though had a little trouble finding the end of Thomas’s article as starts on page 11, but finishes on page 6.
Lucky for me, I can read in two other languages which helped greatly (Cantonese and Mandarin)

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Thanks wristpin and john-e-w for picking up typing era, as you should both know better centrifugal refers to the clutch.
I say typing as it reflects both your ages!

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Heard of radial engines, rotary ( both aircraft and automobile) but never a centrifugal engine – hope that someone explains.

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Sounds to me as if the valve in the fuel pump is stuck it should stop pumping when resistance from needle valve shuts off.

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Thanks for your help with dating info, I believe the mower was originally used in the grounds of the local university

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Dear phillip-s
This is going to be your lucky day! And a free ident from The Hall & Duck Trust

Your Ransomes MK 10 No B3413 is a 20 inch machine, You are correct to say the mark started before WW2,infact the first Mk 10’s came into production at the start of 1936.All Ransomes motor mowers had suspended production in 1940 except for Gang Mowers for airfields, After the war the Mk 10’s were still in production from 1946 -1947 with pre war parts, there after 1947 – the end of 1949, with new parts.
Your machine from Ransomes records which we hold states B3413 was made in February 1947,so using pre-war parts.
Your engine is a 248cc RSJ (Ransomes Simms & Jefferies) which is centrifugal
Hope this helps you

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This is my Ransomes Mk10 no B3413 which I believe also dates to around 1939 and which I found recently in the next village. It is all freed up but I have not had it running yet.
I have not been able to find any original pre war mower catalogues although there is/was someone in Australia reproducing some of the older ones and I got a nice copy of a 1914 Ransomes catalogue.

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It’s a steady stream – and starts as soon as I turn the handle over, so not just engine vibration. It’s as if the pressure from the fuel pump is too much for the float and needle to hold, but not sure what else I can do to get them to seal better.

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Thanks Charlie

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posted in error

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Ideally you would use a Knock Off tool which is a lump of metal that screws onto the crank in place of the nut. Screw it fully on, back it off one turn the give it a sharp tap with a fair size hammer while either applying moderate leverage to the fly wheel . If the engine is loose from the chassis I take the weight of the lump by gripping the flywheel in one hand a smiting the knock off tool with the other – the weight of the lump is enough without leverage. Knock off tools are still available and not expensive. If you have, or know a man with a lathe, it’s not difficult to make one.
You can do the same using the flywheel nut but there is a risk.

Some Aspera / Tecumseh flywheels have three untapped holes near the centre to take the self tapping screws from the manufacturer’s puller – quite easy to duplicate with a bit of scrap and three Taptite screws used by various manufacturers for assembling machines – always save them when scrapping anything that uses them.

A selection of knock offs from my tool box – no duplicates !

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