[vhgmcbuddy]

Coil should be 100% right as with the electronic ignition we’re both bought from a Howard supplier online I’m seeing 14v at the top of the ht lead coil is wire to the armature and then on the wires what went to the condenser and points wire gets cut and put to electronic ignition and the. Ignition system has a good warm made for it onto the base of the engine all cleaned up

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes it is that style of engine but proor to me it had new points and condenser and now I have fitted the electronic ignition it dosnt need them so they arnt come nexted even with the cover off it wouldn’t spark this is the issue I’m having. Many thanks man for the reply

[vhgmcbuddy]

Am I right in thinking that your 301 has contact breaker points in a small metal box on the back of the engine with an externally mounted condenser ? If that is the case, before we go any further try for a spark with the points cover removed – the cover can short out the system.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have fired off an email to Meadowbrook and will see what happens.
Engine had no spark when I tried it so, and as I have no way of testing coils I am assuming it’s all U/S. Points are probably OK after a clean and I have seen a condensor on the Meadowbrook page that looks identical.
I will need a new head gasket as I have removed the head to lap the valves in (exh very corroded) and will also need inlet manifold and exhaust gaskets. None of these are DIYable for me. I could reuse the head gasket with some Wellseal, but the others just fell apart when I dismantled it. Other parts, like screws etc, I can source from Namricks.(exh and inlet manifold screws all butchered getting them undone). I also need a new silencer, although old one could be re-used but, it will be a bit noisy ! Airfilter is old but re-suable, it would be nice to have a new one though.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I don’t think that Meetens ever held much ( any?) Aspera / Tecumseh stuff. Also, it’s my understanding that Meetens have recently sold out to L & S Engineers. I’ve never actually looked at the L&S site for Tecumseh stuff but it may be worth a look. Another supplier worth a look is JAPG. If you are really desperate, try the USA but by the time you’ve paid shipping and UK duty and clearance charges the costs will build up.

When Tecumseh UK closed down all their parts stock was bought by Peter Elliott who trades as Meadowbrook Enterprises and has an eBay presence. However Tecumseh’s inventory would have comprised mainly parts for current products. Further more it is roughly ten years since Peter Elliott took over the stock and that will have been depleted over the years.
As far as I know Jon Cruse is the most likely source of anything that’s left and your comment re his health may account for a recent unanswered email enquiry of mine.

Old petrol Flymos used variations of Aspera, Tecumseh, Tecnamotor and Kirby Lausons, all using similar ignition parts branded, Phelon, Ducati and Scintilla – Most interchangeable. Pre Covid a beat up old Flymo could often be bought at our local collective auction for less than £20.

Gaskets are reasonably simple to make diy and I have a friend who can laser cut perfect ones, but he needs a pattern. However he can clean up a tatty one on the ’puter before producing a perfect result. I’m not volunteering his services as it’s not his main job and he has the kit for a different purpose, but there are probably others who can.

You list coil, condenser and points but are you sure that you need them ? I’ve rebuilt many Aspera Engines over the years and other than an occasional condenser I don’t recollect much need for coils or points.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Actually they are Mason jars, to them that know they are a little cheaper than Kilner but just as good

[vhgmcbuddy]

Is that where all the Kilner Jars have gone?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Takes me back to the late 50s when I bought a Lambretta for a fiver that the owner had given up on. It would start and idle but not accelerate. To cut a story short the owner had managed to get it firing at around Bottom Dead Centre. That was possible as the centrifugally controlled cam inside the flywheel had been assembled 180 degrees out. Fast forward to 2009 I visited a customer to fix her ride on mower and there was a rather sorry looking Lambretta that her late husband had used for commuting around farm. A deal was done . Seemed like a good idea to convert it from points to electronic ignition . Kit fitted, pig to start and disappear in reverse – the engine was running backwards. A word with the suppliers of the ignition kit and soon sorted – I was not the first.
All of this is a long winded way of saying what others have said in far fewer words that incorrect two-stroke ignition timing can have strange effects.
A few things that can accumulate to contribute to an issue.
Points gap. Start by setting that accurately mid way between the top and bottom figure .
When positioning the piston only rotate the crank in the running direction of rotation so that any big end wear is absorbed. If you go too far don’t turn it back which will “ stretch” any slack – go right round and compress the wear again.
Then, if you can devise a way of locking the crank it will avoid the possibility of upsetting all your careful measuring while you set the point at which the contacts open.
The traditional way is with a fag paper . Correctly set up one of the windows in the flywheel will just give you room to insert it between the shut contacts and slowly turn the flywheel until you feel it start to release. At that point it’s time to tighten the flywheel nut. Villiers used to supply a couple of designs of wrenches designed to be hit with a lump hammer to ensure that the nut is good and tight. I have to say that I don’t get on with the lump hammer and wrench, I prefer a homemade flywheel band holder – a steel strap with a long handle used in conjunction with a socket on a long breaker bar. Why couldn’t Villiers give a torque setting ?
Going back to the fag paper test for determining the contact opening point , it is a bit of a three handed fiddle. Back in the 60s there was a company called Rupert Ledger who made various bits of small engine test equipment, one being the Dy-Tone – one lead connected to the HT lead and the other to any good earth. It emits an audible tone which changes the minute the contacts open. As a bonus, a fuzzy change of tone says dirty points. The other bonus is that it’s hands free so while moving the flywheel on the crank and pinching up the nut with no messing about with fag papers one’s ears look after detecting the contact opening point.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Well Mr Chairman, I can now reveal what Thomas does in his spare time, within a well locked shed!
Perhaps you could say the feminine side is coming out!
Or the correct things to do with all the produce we grow

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[vhgmcbuddy]

It is also impossible to set the point on this engine with the flywheel in place as it is solid and the cam follower for the points is on the inside of the flywheel…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy,

Currently my process for setting timing is as follows:

1. rotate engine clockwise until top dead centre can be measured with the depth gauge on the bottom of vernier calipers

2. zero depth gauge then rotate engine back anti-clockwise until piston has gone down 5/32 (4.5mm)

3. align flywheel mark with mark on housing and tighten whilst checking it hasn’t moved on shaft

I’ve got quite well practiced at that routine now! And I have tried adjusting the timing by tightening up the flywheel with the timing mark in different positions close to the mark on the housing. Is it as critical as 1 or 2mm out?

I’ve noticed that when originally reassembling the flywheel housing with one of the timing marks on, there is some margin for movement as it slips around the backplate which the points and coil are attached to until tightened down. But I have aligned it so as the joint to the top part of the cowl is horizontal and looks to be coplanar with the intake pipe on the engine.

Seems like I’m so close but starting to lose patience with this old engine unfortunately!

Cheers

[vhgmcbuddy]

All I will say is I’ll keep you all in suspense, or is that suspend********

[vhgmcbuddy]

Some more photos for those interested:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Charlie,

Yes! that was the clip that i saw…. brilliant!…

Thanks for the alternative membership link… i have managed to make a payment so all is well..

many thanks
Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Trusty220 and Charlie….

Thanks for the tip regarding the tyres! they are not too bad but showing a little sign of cracking with age, bit like me!
I did manage to find an old youtube clip of a monro that had a trailer attached, reminded me a bit like a chariot with the operator standing in the trailer while operating the monro.

Thanks for the PM Charlie, i have replied to you.

I would like to become a paid member but on the membership page there is no mention of cost nor does it allow me to click on the single membership option…..

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