[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the suggestion – that will be my task next weekend!

[vhgmcbuddy]

The make and model of engine would be a good place to start!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Sad to see another small business go. I would think that the BRL will find a home , especially if it’s single phase electrics. I have it’s twin with me now. I also had a Hunter shear grinder in my old business, a bit fiddly to use but did a proper job. I may be able to lay my hands on a set of operating instructions if it will help sell it. ( pls note MAY) I’ll have a look in the archives.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve located and bought a new (pattern) coil for £11.26 plus condenser and points for £8.99, all on-line.

Gaskets will have to be re-used with Wellseal or made.

Looks like I’ll soon have it running !

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Phil. I’m currently having the same problem with my Barford atom leaking from the axle seals? Please could you shed some light on how you managed to remove the old seals? Cheers Ben

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your resistance reading on the primary is probably ok but the zero on the secondary is not good – a good coil will show resistance on both windings.
A bad winding on my meter will either show 0.L ( open loop ) or 0.00 for a dead short – no resistance. So the zero on your secondary suggests an internal dead short – not unusual for an old coil with internal corrosion.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Wristpin.

Thanks for the advice.

I checked the resistance between the HT lead and earth and the reading was 0

I then checked the resistance between the lead from the coil to the condenser (condenser removed) and the reading was 2.2 with the multimeter set on 200.

I also got the same reading if I applied the probes to the coil earth wire and the lead from the coil to the condenser.

Points were refitted but in an open position.

What is this telling me ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello there. You’ve probably passed this on but I’m looking for just this type of mower.
J

[vhgmcbuddy]

The HT lead is connected to the secondary coil winding. Check resistance between end of HT and earth. The primary winding is earthed at one end and the other probably shares a common terminal with the condenser on the points. Disconnect the condenser make sure that the points are open and take a resistance reading between that lead and earth.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Gas flow would certainly have been all wrong.

Timing would be unaffected however, as that is dependent on the position of the piston relative to TDC, which would be unaffected by which way round it is in the cylinder.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I will look to convert it back to points and condenser they was replaced just over a year ago prior to me getting the gem from the sound of it I have the merco unit I shall take it all of place it back to points and condenser with the current coil and see how I get on

[vhgmcbuddy]

I take it that you have fitted either a Nova or Meco trigger module ? I’m a bit puzzled about this 14 volts from the HT lead; one would expect in the region of 22k + volts from a standard ignition system in good health – that is a good belt!
The coil may have two low tension wires one to ground and the other to the points and condenser – or in your case the module . If it only has one lt lead that goes to the module and the coil is grounded via its fixing screws to the cylinder block.
The Meco module has just one terminal and is grounded via its fixing screw. The Nova has two terminals , + & – . Connect the + to the coil and the – to ground.
I would be inclined to return the engine to a standard points, condenser and coil configuration and get it sparking . Then, perhaps try the electronic trigger module.
A couple of good images showing all your ignition components in situ May reveal what’s amiss.

[vhgmcbuddy]

You were right again!
I carefully unscrewed the brass collar and managed to remove the two washers. The black one seems more like plastic than rubber and the other I’d guess to be a red fibre washer (see photo). Without wishing to trouble you further, do you know, therefore, the best way for me to make my own washers and get the source material?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve now taken it apart (see photo) and I’m guessing that the washer will need to be replaced as it allows some small movement to occur (the head can now be moved in and out by a few millimetres). I don’t seen to be able to dismantle this top section anymore so am I correct in the thinking that to remove the old washer it has to be pulled over the brass head and a new one replaced in the same manner?
PS Is there a place to purchase these washers as I guess they’ll be in imperial?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that!
I’ll try and take it apart and see what’s there.
Will report back if problem persists.

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