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December 18, 2013 at 5:15 pm #4207
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterTodays progress was to make the gaskets for the crank case and the barrel. All made and ready. Next was to remove the remaining old bearings from the roller and the cylinder. These came off fairly easy and I took them to my bearing supplier for identification. He confirmed them to be RL5’s, a double race, self aligning bearing, not something which is kept in stock these days. 4 phone calls later and it wasn’t looking good for the old Atco. He then phoned an importer/distributor who it seems holds the entire UK stock of these bearings. The downside is they are £10 each and I need 5 of them, still, they are decent quality and not cheap chinese rubbish. They should be here in a week.
December 18, 2013 at 2:13 pm #4206
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYou could try tiding up the edges of the weld to see if it has penetrated into the sump, from your photos it doesn’t look that good. But you never know sometimes we get a pleasant surprise. If by any chance it has penetrated then remove just enough to make it look a bit more presentable.
December 17, 2013 at 10:55 pm #4203
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHave made a bit more progress today. Have stripped the engine right down to the crank and casing. Cleaned all the parts and its now ready for reassembling, once I’ve got the new parts. Made a call to Meetens today to order new spark plug, lead and carb overhaul kit. Also asked about a set of engine gaskets, but have been told they are no longer available and will need to make my own. A job for tomorrow maybe?
December 17, 2013 at 10:46 pm #4201
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDecember 17, 2013 at 9:40 pm #4200
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYes ithink it is i will try this after repairing carb. thanks
December 17, 2013 at 9:29 pm #4199
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterA rough test is, with the engine running, to try and move the governor arm in the direction that will open the throttle plate (butterfly) and as the engine speeds up you should feel the governor trying to oppose you. Amongst others Both Villiers and JAP achieved governor control use using “ungoverned” carburettors by inserting a throttle butterfly into the inlet manifold -I guess that this is what you have.
December 17, 2013 at 9:27 pm #4198
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHondas crack there if they’ve been over revved. For the float thourghly dry it out then a drop of araldite works well, or you could solder it up.
December 17, 2013 at 8:29 pm #4197
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThats OK Chris I can buy her a new one…. Ouch !!
December 17, 2013 at 8:13 pm #4196
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks Angus ,so really I need to start it and see if the weights system in the engine is making any difference to the linkage connected to the manifold butterfly . if NOT then maybe the spring is to strong and not letting any slack develop during varied engine speed if its possible.
December 17, 2013 at 8:11 pm #4195
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterDont cut that rollin pin up. Wendy wont have anything to wack you with if you keep buying old lawnmowers!
December 17, 2013 at 8:07 pm #4194
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterWhat a mess!!
December 17, 2013 at 7:59 pm #4192
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterWith the engine running the internal centrifugal fly weights will try to close the throttle plate. This closing force is opposed by the tension of the throttle cable acting through the governor spring. When the two forces are in equilibrium you have the governed speed.
So with slack in the cable the throttle plate should be closed,held slightly open by the idle stop screw. If the throttle plate is fully open with the engine running It is possible that the governor arm is incorrectly positioned in relation to the shaft connected to the internal mechanism. The throttle plate being open when the engine is not running does not necessarily denote a problem.
The inability to achieve acceptable idle rpm in an oldish engine is often down to throttle spindle wear etc rather than a governor problem.December 17, 2013 at 7:37 pm #4191
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHave recently mentioned,and it shows in the video that the engine seems to run fast even when the throttle cable is slightly open. I thought that maybe the goveners may be not set up correctly. When I look inside the inlet manifold the flap is fully open when engine switched off,also when you try to lift the connecting rod which has a spring on it there appears to be quite a lot of effort needed to alter the flap inside the manifold. can anyone explain how to set up assuming whatever is inside the engine is correct.
December 17, 2013 at 6:37 pm #4190
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterNow this is something I am going to watch,sounds like imagination is going to go ballistic Nigel.
December 17, 2013 at 6:03 pm #4189
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterGood news on the carb. It has been identified as a s 19 villiers and have now also ordered a repair kit .
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