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October 4, 2014 at 2:43 pm #10265
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJust to add to the above. By similar, I mean any smallish pedestrian tractor that comes with attachments like a plough, ridger or hoe, possibly something like a Mayfield.
October 4, 2014 at 1:29 am #10262
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterIt never stops does it? it took me hours to refit the engine single handed, and then I found the Gear box has become so “Notchy” that I cant turn it quick enough to spin the engine fast enough to fire it! also the clutch is slipping, so taken the engine back off and removed the clutch and will have to fit stronger springs, the manual says 30 ft lb of torque, but that would just close the springs , leaving no movement for the clutch to release, also need to find out why I have made the gear box “Notchy” in my restoration! Ah Well.
October 3, 2014 at 6:25 pm #10257
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYes it is at present in production before December 1959 but there is much debate on the subject have a look at the next cultivator i have posted my veiws on the subject and i am waiting to here of your veiws should we move that date?
All models of tractor must have been in production before 31st December 1959.
Mounted or trailing ploughs may be used that were in production before 31st December, 1959October 3, 2014 at 5:43 pm #10256
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterrural pastimes second weekend in augaust
October 2, 2014 at 7:06 pm #10255
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks Chris will see if i can contact him Cheers Rob
October 2, 2014 at 6:24 am #10252
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks, that’s useful info, Best Wishes,
KeithOctober 1, 2014 at 8:23 pm #10248
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterBear in mind that with a ten? bladed cylinder the Auto Cortes is not a “once a week” mower. They were designed for golf courses, bowing greens and grass tennis courts etc wher there is a daily mowing regime and don’t take kindly to a week’s worth of ryegrass!
The Mag Kubota replaced a Briggs which had replaced the Sloper and has now itself been replaced by a Honda.
In my opinion the Mag version always felt a bit top heavy, but that is just my personal opinion. However I do have two Sloper engined Marquises – 18 and 20 inch, a Honda engined Marquis 51 and a Kubota engined 51 all of which give the same sort of feel as a Certes.
They are nice simple machines to work on and providing the one you have been offered has been properly maintained it shouldn’t hold any nasty surprises.
One point to check is that the two rear roller sections move individually on their shaft and are not seized and only moving as one. If they are seized the machine won’t want to turn and will scuff the turf. Freeing off a seized roller without damaging it (£250 + vat a sectional) can be a right pain – I’ve just done one as the attached images show. Also recutting the grooves on worn smooth roller section!October 1, 2014 at 3:58 pm #10242
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Ray,
It might have been but wasn’t! Seen references to it on many US sites but the one that I had in mind was the Mechanic in a Bottle which is being distributed in the UK by Rochfords. Had a chat with them yesterday and it seems that the “cure all” product will be freely available Over the counter but the fuel test kit will only be sold as a merchandising package to participating dealers.September 30, 2014 at 8:44 pm #10233
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterSeptember 30, 2014 at 5:44 pm #10231
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAhhh very interesting my series 2 is the same as this, so at least that answers that question of if I need new linings then!
September 30, 2014 at 3:04 pm #10230
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe U/S tank is certainly a useful addition to the carb cleaning armoury. When I had the business we were an early adopter of U/S cleaning and I believe can take the credit for introducing it to Briggs UK.
If anyone is considering buying one I would advise going for one with a heater and if using a basket for the parts a stainless steel mesh one absorbs less (8%)ultrasonic energy than the plastic equivalent (30%). That info came in the instruction book for my present 3ltr domestic tank which came with a plastic basket but when I enquired about a stainless one the suppliers said none available! Struck me as a bit odd. Anyway I found a suitable ss one in a cookware shop!
A useful tip that I was given is that when cleaning carbs, split the cleaning time into two or three and alter the orientation of the carb in the tank between sessions – helps shake the loosened crud out of any blind drillings etc.
When I was learning the trade “way back when” we were always told not to poke bits of wire etc through blocked jets and you can still see this repeated in older workshop manuals. However, four or five years ago when Honda were having horendous carb issues with the Vee twins fitted to Coutaxes and Westwoods etc they came up with a “Dr Carb” cleaning procedure and together with the detailed instructions came a pack of wire probes!September 29, 2014 at 5:36 pm #10226
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks guys, there are some useful tips here. The link from Wristpin is especially informative.
Looks like I will definitely have to strip the carb again and pay especial attention to the float height and replace the emulsion tube. A previous owner had bent it (guess how !), I straightened it as best I could but it looks like I should replace it, although replacement cost in the UK is a bit on the high side.
All good fun !
September 29, 2014 at 12:13 pm #10224
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThat carb is officially known as the Two Piece Flow Jet and came in three sizes.
Even when new and unmolested they could be a B****** and fuel pooling in the throat is quite common.
On my Landmaster cultivator more than one pull on choke is asking for trouble!
If you Google Briggs Two Piece ….etc there’s a lot of useful stuff but beware of uninformed diy Youtube stuff!!These could be useful
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_medium_two_piece.aspOn older carbs two things to watch out for are – warped flanges between top and bottom halves – often the result of over tightened screws – allowing air leaks.
Internal leaks where the emulsion tube or nozzle screws into the carb , again possibly due to over tightening or corrosion between the brass nozzle and alloy body. The fixes for this include using a modified spare nozzle to carefully lap the seat or using the teflon washer from a Vacu or Pulsa Jet repair kit on the tip of the nozzle to seal it.(Pt No 391413)This link to the now defunct PER forum explains the repair process
https://www.perr.com/tip9.html
Just glad that I don’t see the small, medium and large Two Piece Flo Jets much now!!!September 28, 2014 at 6:51 pm #10219
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterSorry should have said replies,thanks to you both
September 28, 2014 at 6:36 pm #10218
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterMany thanks for your reply
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