[vhgmcbuddy]

That sounds the likely answer maybe the diaphragm has split

[vhgmcbuddy]

All fixed…while up doing safety boat duty I took my tools…..some days are Luckier than others..I found the grub screw hole actually through the Pully V where the belly runs, took a small Allen key to see if anything was in the hole….it located, was right size, one nip and all sorted….

….how many times have we fiddled and struggled, well today was payback, two mins and all fixed….thanks guys…

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[vhgmcbuddy]

It was not the fan bearings! When I started the MG2 today for a bit of late afternoon bog wallowing to extract some fire wood, the alloy fan drive Pully fell off and got mangled by the rotating clutch. Photos below…..

Pully on my other MG2 is cast steel, smaller too…..any idea which one is the correct one….or in those metal short war years it was a matter of what you could get (1941 is best guess at manufacture date)….

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Problem solved, the clutch was not disengaging fully. Thanks Charlie

[vhgmcbuddy]

Drain off some oil and it smell of petrol
Tried running the engine but the oil level started to rise
Starting to wonder if fuel is leaking at the fuel pump into the sump
Any one got any ideas

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi thanks I will drain some oil of and see if it smells of fuel

[vhgmcbuddy]

Alec
If your tractor has not run for some time it may be that the crank shaft chamber has collected a quantity of oil which now you are running the engine is being drawn out by the scavenger pump and fed back into the oil tank. This should stop when the chamber is empty. Take a sample of oil out of the tank and see if it smells of petrol to check if it is fuel related. Is it just the hose to the air filter that is in poor condition if so Neil Jarrett carries a stock of these.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Do you have any spare parts for these machines?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looking good, I see the sheep were interested.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, have you checker in the rotor chain case. With engine stopped and the rotors in drive, have you tried turning the rotors by hand.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Whereabouts are you located ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s quite a restoration job you have there. I look forward to following your progress. What state is the engine in?
Rob

[vhgmcbuddy]

I ve just spoken to penine oils and they advise their “Unipower 20w” oil which has high detergency at £48 per 20l! This is a bit dearer than your price of 24p expeatfarmer!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Gents. I am getting back to you to inform that I have finally found my muffler (have actually bought 3 pieces when last in the US in March) but had to weld a 1″ steel pipe to get it to fit where it should on the exhaust part of the engine (the other end of the pipe was threaded to match the muffler’s end). Thank you all for your help and shared documents.

I am asking for one little additional information concerning the long belt that connects to the rotating cutting deck (there are 2 blades) via a set of 2 at the front and 2 at the rear poulies. The young neighbour who cuts my grass must have hit a tree stump and the belt snapped/got shredded and came off (I also think a bit came off).

Questions if I may:
– What is the length of this belt ?
– Anyone got a sketch of how to fit the belt back on the tractor?

Thanks again, your help is appreciated.

[vhgmcbuddy]

So I checked the needle and it was set at 2.5″
I adjusted it to 2 3/8 and when started it was VERY smokey and wouldn’t start, so I suspect too rich. Perhaps it should be somewhere in between. I will try splitting the difference, but that extra 1/8 does seem to be most of the travel in the lean-wards direction.

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