[vhgmcbuddy]

The only way to get them of when they are seized / rusted on the threaded shaft is to use a pin punch and a hammer.Naturally this destroys them but as you are fitting new ones is does not matter.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi James
An overhaul kit for an Amal 356 is basicly two jets and possibly a fuel control needle and float all of which are available from Neil Jarret. Being a fairly low efficiency side valve engine my experience is that with the TVO manifold they actually run better on straight petrol. I have one that I use any old petrol drained from machines that have stood a while.
If you want to put the engine back to original I have an MG5 carb and manifold to suit that I would swap for the 356.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Stuart.

[vhgmcbuddy]

One other question.

I run an old Series 2A Land Rover.

You mention Morris Goldenfilm SAE 50.

Can I run the Ransomes on 20W-50? As I have loads of this for the Land Rover engine..

The manual says: Heavy SAE 50…

Thoughts?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wow!

Hi all, thank you for the very helpful information.

I’ll order some fresh oil up right away. 🙂

A few more questions then!

A) Where might I purchase a new spark plug. And what type do I need? As I understand it is a short reach type?

B) Is it possible to get a overhaul kit for the Amal 356/1? I live near Burlen Fuel systems in Salisbury. Perhaps they can help?

C) You refeer to a vapourising box. I presume you mean the square-ness of the manifold?

D) Am I right in thinking that with this TVO manifold fitted I will be unable to run on pure petrol? – Might explain part of the problem…

In the meantime I shall investigate the carb jets as you describe above. 🙂

Neil, Good stuff. Email on it’s way to you!

Cheers

James

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,

Welcome to Ransomes MG world. Thats a nice looking example of an MG5 made in 1952.

Your model indeed has a TVO manifold fitted with an AMAL 356 carburettor which is unusual on an MG5 so perhaps not the original engine for the reasons Neil stated.
Regarding you getting it started I would remove the carb bowl and then the jets and blow them out. Also remove the bung in the middle of the carb on the top, then removed the emulsion tube, clean and check for spliting. If you don’t have compresssed air use a WD40 aerosol with the straw attached and spray em out. Obtain a new spark plug. Strip and clean fuel pump – the non return valve is correct. You should also check valve clearances and perhap valve condition as you get deeper into it. Check outlet from fuel tank is not blocked with rust & debris.

I would change the oil now before any starting attempt to avoid pumping the contaminated old oil around the galleries and bearings. Drain the oil overnight, replenish with new oil for example Morris Goldenfilm SAE 50 is what I use. When you get it started and run for an hour or so change it again.

Best of luck with it. You’ll get lots of help and guidance on here.

[vhgmcbuddy]

7253 dates from 1952 . Neil is the man for spares. Looks as if the engine has been changed or at least the carb and manifolds these are from a later model. Not a problem though most machines have had parts changed over the years to keep them going. Good luck!

[vhgmcbuddy]

The oil level screw is on the RH side of the chaincase (look in the area behind the wheel).To check the oil level remove the screw and tip the machine forwards (lift the handles up) so its resting on the engine platform.If oil level is correct it should trickle out the hole.Use SAE80/90 grade oil.

[vhgmcbuddy]

A few more pictures of collection.. and a picture showing the front cover off.

Attachments:

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The other weak spot is about 18″ behind the back of the machine, they usually spend far to much time and effort tinkering in the allotment shed trying to get it/ keep it going when if they (should I say I) had got something newer I have the job done in 1/2 the time. That’s a bit unfair, but you’ll see what I mean.
Best of luck.
James

[vhgmcbuddy]

Managed to get a quick look at it today. Dont think adjusting the cable is going to help as even when the cable is fully loosened its still the same. There does appear to be a make shift brake of sorts that’s meant to stop the pulley wheel but is worn. I have managed to temp fix it but needing a stronger spring I think that will do the trick.
It also needs a kill switch fitted as it nearly took off today with me holding on for dear life. I managed to get it into 1st, 2nd and reverse as well so that was good although even that is needing some adjustments as the gear lever as it keeps popping out but think I may be able to fix fingers crossed.
Is there oil level on the gear box? Cant seem to find it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Tump I am pleased to see that you have got your 700 working if you would like to see my 700 working on my allotment there is a link below. Do you have the 16″ wheels with your one.
There are about six videos showing various jobs being done by Howard machines.
By the way I worked at Howards
Wishing you all the best
Myosotis

[vhgmcbuddy]

Resolved! It was certainly an engine wear problem, with a whole raft of things working together. I think the main issue was the inlet valve guide wear. So, as in the previous post, it was bored out to the maximum (+40) because the cylinder had become mis-shapen. Oversize piston and rings provided, and new valve guides fitted. The existing valves were re-faced and the guides reamed to fit, and the valve seats were also re-cut.

I also fitted a small end bush, using a hand reamer. It all went back together yesterday and started well.

Looking back on the many years of frustration with these beautiful old machines, I regret never having done this before!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like a great project. Very tempting but wrong end of country, lack of space, and too many other projects means some other lucky person will have the pleasure…..but don’t scrap it, someone will save it for future…..if not I will find a home some place…..Graeme

[vhgmcbuddy]

BTW when you select reverse gear on the 300 / 350 / 352 models you have to physically hold the gear lever in its position all the time as its spring loaded.As soon as you release the lever the machine will come to a halt.Its a safety feature.Let us know if the cable adjustment makes any difference.

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