[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ll go and check the points gap again…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy for your assistance I really appreciate it.

image 11 probably wasn’t the most helpful as I hadn’t fitted the new condenser and wire at that point.

Image 12 is what I’m now using ……

Image 13 is my spare one .( is the insulating washer just a brass washer ??) or is that being daft as I’m guessing brass no isolating ?

If brass washer is the case is it the one under the condenser/coil nut ? or under the screw for altering the points ? or both??

or am I missing the obvious which is quite likely !

lastly I have put it back together with the points as per image 12 and still no spark at all…..

Maybe a chance that I have a faulty new coil ??? or have damaged it using the uninsulated points ??

Otherwise I’m at my wits ends ! but still trying to be positive rather than reverting to taking it to someone to fix !

I guess I need to find someone to potentially do a test on the coil ?? or unlikely ?

If all else fails ….
Don’t suppose there are any enthusiasts in in mid Sussex that you know of that are into historic machines if all else fails….

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve also now taken the coil back off and cleaned the magnets and piles of any grease or oil just to make sure .
I have two sets of points ? One with a new condenser.
They are slightly different ? One has a bit to tighten point settings the other the usual screw .
I’m using the one with the nut which isn’t so convenient but has the new condenser on it and an arm that is less worn in the end.

Picture of the two points below , can’t see anything obvious that’s wrong here .

Question ??

If the timing is not set up correctly initially prior to putting fan and pull cord pulley back on ?? Would this prevent a spark ??

I can test it with a drill ??

Do you always see an obvious spark ?

Thanks

Mark

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you very much ….

Well it’s definitely not the sprung dimple on the back of the coil , however I don’t remember seeing the little insulator bush behind the points so I will take it apart again and check .

Many thanks again.

Mark

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you and apologies for my lack of response . Correct condenser as above just arrived and a coil from villiers uk.
Well I’ve put the condenser in, fitted / soldered the new coil .

I’ve now got new everything from plug to leads etc….

I put it partially back together and with the plug on the engine I got a spark ! By spinning it up on my drill.

Having got really excited I put everything back together . Primed the fuel , closed the cover in the air filter gave it 1/3 throttle ..
I then had a large back fire ???

Turned it over a few more times and nothing .

Checked spark again ? And Now no spark again ??

Any thoughts …. I’ve had it apart so many times , checked points first and got the correct gap

With a new coil and condenser surely there isn’t much else to give a spark ??

Any assistance would be appreciated …

I’ve got a spare set of points and I’ve tried them too !

Almost as if the coil isn’t working again but it’s brand new ??

Cheers

Mark

[vhgmcbuddy]

earliest references I have for the Howard Inline Twin engine is 1951,
first in ‘The Engineer’
“This engine has been built by Rotary Hoes, Ltd.”
[The Engineer. (England) Dec 14, 1951 p763]

next it is reported in the Howard mag:
“The new Series IV Model ‘Gem’, shown by Rotary Hoes for the first time at the 1951 Smithfield Show, offers
growers greater power and wider cultivation.
Although new to the home market, limited supplies of this model were sent during 1951 to Greece and
South Africa. … … The ‘Gem’ IV is powered by an engine of Rotary Hoes’ own design which develops
9.8 b.h.p. at 2,000 r.p.m. the maximum governed speed. The engine is an air-cooled twin-cylinder 4-stroke
with 3in. bore and 3 1⁄2 in. stroke and a capacity of 810 c.c.”
[Rotavator Pictorial, March 1952]

sorry i cant find this issue in my scanned docs, (another gunna-do job) it is the first one, i also have the second, then a big gap up to 1956. anybody have any more they can share?

my first reference to the 360 version is 1960, as per Brian Bells book, does anybody have Howard docs for earlier date? so yes your 1951 Gem has a later replacement engine, anybodies guess what motor it had originally, the Gem was available as both Series III and Series IV for several years. as well as the standard JAP 600 single, in the USA they also had Wisconsin singles and twins.

it is hard to imagine these machines being made by the thousands, it makes it more real to see those truckloads, thanks for great article Charlie. cheers Rod.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Usually here in the US we can date them by a triangle shaped safety decal that is applied to all power equipment in the 70s-80s. The decal has info that includes the date, however that decal is missing from mine. Mine does have the Tecumseh two-cycle engine and I believe needs only a spring for the carb/governor to run. I plan to restore it eventually.
I have looked for years for a blue Flymo, without success. I have been told that blue ones were never imported to the USA, possibly Canada. I’m not sure if that info is correct though.
I talked to a local small engine dealer, now deceased, who told me that he once sold Flymos and after a year of no sales he saved only the Tecumseh parts that might fit other applications and hauled a large truckload of new Flymo parts to the landfill. Wish I had been there. I would have been glad to save him the trouble!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy
Thank’s for reply. I will put it back together tonight and give it a try.

Phill

[vhgmcbuddy]

just google for vintage pedestrian tractors.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi send your photos of your collection,even if they are made in the USA,I’m sure I can ID them for you,as I spent time in the States
Kind regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes this is only ever going to get light use on an allotment, maybe 40 hours a year. So hopefully that won’t be an issue for me.

[vhgmcbuddy]

First I got the air filter apart and cleaned the water/oil out of it, I’d checked the engine wasn’t seized before I rolled it home. There was fuel in there, and so I thought I’d turn it over with the starting rope to see if anything miraculously happened. Nothing. Checked the plug and it was bone dry. Checked for a spark while the plug was out. Nothing.

No fuel no spark so it wasn’t going to be a 5 minute fix. I thought I’d start with fuel system as it had clearly been rained on and might have had some water in. somewhere. Very rusty looking water and fuel came slooowly dribbling out of the fuel pipe when I disconnected it from the carb.

Off came the air filter and carb.

Pic 1 – Carb

It is a “pilot jet type” Villiers carbuettor according to the Villiers Mark 40 engine operating instructions and parts list I have.

Inside was not a pretty sight

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

I don’t know if those are enough to make parts for it but I can take more if they don’t make sense.
There are 2 parts to it as far as I can see. One lever shown in the 5th picture is activated when the gear selector lever is pulled back to engage reverse. It is attached to a rod which pulls the clutch in too (its called the reverse lock rod on the diagram in the owners manual). Then the mechanism reengages the clutch when you pull the reverse interlock lever.

Let me know if there’s anything else I can help with. My old mate just dropped off his owners manual into my letterbox. I think its an earlier one than the ones I’ve seen online. From my description over the phone this morning, he doesn’t have a dead mans clutch on his, it’s just same as usual, and his reverse interlock is missing too.
I think I’d be better to start a new thread on this as we are drifting away from the original one about sale price 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here are some photos of the Reverse interlock mechanism. Also the ID plates for model etc. I don’t know if its possible to date it from that?

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 
6. 
7. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

Its good to read that everyone is towing the line.The trouble is the Government is in un chartered waters,but we must keep our distance,unfortunately there is a higher percentage of older members in this hobby than young.
I read what Busman says about large items being advertised for sale on internet sites,and it is fair to say,no you cannot collect or deliver,as is not essential,but its times like these that if you think out side the box,it is possible.
I have a horticultural Business that is still working, it has to as it is one of the most important times of the year, we are working on remote sites but have to comply with Government guide lines and have the use of PPE.
Yes the supply chain for spare parts are still open but wholes are appearing,on certain parts as when manufacturers are not working,which will have a knock on effect,when this pandemic is over.
I have just come out of a meeting with a certain Mr Wallingfield!Using social distancing and our carriers.
As we work on remote sites,we have arranged to pack full size rotavators on pallets to be shipped nationally.When ready the carrier collects,with everyone a safe distance away, and when delivery is done again there will be strict instructions,where by the carrier will leave the pallet in a pre determined place, IE a driveway,which will be pre agreed.
It must be stressed,if seeds are not planted now you can forget vegetables in June on shop shelves!

[Author]

Posts