[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi

My web site is now vintagesprayers.uk. The old web site remains available for the time being but is not being updated. The 4 publications which now replace the old site can be downloaded from http://www.vintagesprayers.uk. The publications continue to be corrected and added to as new information comes to light with the latest version being August 2023.

Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here the pictures

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi

Many thanks for your comments. Without the inspiration of your web site I would not have pursued my interest in sprayers, so I am very grateful to you. My my concern is that the information I have gathered is not lost.

Thank you.

Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes the roofs of the marquees are hung up to dry for a few days before we can pack them away for the next show, good job we have very large barns where we store our show equipment

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks for the hospitality Charlies marquee is a show saver.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will I thought I would update you on the progress with the motor triple. I had it out today and cut about 4 acres it is working great and it’s nice to be munching through green healthy grass rather than the usual dry dusty stuff we normally have this time of year. Anyway I think I have found the reason for the uneven cutter heads. The two front units are clearly bent backwards from colliding with trees. The pins holding the A frames onto the chassis are both badly bent (not sure How I didn’t notice before) I imagine that because they are bent back they have caused the units to dip down as well. Not sure if I am going to be able to get them out because they are so bent.I will keep you posted .
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

A rare beast looking in exceptionally good condition complete with the even rarer “coffee grinder starter”. When I started my business in 1981 they were almost extinct and when I retired in 2012 – non existent .
Look after that one !

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s how I would expect it to be as the “second shaft” would have been removed when the engine was specified for cable operation. Your “ pre loaded” spring is the governor spring which deals with variation of power demand while the machine is working . Just set the tension on that spring to give 3000 rpm at full no load throttle. In use the governor will look after variations in power demanded by changes in soil conditions while working. Always assuming that the internal governor mechanism is working .
Before jumping out of the fat into the fire with an engine swap, perhaps you should seek some local assistance from someone familiar with small horticultural engines. It could well be that what you see as a problem is quite normal for an unfamiliar setup. There may well be a VHGMC member in your locality who will assist you.

[vhgmcbuddy]

my unit does not have a second shaft with the adjustment, it is all done by the preload on the spring, hidden between the fuel tank and engine which as an engineer is totally rubbish design anyone with a brain could see my set up would cause problems.
one has to question B & S design team, why have they got dozens of engines and types of the same power, if they designed the first one right , there would be no need for all the variations and the nightmare of identufication. seriously considering dumping my b & s engine and getting something designed better

richard

[vhgmcbuddy]

From your model and type numbers it appears that the correct part number for the governor spring is 260902, and the top no load setting should be 3000 rpm.
The 260902 is shown as still available with a retail price of £8.16 inc vat.

Section 5 of the manual, page 25 of the section shows using a simple home made tool to “ tweak” the spring anchor. A piece of 8mm rod with a slot cut into one end and an L bend to aid controlled tweaking.8

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[vhgmcbuddy]

hi
yes i think you could be right in the that the spring anchor on the throttle lever could need bending, i think the reason it is not getting full throttle is the spring is in the way.
no comments about obvious design flaws lol.
thanks for all your help

cheers richard

[vhgmcbuddy]

`The governor spring is shown on that fig 56.
Re your comment about no getting full throttle – butterfly wide open. Being a governed engine it will not be wide open if it’s reached its governed speed. The engine Type number will give the governed speed for your application. If I get a mo, I will dig out the appropriate micro fiche – and the reader – and post the correct speed later; probably between 2800 and 3000. Even with the correct spring it may be necessary to tweak (bend) its anchor to get the exact setting. It’s covered in the manual.
Don’t be too hard on BS. Their service info and training was up with the best for the industry and was free to their appointed dealers, unlike some manufacturers who expected us to pay for the privilege .

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi
thanks for the very detailed info, i have managed to get it going on the handlebar throttle , only problem is it wont get full throttle, think the spring i have is wrong and stopping it opening it fully. i have also purchased other parts whilst trying to sort this and have been definitely been sent wrong stuff, trouble is, i have no idea what the correct spring looks like or where it is supposed to be atteched, will have another look tomorrow.
although briggs engines may be reliable and sound, the rest of the design is dogshite. firstly why is the carb flange vertical making screwing very difficult, why have the throttle and governor linkage hidden behind the tank, worst of all why is there not proper drawing of how everything fits together, especially after buying the workshop manual, which is rubbish. a proper workshop manual should have detailed word description of how something goes together.
my credentials, in motor trade for 50 years , designed race engines and cars that won 3 national championships.
now i am getting a bit senile and this sort of job, i would have eaten it 10 years ago but now causes me great stress and making mistakes

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your code number shows that it was made in 82 so the post 81 manual applies .
The second rod is included in the standard build engine assuming no remote throttle. If you have a cable throttle it is likely to be as per the insert illustration as in 56. – always assuming that your machine has not been re-engined. If I come across one still in place I discard it, as it serves no purpose and is just another thing to line up. The 56 illustration is about as good as it gets and is actually a fairly good representation of the set up in the metal.
When reassembling from a tank off situation , I find it best to offer up the tank without screwing it into place and then hooking up the gov spring – just gives one that little extra bit of space . With the spring hooked up insert the two manifold screws but not tight, then the single screw at the bottom of the tank bracket while there’s still a bit of wriggle room to align all three.
While you have the tank of it may be useful to put a straight edge across the manifold flange in case it’s a bit bowed due to over tightening . If so run a file over it. I always put a smear of heavy grease on both sides of the gasket and a drop of blue Loctite on the manifold screws – keeps them snug without the need/risk of over tightening. The latest version of those screws have recessed Torx heads which are far more accessible and easier for controlled tightening.
Should just say that it would be usual to fit a piano wire control cable that pushes and pulls without the need for what I would describe as a return spring but it may just be a difference in terminology.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi, do you have a photo of the set up without the second rod with the screw adjustment as that is my layout

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