[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks @wristpin for not only the prompt reply but the excellent advice. After two YouTube videos and an hour of gentle persuasion, easing apart the starter clutch and flywheel (points then cleaned) followed by careful reassembly – two pulls and she was purring nicely! Your help appreciated.

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks for quick response. front is 4.00-12 and rears 4.00-8. ill try micheldever. pics to follow

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have plenty of experience trying to register old vehicles including cars and tractors and I think you should be fine. It was a lot easier and quicker when we had the local dvla offices but the same principles apply. Sometimes they want to inspect the vehicle but not very often. If you can’t provide definitive proof of manufacture such as a letter from a recognised owners club ( there is or was a list available on the dvla website) then you will get a q plate. Lots of people hate these but my kit car has one and I don’t care as if the mot inspector can’t tell what year it is then he can’t apply any emissions tests so it’s visible smoke only. You will more than likely get an agricultural vehicle tax category which is free,although you still have to renew it annually. They nearly always put things they are not sure about in the agricultural class, like my 6 ton aircraft tug, which also has a q plate even though it has a plate on the dashboard stating manufactured 1975. Good luck

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
From our archives it shows that John Harston Ltd, was the sole importer of the Pacemaker from 1970.
The first adverts were placed in the Hardware Journal for that year,and there was 6 models available, all the engines were Aspera,and were also backed by Aspera agents all over the country.
John Harston Ltd was at Trowse,Norwich, and 20 Golden Ball Street,Norwich.
We happen to have a mint full line brochure for 1970 in our archives
Hope this helps
Archivist
The Hall & Duck Trust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Alan it’s a ro ho I had mine stolen hope this helps

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks again..

One last thing before I invest in the Seals – Are they easy to fit ?. Can I remove the rotors and get to the seals from the outside or do I have to take everything apart and replace them from the inside.

Thanks & Regards
John

[vhgmcbuddy]

Morning all
I have just joined vhgmc….
I have owned a Gardenmaster 80 for 15 years, and always managed to keep it going (More easily after fitting a fuel filter to catch the rust from the tank!). It has a JAP engine.

This year I cant get a spark. Points in good nick, plug (although unlikely) changed, awaiting a condenser in the post. However, the LT winding (connected to the condenser) of the ignition coil/magneto shorts to earth. I imagine there should be several ohms resistance?

So could anyone help me, please, with:
– what should the resistance be?
– If necessary, where could I get a replacement coil/ is it possible to repair?
– Approximate static ignition timing and points gap (Flywheel has no key way)
– Is this a JAP 80 engine?
– Would someone be able to give me access to a manual/ parts list? (I would be fascinated to find out more about this machine, as I have been making it up as I go along!)

Many thanks in anticipation!
Guy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,

After looking through this thread I think I know what this is now but can anyone give me more information on this old 1970’s flymo GLE? And how do I remove the rubber handles without damaging them as I want to repaint the handle.

Regards

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks this is a real help.
I take it that a bullfinch is the same as a 200 so the seals are the ones that cost £ 16.50 each.
Brilliant website and forum
Thanks again

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m looking for the air bleed tube. I tried them but they don’t do parts for my carb anymore. I think I’m going to have a go at repairing what I have.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Love it !!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

All I can say is listen to the wise man Andy Frost !
Thank you soooo much for all your help , teaching and expertise .
It’s made my day and I will look at all sorts of things with a villiers engine from now on 😁

It runs and stops like a beauty and ticks over really nicely .

Does seem to leak fuel when idle from the bottom of air filter ?

I’ll check the float . Or just it off !!

Thanks again ….

Next to test the 110v generator that goes on the back 😊

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1. 326BD8E0-8960-4270-BB61-64CE6F7D51B2-1.mov

[vhgmcbuddy]

All I can say is listen to the wise man Andy Frost !
Thank you soooo much for all your help , teaching and expertise .
It’s made my day and I will look at all sorts of things with a villiers engine from now on 😁

It runs and stops like a beauty and ticks over really nicely .

Does seem to leak fuel when idle from the bottom of air filter ?

I’ll check the float . Or just it off !!

Thanks again ….

Next to test the 110v generator that goes on the back 😊

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1. 326BD8E0-8960-4270-BB61-64CE6F7D51B2.mov

[vhgmcbuddy]

As I know have a spark…..I haven’t checked the insulator bush under the points ? not sure if I should take it apart to check….

I’ve put the piston at TDC as is when the notch on the shaft is at 12pm

I then screwed gently the cover on which has what looks like a factory arrow marking on and I have lined that up with the mark on the backplate which is at 10 0’Clock.

There is another homemade marking at 11 0′ Clock ?? I’ve left that for now…

Once I’ve got it to finger tight without moving the shaft Ive held the cover marking tight with the 10 0’Clock makings together and tightened up the main bolt…

now as per some online instructions for starting Mk24/25c ….

Ive done as follows…..

taken out of gear by un-engaging the lever on right hand handle .
I’ve turned ON the fuel tap
Primed the carburettor until fuel spills out at the base of the bleed nipple
Closed the air filter slider ( which I previously cleaned in fuel)
Given it 1/3rd throttle

And when I pulled it on a few occasions I get a backfire and nothing else…

At least that’s something I guess !!

Sorry to be a continuous pain !! but Any thoughts …..

Kind Regards,

Mark

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Agaim !!

Well … looking properly at the two sets of points I’m giessimg the insulated washed is the one missing under the adjustment crew on picture 13
I do have it under the nut (usually screw) in photo 12

Made out of the same brown material as the large circular section !!

And then a huge thank you for the obvious gap !!
My father gave me a feeler Guate from another mower which he said should be about right ! This maybe the thing they was throwing me off.

Picture of feeler Gauge attached.

I’ve now haves that gap and I HAVE A SPARK 😊😋

I’ll now go and see if it’ll start !!

Half way there 😊

Thanks again

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