briggs 5 hp on howard rotovator throttle

[richardd]

hi newly joined , my rotovator throttle is driving me crazy. my engine just stopped and on checking the carb, the suction pipe had broken off, briggs agent said he had never heard of such a thing, was not surprised at his comment, practically every piece of equipment i get , gets this responce when i look for help.
i bought a new carb as other things about it were not good, dont know if i lost a throttle/governor spring somewhere but now my engine runs perfectly apart for the fact th throttle lever cable has no conndction with the carb or linkage, obviously i must have lost something, any ideas

[andyfrost]

Some clear and precise close-up pics would help.

Andy.

[richardd]

hi andy,thanks for coming back so soon, it is not easy to photograph as the linkage is between the integral fuel tank and the engine, i will have a go tomorroe, cheers

richard

[richardd]

hi andy
below are the photos, one shows the fuel tank with the throttle cable connected to a bracket which moves as the throttle is opened with a return spring to help it go back to idle.
the second one is difficult to understand if you are not familiar with this piece of kit, it is not a good photo as it is so hard to show but what it shows is that the governor arm has a thin rod attached to it which the way i have it set up, is the only connection between the carburettor and the rest of the machine. as i said it runs great, the governor works , it just i have nio method to open the throttle with the control lever.
please get back to me if you need any more info

cheers richard

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[charlie]

Richard, can you find the engine number, usually stamped into the cowling. This will help identify model etc and help find the correct set up.

[richardd]

hi charlie
the number is 132232-0224-01 82012707

cheers richard

[andyfrost]

I can only see one photo , we really need a good close up of your carb.

Andy.

[richardd]

ok, will get some more tomorrow

cheers richard

[wristpin]

Sounds like your Briggs man was less than experienced or just not interested !
The main issue is that there were several variations in the set up for the 13 series 5 Hp throttle / governor linkage. The main difference being between those with the throttle cable clamped to the carb on top of the tank and that clamped to the tank support bracket, low down by the engine base .
Worth investing in the BS manual 270962. Single cylinder L head manual – post 1981

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[wristpin]

I should add that in fig 56 of my last post, there is a rod with a letter A and a rotation symbol . That is for a “ universal” engine with no remote throttle. If yours has a cable throttle control, that rod will not be present.

[richardd]

hi i have already got the briggs manual and it is no help what so ever as to the relationship between the govenor and the trottle cable but you 56 pic looks like it could be the answer, it shows the spring connecting the throttle cable and the governor arm. will have another go and set it up as it shows on 56 and let you know

cheers richard

[richardd]

just thought , how do i know my engine was built after 1981

[richardd]

hi, do you have a photo of the set up without the second rod with the screw adjustment as that is my layout

[wristpin]

Your code number shows that it was made in 82 so the post 81 manual applies .
The second rod is included in the standard build engine assuming no remote throttle. If you have a cable throttle it is likely to be as per the insert illustration as in 56. – always assuming that your machine has not been re-engined. If I come across one still in place I discard it, as it serves no purpose and is just another thing to line up. The 56 illustration is about as good as it gets and is actually a fairly good representation of the set up in the metal.
When reassembling from a tank off situation , I find it best to offer up the tank without screwing it into place and then hooking up the gov spring – just gives one that little extra bit of space . With the spring hooked up insert the two manifold screws but not tight, then the single screw at the bottom of the tank bracket while there’s still a bit of wriggle room to align all three.
While you have the tank of it may be useful to put a straight edge across the manifold flange in case it’s a bit bowed due to over tightening . If so run a file over it. I always put a smear of heavy grease on both sides of the gasket and a drop of blue Loctite on the manifold screws – keeps them snug without the need/risk of over tightening. The latest version of those screws have recessed Torx heads which are far more accessible and easier for controlled tightening.
Should just say that it would be usual to fit a piano wire control cable that pushes and pulls without the need for what I would describe as a return spring but it may just be a difference in terminology.

[richardd]

hi
thanks for the very detailed info, i have managed to get it going on the handlebar throttle , only problem is it wont get full throttle, think the spring i have is wrong and stopping it opening it fully. i have also purchased other parts whilst trying to sort this and have been definitely been sent wrong stuff, trouble is, i have no idea what the correct spring looks like or where it is supposed to be atteched, will have another look tomorrow.
although briggs engines may be reliable and sound, the rest of the design is dogshite. firstly why is the carb flange vertical making screwing very difficult, why have the throttle and governor linkage hidden behind the tank, worst of all why is there not proper drawing of how everything fits together, especially after buying the workshop manual, which is rubbish. a proper workshop manual should have detailed word description of how something goes together.
my credentials, in motor trade for 50 years , designed race engines and cars that won 3 national championships.
now i am getting a bit senile and this sort of job, i would have eaten it 10 years ago but now causes me great stress and making mistakes

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