[vhgmcbuddy]

try again

[vhgmcbuddy]

try try again

[vhgmcbuddy]

try try try again

[vhgmcbuddy]

just took some more photos

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you charlie
Tha carb arrived back today got it fitted just hope the govener rod is in the right hole on the carb, I had marked it but its been changed so !!!! ,its also been fitted with a manual choke,
I have stripped the top cover of and had a look and topped up the engin oil and all the other oils i can get to, the gearbox oil filler a problem the cover has a holding screw behind the right wheel
and i cant get the wheel of, the wheel bolts are all turnig and i am having a bit of a problem getting either the wheel or wheel and hub of ,but ill keep trying. Iv had a go at starting it got a good spark and a cough but thats all so far, ill try again when the weather stops running down my neck. of to the doc now my gout is playing up again. ill keep you informed,
Allan

[vhgmcbuddy]

Some of the last Villiers engines did have electronic ignition but if on an Atco 24 it would be a recent addition as from the late 60s they had Tecumseh H50s then H60s and when they became Royales they had BS lumps. There are also some Chinese Loncin engines around badged Villiers but they are usually yellow or blue.
An image may be more use than a number, but let’s have both!

[vhgmcbuddy]

After taking the plunge and having new tine springs manufactured, it was time to fit them. Each sprung tine consists of the spring itself, two handed castings, a pivot shaft and the tine (Simar 0102). The two castings fit into either side of the spring with the tine sandwiched between them. The pivot shaft then passes through the whole lot and is secured at both ends by two 6mm diameter split pins. Six of these sprung tine assemblies are fitted to the miller sleeve castings (Simar 0103 & 4). Before fitting the miller sleeves, felt washers were slid over the driveshaft. Also, I made Nitrile rubber seals to fit between the miller sleeves and miller gearbox casing (Simar 0105). Originally, these would have been leather, but had long since rotted away. The miller sleeves are held in place by four 10 x 60mm roll pins, 2 per side (Simar 0106).
I had also managed to source suitable torsion springs for the wheel ratchet Red pawls, as the originals were missing. The new springs required some modifications before they could be fitted (Simar 0107), but this was reasonably straight forward using a vice and pliers. The Red pawls and springs were fitted to the wheel hubs and secured in place with a 4 x 25mm split pin (Simar 0108).
Another job requiring a new spring was the main gearbox breather (Simar 0109). The spring I used has a couple more additional coils than the original, but it’s uncompressed length, diameter and wire size were a match. It was the closest match available off the shelf without going to the expense of having a special made. Please note that when assembling the breather, the order of the parts shown in the manual is incorrect (my photo also shows the incorrect order). The breather disc should be fitted into the disc guide, with the spring fitted next, so the spring can hold the disc in it’s seat. This stops dirt from entering the gearbox, but excess pressure inside the gearbox can unseat the disc. The breather disc guide is held at the top of the breather body by a 5 x 30mm taper pin. The breather was then screwed into the main gearbox, complete with a new paper gasket (Simar 0110). The hole the breather is screwed into is also the oil fill point for the main gearbox.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

There’s a thick new gasket on the mating surfaces of the inlet manifold and it looked in good order, though I may well try taking off the air-filter stem and bracket and putting the air filter directly on the carb, one less source of airleaks in the inlet tract I guess… I suppose if there’s a leak there then closing the choke actually makes the situation worse as it will pull more through the leak…

[vhgmcbuddy]

I had to file the manifold gasket surface flush on my Zenith carb as they do tend to “warp” from incorrect tightening / general misuse.Im sure I also fitted a couple of gaskets just to be sure there were no air leaks.My brass throttle spindle needed building up as it was quite worn / sloppy in the upper carb body.I just soldered it and smoothed it round with emery paper strip.Works a treat :).Apart from servicing the magneto and honing the cylinder bore and recutting the valve seats no other work was needed.I haven’t used the 400 for a couple of years as its buried in the back of the shed.They are excellent machines 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Unless something has shaken loose in transporting it home. The timing on the mag hasn’t changed, The spark is easily visible in sunshine, and i havent touched the mag since I started it at the rebuilders place. Weirdly I know way more about how to set the mag up than I do about the carb. That Zenith 24T2 is hard work for me to figure out, and it is only recently i stopped thinking of it as witchcraft. There is good compression, pulling it through you certainly know which cycle is which. I’ll pull the head off and check the timing properly, i’ve got a spare head gasket at home… The carb was cleaned during the rebuild, the engine was running before it, but lacked power, when I started it a couple of weeks ago it sounded crisp, and didnt smoke, unlike previously.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have one.If you want it doing Charlie send me a PM.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Providing the compression is good and theres fuel in the cylinder and the spark is at the correct time then it should go.Are you 100% certain the ignition timing is correct and the carb is in good order ??
My 400 with the same JAP 4/3 engine fitted only needs a pull up on the starting handle and she,s away.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I was just going to say the same about the sonic bath cleaner.

Super bits of kit

[vhgmcbuddy]

That would have been me Jon.

A mate who you met in Kent the other year owns it. Not Alastair!

Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Engine is a JAP 4/3, mag is a Wipac CJ936..

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