Just saw that, Andy. But I’ve now tested condenser, which shows no reading at all. So I’ve ordered Easycap. Thanks Sean, didn’t think condenser would be so easy to get. Maybe the plough will be coming to Weeley after all!
As I’m this far stripped down Andy, I’ve decided to keep at it. Now that I know I can get condenser and coil if needed I’m pressing on! I didn’t think they’d be readily available at reasonable money but thanks to Sean I know better. I’d far sooner do the job myself if possible. Bearings seem fine. I’m pretty sure it’s condenser or coil. Jr delivering meter tomorrow so I should know more then. (I know, I ought to buy one for me!)
Peter
Thanks Sean. I’ll certainly try the Easycap. I’ve already got it half stripped down so I might as well keep going now I know I can also get the coil. Having revisited your post, I’m amazed how detailed it is. Any chance really useful stuff like this could be collated in the members download section Alan? It could form the start of a handy library of information.
Peter
Why don’t you have a crack at it yourself? I did a step by step photo guide in my 56a restoration post (https://vhgmc.co.uk/forums/topic/simar-56a-rototiller-serial-no-561621/page/2/). Most difficult bit for me was removing the drive gear, as you need to use a puller. I bought a cheap bearing puller set. I bought a new coil from The Brillman Company in the US, as even with shipping, VAT and import duty, it was still cheaper than buying in the UK, although the exchange rate was better at the time!! Coil is listed as being for a Wico C Series, but the C-Series used the same coil as the A Series.
Thanks. Alan. Did you find any reference to a gear driven Webb? I have had and do have many Webb mowers and they were all chain drive (except my Webb miniature which is driven by rubber belt !). I even have a Webb Lawntrimmer which is also chain driven (I think they are quite rare).
Steve
This Webb is interesting in that the front wooden roller shaft is actually a tube, with holes along its length and a grease nipple at the end. How’s that for design excellence ?
Also, It doesn’t have the usual Webb keenness of cut concentric adjusters. Instead, it has cast brass knobs as can be seen in the photo. These work a treat.
The last owner had it for about 45 years and he was given it after it had already had long service. So, it could be pre-war ?
hi wristpin, thanks for your reply to 30 inch mastiff mower, info, as follows j.a.p. engine, model-5 no. on engine block 19742/1f 10 serial no.mk1. ca1292 this is all info i could find. once again many thanks, p.s. all costs to me, cheers, dave.
thanks all
have snowpeaked the timing marks to make it easier to check and all still seems to be good, degreased taper every time. andy are you thinking it may not be ‘sucking’ enough? this would surprise me as put hand over carb when running and it ‘sucks’ 🙂 . still puzzled why it would get worse when throttle goes above 2/3, makes me think too much air not enough fuel, does anyone agree? still open to any or all suggestions. will defiantly get this sorted. hopefully!!!
Gradual flywheel slippage affects (retards) the timing and although it may have been perfectly assembled to start with it can end up too retarded to do any real work. I used degreaser, flour paper on the shaft to dull the finish then some Loctite. It lasts about a year before I have to redo it! Why Allen didn’t key the shaft at the correct timing only they will ever know!
