[vhgmcbuddy]

GEARBOX

Well, the gearbox has been sent away for welding and the main driveshaft is away being machined. The shaft will have a collar heat shrunk onto it as recommended by charlie but if all else fails, then a new part can always be machined.

There is little to do until I get this back but the weather has turned hear in the North of England so it is time to take a break and spend time with the wife.

Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks rollomk6, this is certainly interesting and I would certainly be interested in talking to you. Is this one on the Coleby Register by any chance? I know that one of the members has a register and I have asked him to put my details on with both the Coleby Juniors I have on it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks gents for the replies, it is very much appreciated and all well worth knowing, especially the effects on other component parts which is probably often overlooked. I’ll be looking at the FBHVC website in more detail to work out the water accumulation issue since I don’t really understand this at the moment, but leave it with me, it’s all interesting stuff to get my head around.

The people on this site certainly has a wealth of information all eager to impart on new members and a heartfelt thanks for this.

Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy, Thanks for the reply & advice. Will try Meetens. Cheers, Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks wristpin, that is most useful. It’s been something that has been bothering me about older engines in general and I’ll probably look for some additive before running my new Coleby in anger but that won’t be until next year now.

I suspect that adding the additive to a lead free engine won’t do that any harm either in modern lawnmower, but views on this will also be welcome. If I can get away with it I only really want to use one petrol can for everything.

Keith

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is now within the safe keeping of the Hall & Duck Trust,when found everything unceased except for the valves on the engine, restoration will be shortly undertaken by the Commando Gnome a certain John Dyer

[vhgmcbuddy]

Another picture of the plate of the Simar

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I think that your engine would have been produced in the leaded fuel era but unless you are going to work it hard and hot it is unlikely to come to any harm. If you are concerned there are various lead substitutes available from Halfords etc .
As well as its anti knock properties the added lead provided some protection against valve and valve seat recession – particularly where the valve seats were cut directly into cast iron cylinder blocks. However for casual use unleaded is unlikely to cause any harm, but if you are concerned go the lead substitute route.

[vhgmcbuddy]

On my travels I occasionally see a poster for a small local event, often a plough day or similar. These are often not advertised. If I see any in time to achieve publication I’ll send them on. However often they are only for a week or two in advance (or worse still last week!) I’d like to get the plough out a little bit more often, especially from autumn to spring. Others may feel the same so short notice ones I’ll put on here. If other members could reciprocate (especially for events in East Anglia!) it would be much appreciated.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here it is. Took some time to reassemble as space much more limited than on 56, so had to have carb off to access mag fixings.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie, Thanks for the reply. I’d seen there should be a gauze filter in the banjo but it was missing. Probably lost somewhere along the line by the previous owner(s) over the last 59 years and just been run without it.
Remarkably, no grot present but I thought I’d replace with an original but I can’t find one on-line (Mr Google failed on this occasion) so thought the next best option was an in-line one to prevent grot getting anywhere near the carb while I try sourcing the proper part. So still asking and still looking for something suitable for a gravity feed. Cheers, Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Wristpin,
Thanks for the reply. Nothing was engaging so I took the engine off and removed the engine coupling assembly. When I took the 2 gears off (A889 A890) the grub screws in the engine coupling must have been slightly loose allowing the locking bar (R332) to slip towards the clutch assembly and the gears to spin free. All I had to do was tap the bar back, refit the parts and cramp down the grub screws nice and tight and the kick start engaged as it should. So not as big a problem as I thought if something had worn out or broken. Cheers, Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Re your other “phantom post” – have you sorted the kick start issue. Probably just a stuck ratchet gear.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uxpmk9x71kl2e01/Villiers%20kick%20start%20ratchet.doc?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

You may have gathered from my post the other week that I got the 56 plough magneto working by rebuilding it using parts from a second hand magneto I had bought. I bought the mag as I didn’t have much success with the Easycap. Anyway, I’d also got a duff mag on the 35. As it was raining this afternoon I stripped that down, cleaned everything, replaced the condenser with the Easycap. Lo and behold, a healthy spark!
I must be learning!
Hopefully a post of the 35 running tomorrow if I have time to fit it. Just to say if I can do it anyone can, so don’t be afraid to have a go!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Mine too. Great photos and article on Weeley. I’ll be back!

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