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pic of the electric jobber

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well that’s the missing flywheel fins found, must of broken off in use and then blown round the cowling. Ending up in the cylinder/head joint 🙄

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ll probably bring a couple of SIMARs!

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Andy,
No Id plate, just stamped into the top of the handlebar no.8316GX

Cheers,
Liam

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looking forward to it!
Be good to see you again Andy. What do you hope to bring?
Peter

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie,
Well today’s events have found that is actually a gx and not an L, Jim has kindly managed to date it to roughly somewhere between August-september 1946.
Iv had a spark and a pop this afternoon but now the spark has vanished so it’s off with the flywheel for a mag rebuild.
After years of exhibiting stationary engines the plan is to have this ready for the eastern counties show at Norwich showground in march, fingers crossed.

Cheers,
Liam

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy,
Hopefully ill be able to find out what it sounds like, Its in cracking original condition, hopefully its the same on the inside. I shall find out soon enough.

cheers,
Liam

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie I have looked on the plate and it’s a villiers 12/2 the number seems to be 937d 090 I will forward a photo soon but it looks the same as the tipper with logs in it under the Wrigley section only with less paint and a little rust not sure of the original colour thanks for your prompt reply. Quin

[vhgmcbuddy]

When you have the new points and condenser fitted try turning the mag at low speed with your drill and check that the impulse mechanism is working.It should disconnect once you speed up the rotation to about 700/800 rpm After refitting set up a strobe timing light and mark the flywheel at tdc check that spark fires at tdc for starting, if the engine starts and runs it should self advance to 20 degrees. It may be that your impulse mechanism is sticking and retarding the ignition too far to start.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Sorry Niel I was not clear. This is the only Wico A Magnito I have worked with.
On other engines using contact breakers the condensers all had Alluminium casings.
Are replacements available? Also new points.
Or am I better just getting the entire thing reconditioned?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have removed the Magnito and reset the points and ran it with a drill.
I have a spark, but not as fat as I would like.
Reset the points to 0.015″ and tested again. No change.
But I did notice that the impulse mechanism was reluctant to trigger. It appears to jam against the post and requires considerable force to make it fire.
Is this normal? I seem to recall that it was easier when I refitted it to the engine.
One other thing, the capacitor has a Brass outer casing! I have only ever seen alluminium. Can it be original?
I am starting to think that a change of Magnito might be worth a try.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks! As you say rumours but nothing concrete!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie you’ve come up trumps again!
Sorry forum was misleading, chap has seen a video of mine on YouTube and keeps messaging there. He’s uploaded a short video of his plough here

Peter

[vhgmcbuddy]

Iain
I have had a similar problem in the past which turned out to be a magneto fault, just not enough oomph to fire twice. I also have a dynostart fitted to an MG5/6 engine which works a treat I fitted a pulley to the back of the flywheel and mounted the dyno on top of the gearbox. It would be a better job to machine a vee belt groove in the actual flywheel. The other device I have is a two stroke power drill with a 1/2″ chuck into which I have fitted a modified MG starter dog. It struggles a bit on the first compression on my better engines and then turns them over at a fair rate until the engine starts. This enables me to have one starter for multiple tractors.

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