[vhgmcbuddy]

What kind of engine is it?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a F80 shopmanual and F80 partslist in paper and digital format. I am happy to share them with anyone, but I cannot share my e-mail here without annual payment (to help others…)

SO, You’ll have to find me elsewhere.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Ray I have a Clifford Mk1 which is a very small rotavator with a Villiers 2 stroke engine (as was fitted to an Allen Scythe, I suspect you have one of the Clifford Mk 4 which is a much heavier piece of equipment

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Jeremy.
Thanks for that info.
Regards, Fred.

[vhgmcbuddy]

All back running again now. Looks good and I cant wait to try it on some grass verge.
Only issue is wear in the pivot pin for the cutter head, it wont affect operation too much but ideally it needs a new pin and barrel to make it right.
Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

put either nuts and bolts or clean gravel in the tank and shake it about when all rust is removed it might be worth treating the tank with a sealer in case there are pin holes in it

[vhgmcbuddy]

Making slow but steady progress with my restoration. Took the petrol tank off tonight, seems very robust though rusty. It still had some fuel in but it’s also got loads of gunky stuff in there which seems to be mainly rust. Anyone got any tricks for cleaning it out? The filler hole doesn’t give much access but there’s no other way in, I’m a but puzzled as to how I’ll ever get it clean.

Suggestions welcome!

Iain

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m guessing that yours will be the modern version as per my images. I think that there are parts and ops manuals on line but if you draw a blank I can scan mine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Wristpin.
It’s a 2001 year of manufacture so quite a modern version.
I go to collect it on friday so I will know more then.
Looks in good order but there is always the possibility of something being wrong with it.
I will keep trying for a manual but the one you sent is a good starter for me.
I’ll give her a good service and oil change before I do anything.
Best regards Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Fred

Just checked the exhaust on the seized engine – Well rotten. You will probably need to find a specialist, I would be starting with a search of the Stationary Engine parts suppliers:

The site “Vintage Air cooled Engine Spares” might be able to help as they show the BAS420cc under the BSA parts. It is likely if they cannot sort you out they can send you in the right direction.

Shame about the reversing lock. Just need to see one in place and, with permission take some photos and measurements. It is unlikely to be too much trouble to fabricate a replacement.

With regards to getting the machine aged I think there is someone with access to the Howard serial number register who can give you exact dates. I only know this as a guy I bought a seed drill had had his yeoman dated. Incidentally I see that the chap has a Yeoman clutch plate for sale on a well known auction site which could be of interest if you are in the right part of the country.

Jeremy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Jeremy.
Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the late reply.
The machine I’ve got is No 5358. Patent No. 31061/53 and 31062/53.
I have yet to start it, but everything appears to be free and moving. It does seem to have been loved and looked after.
Oils are all clean and topped up. Nice bright spark on the plug. Air filter needs cleaning as full of cobwebs etc. Fuel line working ok to carb. Pulled it over a few times, but exhasting work lol. I’m thinking a starting handle may be easier.
I believe the gentleman who owned it used to take it to farm/tractor shows, It had been owned by his family from new.
My machine does not seem to have the “reversing lock” as you say. On the handle bars from behind, “right hand is the accelerator lever”… “left hand is the clutch lever”… and thats all, so I can’t help you there.
If you see an exhaust pipe for this model, please let me know.
As I proceed, I’ll keep you informed
Regards,
Fred.
PS. Would I need an addative for the petrol, due to age of machine ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Wonderful machines and as you say, very capable – so long as you don’t mind walking or nearly trotting when in high gear! We used to buy them ex-local authority in the 1980s and they all found good homes – then no one wanted to walk anymore!
The attached scan is for a JAP engined one that predates even the MAG but the chassis was more or less the same. May be the Kub engined one had an updated chassis? If yours is similar to this one, I can do you a scan of a parts manual, but it’s possible that you have a really modern one, The Vergecutter 76 ! I did a front end overhaul and sharpen on one of those a couple of years ago – heavy going for an old b****r!
I’ve got a 76 ops manual and parts list but not yet scanned. Let me know if that’s what you need.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rjo6u2s0lxhvch/Ransomes%20reel%20cutter%20multimower0001.pdf?dl=0

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[vhgmcbuddy]

This may be of use. The engine shown is the earlier JAP but the chassis should be very similar to yours.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2d24h0qoe5uzlrk/Ransomes%20Mastiff%20Operators%20manual0001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Phil

I cam across a group on facebook you may be interested in. Called “The Barford Atom owners” group.

regards
Graham

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve bought and sold many Mastiffs over the years and was buying ex local authority MAG engined ones in the early eighties and also looked after a couple of even earlier ones with JAP crank start engines. I’ve never seen a broken centrifugal clutch spring but they do weaken over the years and the very expensive clutch centre spigot bush can wear allowing the drum to drop a fraction and bind on the back plate, preventing clean disengagement. If you clean the carb’ and can drop the tick over rpm a wee bit the clanging should go away.
Good advice re the trailing clutch shoes: get it wrong and they will grab and snatch on engagement. Definitely stick with the MAG if you can – the machine was designed around the slow idling characteristics of the JAP and MAG engines! All sorts of clutch / gear engagement issues ensued when people re-engined them with engines that demanded a higher tick over speed to avoid bogging down when the throttle was opened.
Re the parking brake. A small drum at the right hand end of the rear roller (landroll) . Don’t go mad with the grease gun at that end of the roller shaft or you will fill it up! On the subject of grease, Ransomes actually specified the use of heavy oil and not grease for their cylinder mowers. In case you haven’t discovered it there is an oil filler plug in the centre rear roller section that allows lubrication of the centre differential gears. A shaped dip stick was supplied to check the level and avoid overfilling.

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