[vhgmcbuddy]

Well, all parts have arrived.

I can start fitting the carb and throttle cable. The fuel tank is about shot so I’m going to use a plastic one to get things running, then make a new metal one as and when.

I stripped out one of the cast iron blade inserts and it’s not a big job to make new gauge plate blades if required.

Upwards and onwards

Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks very much for this very useful advice.

I will indeed look at those aspects you have flagged up for me.

Please excuse an ignorant question. Presumably this machine would have been designed to run on leaded fuel. However, that has been outmoded. Is it advisable to do anything in particular to compensate for that, though, when using modern unleaded fuel?

Brian

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you very much.

I have found out now that the machine was purchased new by the cricket club before 1980.

I am a little concerned from the last little demonstration running of the machine last week, before I arrange to pick it up next week. At very low revs, I could hear a sound rather like a bell being quietly struck, from somewhere deep down in the guts of the thing. Would you have any ideas what that might have been? It was an intermittent sound.

How much useful information can I glean from the identification plates, by the way?

Brian

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes heavy to use,as were designed for Football fields,Check the springs,within the cutting cylinder bearings,as known to wear, and course jumping of the cylinder,giving an erratic cut.
Clean that carb out,as there is more than lightly sludge build up init.
As for the MAG engine,if it runs leave well alone,they were made for running 8 hour days.I still run MAG’s commercially,on Ransomes Verge cutters
Kind regards
Andrew
HD Trust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Fred

One question for you Does your machine still have the reversing lock system in place, On a yeoman there is the clutch (normally on the right hand handlebar) and a second lever on the left hand handlebar. When you go into reverse the clutch is automatically disengaged until the left control handle is engaged, a rather useful safety feature from a time when Health and Safety considerations were more cavalier than nowadays. On most Yeoman rotavators the mechanism has been removed as inconvenient. If you have yours still on the machine can you take some pictures and measurements so that I can try to rebuild the mechanism please.

Jeremy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Fred

In my case I was not looking to restore the unit back to original but rather build what is a useful rotavator / 2 wheel tractor for the garden. When I got my first Yeoman it ha a ceased engine (I had a 2 tonne press trying to move the piston without luck so it must be nearly welded. As a result of knowing the engine was not going to work again I moved my 13HP Chonda as a replacement as they are a similar frame size to the old BSA. As I had started I did a nit and bolt strip and then rebuild with new bearings and oil seals. The only thing that really needs working on is the gear selectors as they are sloppy and will need resleaving in the future. Being a detachable rotor box I have built new tool frames to get a riding seat and home made potato planter / ridger. I am currently working on the new seed drill arrangement for the unit.

I am not sure what to look out for but the really expensive piece was the replacement clutch plate that was custom made for me.

I cannot give advice on the engine as I never got it going thought a rebuild of the magneto is probably best done in India.

You have to make the decision about the Engine and what you are doing with the gearbox. If you decide to strip then let me know, Just be careful with the clutch plate i you take the engine off.

Hope this helps

Jeremy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Found that SAE 30 classic car engine oil is best for the transmission box, 5 litres for 24 quid and it took a couple of litres. Rest I can use as 2 stroke mixture.
Rebuilt the cutter head and need to adjust the pads to give me proper cutter blade pressure.
After looking at it rebuilt I decided to add an extension to the handle as it is about six inches too low for me to use comfortably, I guess the average height of the agricultural worker was quite a bit less in 1947. A simple handle bar on up stand brackets has given me a more natural working stance.
Just ordered the last bits from villiers parts to finish the job off.
Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi.
I’m new to this site.
I started reading last week what you are doing with your Yeoman.
I’ve just purchased a 1954 (I’m told) Howard Yeoman in great looking order although not started it yet as I want to “figure it all out” first.
BSA engine No on crank case = G15458/PL/AO. No on engine cowl = 2200R?M.
I’m not an engineer, but do like to “dabble” a little, it helps keeping the coggs going round in my head, lol.
Can you give me any advice on what to look for also are there any places I can get some spares should I need them… one thing, is the exhaust is really past its sell by date.
Regards,
Fred.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thats bloody perfect geof thankyou very much

[vhgmcbuddy]

I will be thanked for all the information on f 190

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello, there is a help with a engelsk manual / hand book over the honda F190. (F 80) (e mail address removed by admin for security reasons)

[vhgmcbuddy]

Photo

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like I have a 3/4 model carb from a motor cycle. Not made for the allen scythe. So I will get the proper one for the job.

Today I rebuilt the handles, had to make three new studs as the old ones had been left slack and been bent or worn.

Repaired the clutch lever and reset it all and it works great.

Wheels are back on so we are not far off a completed rebuild.

Mick

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s great Charlie, thanks ever so much!

Iain

[vhgmcbuddy]

Charlie, that was so good of you to make that enquiry, thank you.

It’s great to put an age on my machine, I had an inkling it was pretty early.

They went on into the seventies I believe, I wonder what the last production number was.

I will be buying the carb service kit and throttle cable next week, hopefully getting her running.

I’m going to look at the cast fingers to see how the steel blade inserts are secured and if they can be replaced it worn. Thinking about a gauge plate copy of the blade hardened and tempered.

Best regards Mick

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