[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes, I’ve got a Points F15 on a Ransomes Twenty Four that’s been in the family since new and despite only being started now and again, is always ready to go.
On the subject of Villiers electronic mags and starting I have noticed that the F12s with electronics need a more determined pull than the old points systems that when all else is correct will usually fire on little more than a foot of rope.
Perhaps it’s a characteristic of electronic systems in general, as the Briggs manuals of the day make a point of saying that theirs need x rpm cranking to fire them up . X being more than for the points system – but I’ve forgotten what !!

[vhgmcbuddy]

It looks like a Ransomes with a Sturmey Archer engine of the mid 1930’s. the price would depend on whether it is running and does it have the grassbox.

[vhgmcbuddy]

We have the pair but like you say they are so heavy to take anywhere to display

[vhgmcbuddy]

When you strip off the clutch fittings you will see that the toothed wheels are seperated with cork discs, often they are rusted together, soaking them in “Brick Acid” overnight will clean them up, before you tackle the gear box internals.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I think Andy ,s Rotors are the “Finger tines” that were a popular extra to produce a fine tilth for the seed bed , The merry tiller book describes them as giving excellent traction, and they are right, they do, my problem is trying to steer the thing in a straight line. you can also get for the merry tiller special “Narrow slasher tynes” that are designed to work between the rows, using the back wheels for stability.

[vhgmcbuddy]

it seems they left that bit out of the Howard Walkbehinds Service Manual, you gunna have to chase up info from the JAP guys. cheers Rod.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

From a position of total ignorance of the job in hand I seem to remember the MT accessory sheet showing some dinner plate sized discs called “ crop guards” . Would they have any application in this case ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Charlie I’ve just upgraded my membership so I’ll pm you when it let’s me 👍

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie, I’m trying to get the missing parts but looks like I will have to fabricate them, that’s why I wanted some good pics of them to copy, I will pm you with my email address mate for a copy of the parts list cheers

[vhgmcbuddy]

being fitted with the s12 carb would mean it’s a later model , hence 1/8″ timing.

I have a feeling that the plot may get slightly more complicated as one manual with the 1/8″ timing lists a Villiers Junior carb and the other A B10 or Type V.
Is the clue in the OP’s description of the engine being a Mk15HS (High Speed) which none of my manuals cares to mention? Faced with a Mk15 minus its ID plate, what distinguishes it as an HS?

[vhgmcbuddy]

It may be “process of elimination” check the timing is correct. It’s far better to remove the cylinder head to do this , the points should just begin to crack open at 1/8″ BTDC.

My manuals dated Sept 56 and March 60 say 1/8″ and the ones dated Aug 54 and Jan 55 say 3/16″
Always reassuring !!
They do all agree on the points gap though!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy,
I am the new owner and it didn’t run at all when bought at an auction.
The carb was the issue initially with the sticking needle piston and dirty.
Now I am where I am trying to get it running better.
It would rotavate as is but the engine is not picking up or seem stable enough to me and definitely the mixture or firing is not right looking at how rich the mixture is from the coked up spark plug.
Did you notice the governor coming in on the video even with very little throttle …is this normal?
One other thing I take the air filter gauze out to see if it runs any better and it didn’t really help but noticed the oil is full of small bubbles as it’s been trying to pull in the air…is this normal?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all.

What is the correct amount of SAE 30 oil to put in 5 litres of petrol for this engine?
The manual is not clear as it shows a l- pint as a measure for 1 gallon of petrol.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Wristpin, regarding the valve gaps and spark plug I have checked and adjusted these already. The points didn’t seem to be visible through the flywheel in that there seemed to be a cover over them… I don’t recall seeing the actual points through the 3 gaps when rotating the flywheel.
If there is a cap or plate over the points…which is removable through the flywheels 3 gaps (see pic above from my first post) to get access and check and adjust the points without removing the flywheel.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Being an overhead valve engine it is easy to check the valve gaps, so do that. Then check the plug gap and without removing the flywheel, the points . You then know that three of the possible variables are correct. Should you find that the points are way out they will have affected the timing – slightly – but correcting the setting may just improve things.
With all that lot known to be correct, re- check the carb ; return it to book settings and work from there.
If you are still in trouble you can check the timing without removing the flywheel but it may be easier if you remove the cylinder head – just depend upon the position of the plug hole in relation to the bore for measuring piston position. If with the correct points setting, the timing is way out, it will be necessary to loosen the flywheel – and while you are there remove it and with the improved access give the points a thorough clean.

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