[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy,
apologies for the late reply on your last comment.
I checked the fuel needle position and it was in the 2nd groove from the top.
I put it in the 4th groove from the top which would lift the needle and in my understanding let more fuel through on acceleration?
I started the engine and did not see a lot of difference on adjusting the throttle lever.
It picks up speed a bit but the governor seems to be cutting in too quickly?
It looks to be running to rich and the plug is getting coked up too implying too rich.
I have put two videos on You Tube showing the engine running, it may help you to see if there is a problem or not and maybe advise me to try something else
Links:


Thanks again for your help
Regards Steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looking through some old magazines of Agricultural shows at Warwick, I’m pretty certain that Charlie is right with the Farmers Boy thought. The pictures show it to be a Farmers Boy Major and of the 4 machines on show, two had different handles for different work. I thought at first that belt and chain guards were missing but I can’t see any attachment points on mine and there are none in the pictures of any on the 4 machines. Perhaps other owners may have details of attachments, plough, trailer etc and would care to share info, (perhaps a section already exists within the Club). Thanks for the replies.

[vhgmcbuddy]

it could be a Gardenmaster 80 a picture would help

[vhgmcbuddy]

I do know that Binks was a carburettor manufacturer. No doubt the pre-war motorbike enthusiasts will tell you that.

Also on my Dennis

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks everyone, and thanks for the manual page scan Wristpin. I will have her up on the bench again and try again.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like the engine is a Mk25 Villiers – the ID plate is still in place for confirmation – so that shouldn’t present any insuperable issues.
As for the make – over to someone else !

[vhgmcbuddy]

You should know better Charlie!!!!
Speak to the orical,we own all the ledgers for Automower and every single printing plate they had made for all their products
Kind regards
Archivist
The Hall & Duck Trust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like it isn’t rare, but predates the Internet. It will probably spend another 20 years in the back of my shed.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is mine running today after the timing reset.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks to those who posted advice on how to proceed, I know it wasnt my thread but I think we should both arrive at the same place.
If the OP needs any help from my travails just give me a shout.

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have cracked it I think. I know it doesn’t sound as good as eureka but it’s the same feeling.
I took the whole fan casing, fan and flywheel off this morning. Cleaned the points and set them to 14 thou.
I used a depth gauge I made to measure from the plug hole to the piston crown, added 5/32 and that came to 20.63mm
I then used that gauge to hold the piston while I set the points to just opening.
When I rebuilt the cowling and fitted the fan the two arrows lined up absolutely bang on TDC.
Two pulls is all it takes to start her now and she will start from hot or cold.

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

It is possible that you may have mixed up two methods of setting the timing. Your original method of putting the piston to the specified amount before tdc and turning the fly wheel unit the points just open is correct.
On some engines, In an move to make things easier Villiers muddied the waters a bit by doing all the initial set up and then stamping an arrow on to the flywheel corresponding to a nib on the casting with the piston positioned at tdc. Muddle the two systems together and the timing will be somewhat amiss.
I would go back to your basic method. Set the correct points gap , turn the engine back to the specified figure and fit and lock the flywheel in the position where the points are just opening .

In case it is of use I’ve just scanned this for you. Interestingly in this edition there is no mention of the “short cut”.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dhg5cytoyqgb8yr/Villiers%20Mk25%20C25%20ignition%20setting0001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

In response to your question Wristpin, I had the head off and loosened the flywheel, got to TDC, rotated crankshaft back until the piston was 3/16″ down in vertical travel before TDC and then rotated the flywheel so that the mark on the flywheel matched the mark on the casing, then tightened the flywheel. Never done one before, is this correct?

It now won’t start at all.

I think the oil ring on the piston also needs replacing, has good compression but each stroke brings up quite a bit of oil and the head is fouling pretty quickly.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is a you tube video of her running.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I set my timing by measuring the piston 5/32 of an inch BTDC. I take it that’s right? I simply measured it using a caliper gauge, what is the best way to be accurate? Make a L shaped probe with the bottom part machined to 5/32?
There were arrows and Mark’s on the alloy fan casing and flywheel but as I wasnt sure about them i didnt use them.
George from villiers parts says its probably an ignition issue.
I will check and reset the timing to rule that out before I start replacing things.

[Author]

Posts