[vhgmcbuddy]

Received diagram with thanks via email. Myn appears to be slightly different to the diagram as it doesn’t have a coil as shown (has a magneto) and myn has 8 fuses as opposed to 4.

[vhgmcbuddy]

What a coincidence , I’m just doing a mechanical renovation on a similar UK spec machine that was marketed as a Merry Tiller Titan. Not nearly in as good cosmetic condition as yours. UK spec machines just used a standard SAE 30 or 40 engine oil in the chain case, but as the machines got old and unloved and suffered from leaking rotor shaft oil seals the chain cases were often topped up with semi fluid grease.
Most UK machines had handle bars that could be swung to either the left or right so that the operator was not walking on the freshly turned ground.
The 5hp Briggs on my machine has a 1969 date code.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Much appreciated. Does the manual have a wiring diagram. My email address is Garybowers@btinternet.com

[vhgmcbuddy]

Finally… but I still need to find an exhaust pipe

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
I have the full Gutbrod manual, If you have not received any info please advise how best to get it to you. Tommy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Orchard sprayer?, can’t see where the outlet is, but it could be for spraying crops.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Interested to see your comment Andy regarding the Howard Bantam, I have one waiting as always for restoration, It came with a ridger so when up and running, I will look forward to using it for my potatoe planting. Cheers Plonker

[vhgmcbuddy]

After quite a struggle I have managed to get the Coleby Junior running. The engine has been running for a while now put there were (and still are) issues with it. The piston rings are probably worn since it uses about a gallon of oil to every half gallon of petrol and there are issues with the governor. Still the gearbox was all assembled, clutch fitted engine running ready for a quick run around the local bowling green. But seriously, I’m dead chuffed, all I need to do is repaint it with some enamel paint with the hope it will resist petrol. A few other odd jobs including getting those piston rings changed and it should be ready for next years shows.

Once painted, I’ll throw a few pictures up for all to admire (or otherwise).

[vhgmcbuddy]

Finally I have my wheel extensions via e bay after 3 years looking and then like buses another set come on eBay following week and at half price, who would believe it😳 Ian.

[vhgmcbuddy]

You should be able to date the engine by finding the words Model, Type and Code stamped into the engine cowling ( or in Briggs speak the blower housing). The numerals under. Code show the year, month and day of manufacture, so if they start with 55, the engine was made in 1955. If it’s s lot later than the 50s the machine may have been re- engined.
As far as I know the oil in the chain case is checked via a rubber plug or grommet at the top right side of the case. If you want to drain it you will probably have to remove the right hand rotors and turn the machine on it’s side over a suitable tray. May be as well to drain the engine first . If there’s not much oil in the case, start by adding a small quantity and running the machine just to check that there’s not a gross leakage from around the rotor shaft bearings. Dismantling the case to change the bearings and seals is quite a performance, so if there’s a small leak and the machine is not going to get heavy use it could well be advantageous to add semi fluid grease to the case rather than oil.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would question the wisdom of setting the points to 16thou, the top end of the recommendation of 12 to 16. I would always aim for the middle of the range as quite often the final tightening of the clamping screw will move them a fraction. If the aiming point was 14thou and they do move, you are still likely to be within range without the need for further fiddling about.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the replies,I have had the mag off and replaced the ign lead with new and I took the points apart and cleaned them up with emery I put the mag back on and set the points to 16 thou and checked and double checked then took the head off and set the timing 3/16ths btdc and checked this twice by turning the engine over and checking when the points were just opening and replaced the spark plug with new.I havent touched the valves yet so I will go back to them and start again.

[vhgmcbuddy]

As ever, start with valves – faces, seats and gaps, then the ignition – points faces and gap, and then the carburettor. No amount of fiddling with the carb will achieve satisfactory running until the basics are right.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks as though it has a JAP engine. Think that I’ve recently seen that another owner is having problems in obtaining a recoil spring. Is it for using or painting and posing?

[vhgmcbuddy]

A bit more identification information may help e.g. – two or four stroke, plate clutch / cone clutch etc. May even have the original ID tag under a chassis frame bolt head on the RH side plate.Sometimes a round disc and other times like this.

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