[vhgmcbuddy]

This is the best that I can find. Despite it showing a fixed engine, cable operated machine on the first page, the rest is sliding engine.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea4zkfv4wfcogqm/Mountfield%20M1%20Cultivator0001.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dcgbi3frr4honkm/Mountfield%20Cultivator%20Belts0002.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi i have 3 of these 1 very early horwool like in the brochure 1 late horwool and 1 early nickerson. The late horwool and the early nickerson are very similar, but i believe it is a early nickerson if the seat is original, because it has the nickerson turfmaster logo on the back. There is a serial plate on the frame towards the rear left as you sit on it, behind the foot plate, which will tell you for sure

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[vhgmcbuddy]

This is probably a long shot but it looks as if I am missing the fan for my Villiers 25A engine. I wondered whether there is anyone out there who has spares.
I attach a picture of the OEM manual showing what I am missing. I suspect there are going to be many more bits missing so a source of spares, or even a spare engine wouldn’t go a miss.
Any help would be much appreciated.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Wristpin I have the earlier model with the sliding engine, that’s why I have been struggling, a few pictures of the early red ones, even few of the green ones but loads of information and pictures of the jockey wheel models and gardeners. Why couldn’t Mountfield just call them M1 A,B,C ETC????
I would greatly appreciate any literature you have Wristpin.
Thank you , stay safe and take care, Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Your eng8ne numbers suggest a 1975 machine. I’ve probably got a parts manual for it but an image of the whole machine will be useful before I spend time scanning it as there were two versions. On the early machines a lever slid the engine to engage the drive while on the later ones the engine was fixed and the drive was engaged by a cable operated jockey pulley.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie, I’ve looked at them from one of your other replies, I suppose I am going to have to strip it down and measure everything and try and go from there. It’s Strange there is very little information on the M1’s yet the Merry tillers and Howard’s landmasters etc have loads of information on there variants.
I will start stripping and post my progress
Take care and stay safe,
Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Vintage spec oils for vintage engines – particularly if they have plain bushed bearings.
Millers do a Classic two stroke mixing oil and Morris Lubricants do straight SAE 30 and 40 non detergent oil that is fine as a mixer.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is of interest to me as well. Andy, how do you know all this stuff?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I use Exol Optima Racing 2 Stroke fully synthetic oil in all my 2 stroke engines. When used in my SIMAR 56a, it produces virtually no smoke. I also use it in a ratio of 20:1 instead of the recommended 16:1.
I have a number of vintage chainsaws which originally specified a mix ratio of 16:1, but I use a mix ratio of 25:1 without any issues.

I would try a fully synthetic oil in your 11C, but keep the mix ratio as originally recommended and see how you get on.

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have managed to work out my engine and carb etc, still don’t know what the variant of the frame is.

some closer inspections have revealed that there are some leaks around the engine and one of the rotor drive shafts. I have sourced a NOS full gasket kit and identified the bearing (in the manual that has clutch on handle)as rls8 but get nothing for the mountfield part number are they the same on them all?
the muffler has bee replaced as said before and is low profile so leaving soot and deposits on the deck can you still get the “tin can” mufflers with thread as the exhaust bore is threaded?

I would like it to look as original as possible the original mountfield paint looks like a howard orange rather than the mountfield red, does anyone know what the RAL or BSP numbers would be or should i just use mountfield red?

cheers, Mike

[vhgmcbuddy]

Another bit of advice I would give is coat every thread with some copper grease. This will make taking the thing apart much easier if you need to and believe me you will need to if this is your first attempt. You do need to be mindful that you will be able to exert much more force on the bolt or studs when compared to tightening a dry thread and it will be much easier to over tighten them. Just use common sense in this regard and you should be OK.

Stud lock is very useful and will normally hold studs in place easily so long as the threads are clean.

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks very helpful, Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Charlie, this is nothing compared to the last Coleby gearbox, but the big end bearing is rollers I believe but thankfully it does all move freely so I intend to clean up, apply copious amounts of engine oil and then reassemble The bits I have done have cleaned up surprisingly well.

The big issue is I don’t want to spend huge amounts of cash on an engine that can’t be restored so it will be a case of cleaning and replacing anything that is essential to get it running and then do a proper rebuilt if needed.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I sneaked out to the garage and started to bash away at the drive shaft. The crank case in now apart which is great news. I thought I would share the state of the crank case before I started to split it.
I’m going to try an replace the bearings in the crankcase, but am a little reluctant to attempt changing the big end bearings. I think I’ll change the easy bits and then if the engine rattles too much, take the thing apart again and have another go.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

If you get stuck, I can probably make you one from the drawing. I need to have a look to see what taps I’ve got and will need to sort out a couple of drills, but that’s no big deal.
Let me know if you want one made but remember it will need to take a back seat for a few weeks while I try and sort out my Villiers engine.

I’m not sure you can private message now but Charlie can send you my details if needed.

Keith

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