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Viewing 15 posts - 1,486 through 1,500 (of 8,814 total)
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  • #36102
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Briggs always used to recommend a straight SAE 30 and I still use it in earlier/ worn engines but they now say that 10/30 is acceptable. Synthetic ok but a waste of money.
    Don’t be too quick to knock Amazon, I’ve just purchased a set of genuine BS piston rings via them for far less than the UK TRADE price – crazy!

    #36101
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Your right Charlie the drive is 13 teeth and the rotor is 26 teeth. 2:1 reduction.

    #36100
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Thanks… I shouldn’t have been so hasty ordering as I have this one from amazon. hate using amazon as it didnt truly say where it was coming from and full price when searched. prefer ebay. damn.
    But whatever my oldish 10/30 now needs a mechanics care
    to keep it going. Not as old as some on here I’m sure but hell is it a ideal mower for a medium sized garden.

    q)I have been putting in 5/30 semi synth but feel
    I should be putting in sae 30 non multigrade stuff.

    What’s the thoughts on oil for above 5deg c mowing ?

    #36098
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    When I was selling Countax tractors in the 90s/2000s they were fitted as standard so there will be plenty around from scrap engines.
    Something like this
    https://www.gardentractorspares.co.uk/westwood-countax-tractor-engine-oil-drainage-valve-52851200?gclid=CjwKCAiA_Kz-BRAJEiwAhJNY74fL76-64GFH22ZU4c2M34aITO_XvXYQXWtZWMUhy7TEj0hLkZjm_xoCCJ8QAvD_BwE

    Or

    #36097
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Checked thread and ordered
    a oregon oil drain valve.

    I am ok on metric threads but the older ones … I am clueless.

    I measured drain bolt as m18*1.5 (roughly as I couldn’t take it fully out)

    imperial (or whatever it’s called) it looked like 3/8″

    so I ordered
    3/8″-18 NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) thread which is standard for these valves.

    I assume the 18 means mm.

    #36094
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Superb idea. I never new such things as oil drain valves were even available.

    I do have a good engine oil pump that sucks it out but my old mower deserves a good clean out…..

    I’ll check the size and thread today. I dont suppose you can recommend a good oil drain valve ? … must be
    old imperial thread on a Briggs and Stratton

    #36093
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    hi Stuart
    Do you still have that Gardenmaster attachment

    #36092
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Using a proper vacuum extractor with the machine tipped towards the base of the filler tube gets most of the oil out and if changed regularly what’s left is not worth worrying about.
    Alternatively get a quick release drain valve. Tip the machine away from the drain plug and fit the valve . Then, when it comes to change time, warm the engine, push a tube onto the valve with the other end in a catch can, and twist the valve to release the oil.
    A brick under each of the row opposite wheels helps in both cases.

    #36091
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi Mike no I dont have a digital copy but could scan and email to you if you want leave me your email details in a pm to me thanks

    #36089
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    The part in the diagram looks like a proper rotor arm and will just fit straight on to the main drive, where on this mag it is a round cog type rotor and this is where I can’t figure out how to fix the rotor back so the timing is true.

    if I could find any witness arrows or mark to line up with the main drive, I don’t know if I am explaining this too clearly

    Attachments:
    #36075
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    I’ll try again.
    any idea how I get the oil out of this drain plug into a container ?
    it is so inaccessible I cannot do this ever without getting the frame covered in oil

    Attachments:
    #36074
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Dont understand I post then look back at site and no text or pics are present?

    any ideas why ?

    #36065
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Yea Charlie, it is the A1483HZ but my problem starts with him taking the rotor arm out without making a note of where it should syncronise to. There is no mark on the rotor although there is a witness arrow on the small drive shaft, opposite the keyway. The rotor has been damaged in the past but it did work until he decided to leave it out in the rain, this is when he took it apart to dry it out, no problem “I’ll give it to Phil, he’ll fix it”?
    Attached are photos of what I have. I presume then I can stick my finger in the plug hole, feel for the piston and time the points just before TDC.
    Or at least that’s what I was thinking, not worked with this type of mag before.

    Cheeers!
    Phil

    Attachments:
    #36063
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Rollo do you have a digital copy? I did post some photos before your second comment but don’t know what happened so here goes attempt no.3

    Andrew I will take a look thanks.

    Take care and stay safe,
    Mike

    Attachments:
    #36062
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Have a look on that internet auction site for that scoundrel Mr Wallingfield,he has a job lot of rotavator brochures to include yours on this week!
    Kind regards
    Andrew

Viewing 15 posts - 1,486 through 1,500 (of 8,814 total)