[vhgmcbuddy]

I would be wary of starting the engine with just the clutch drum attached to the crank. In theory, the drive chain should stop it from sliding off the crank, but if the chain was to jump off the sprocket, you could end up with the clutch drum whizzing across your garden in Dambusters bouncing bomb style!!

As for the orientation of the key in the keyway, I think you are probably correct that the tapered end is located towards the engine, but hopefully someone can confirm. The key on my Trusty is different, in that it has a grease nipple on the outer end, so can only be fitted one way.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello, I hope this helps. The deck attaches to the hitch o matic and the lifting gear, which is the short pin in slot at the back, see photo. If you PM me your email I can send you a deck manual. Owen. This photo is of my C145.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Busman. Yes, I did wonder the same thing.
When I originally took the clutch drive off the key just dropped out, so I never got to see how it was situated.
Do I assume the tapered end goes downwards and towards the bush?
I could easily losen the clutch drive and pull the key away from the bronze bush a bit.
One more question. Could I start the engine with the clutch drive removed? If so, I could then see if the drum rotates place – this might narrow down what the problem is.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Could the problem be that the key has been driven too far along the keyway and is pressing against the bronze bush on the clutch drum, causing it to spin with the crank?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Take 3

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[vhgmcbuddy]

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[vhgmcbuddy]

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I greased up the clutch bush today using a grease gun until it seeped through + put copper grease on the shaft. The clutch drum rotates by hand independently from the shaft no problem, but once the engine is started it rotates rapidly and is not easily stopped (even on very low tick over). Do I conclude from this that the bush needs replacing? If so are they available and from where? Is fitting easy?
Also, can I assume that the key slides in with the tapered end facing down at the back?
Hopefully there are some photos here – If anyone sees anything amiss please say. Any help much appreciated. Many thanks, Ben.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I finally got round to having a look at the trusty clutch today.
All seems in good order, though the pads are worn down to the rivets, so will need to get them re-done (anyone know a good place to get the relining done?)

The clutch shoes engage and disengage just fine and the springs look new. However, whilst the shoes come away nicely from the housing at low revs, everything is still spinning.
I tried to grease the bush in the clutch drum, but grease just came out of the side and would not go in the nipple. I removed the nipple and got it working, but had broken my useless grease gun in the process, so will get another one tomorrow and try to grease that up properly.
If that doesn’t work does anyone have any other suggestions as to what is causing it to still spin at low revs (despite being disengaged)?
Thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m doing all this remotely with my father, who has the machine in his barn, and he has found the engine number. Being my father, he has scrawled it on a scrap of oil-covered paper, probably using a blunt pencil, which he has then lost somewhere….if he had a beard, it would be in there somewhere.

Still, I can’t be overly critical as he has ascertained that it is a 1951 series 5 engine…. There is a platform with three holes.

There’s another just cropped up on fleabay – A576BZ, counter-clockwise rotation.

So, fingers-crossed I’ll get something soon – thanks for the advice so far.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Andy

[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy – Would this one fit for example?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Villiers-MK25C-2-stroke-engine-runner/172383474857?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p2050601.c100103.m2451&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37140%26meid%3Dd1cf52f910a542cfb25fe9d5a8dbf890%26pid%3D100103%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D172383474857%26clkid%3D70468998620665504&_qi=RTM2065550

[vhgmcbuddy]

Did manage to get the flywheel off which looks rough, but the components inside don’t look too bad after cleaning. The back plate however is corroded and even a small hole in it + the engine is seized and I cannot get the plug out – Perhaps a donor engine is in order if I can find one!
Thanks for your advice Charlie.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I picked up the December copy of Tractor and Machinery today, it had a write up on Newbury by Peter Love with some nice positive comments about our Ohlsson Rice display plus Darren, Gareth and Charlies machines.

No photos of the section this month but some promised for the January 2017 issue

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thought you’d appreciate this one Dave..

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