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Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 785 total)
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  • #32648
    andyfrost
    Participant

    The first port of call for me would be to have your magneto properly tested , a wise old saying “90% of fuel problems are ignition related”.

    Andy.

    #32608
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Angus , I’m only guessing that they were an in house made engine , based purely on the fact that I have never seen them fitted to any other form of machinery , like many others they sourced in the ignition and carbs.
    Nice little engines when running , but the Miller ignitions were troublesome.

    Andy

    #32074
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Peter , only my personal opinion , but I always laid it down to the fact that ploughing with it never “loaded” the engine up enough , i never once had it really pulling hard enough to even the engine out.
    Also I would have thought that crankcase compression would not allow oil from the gearbox to pass into the engine once running.
    At the end of the day , it’snot something I would lose any sleep over.

    Andy.

    #31903
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Howard Gem , obviously not in the original colour scheme.

    Andy.

    #31808
    andyfrost
    Participant

    MK25C is the model , the carb is a very simple affair to clean , if after this your problems persist I would be checking the ignition timing.

    Andy.

    #31492
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Hi , have you checked the float for holes/leakage , not uncommon on the s12 carb. Failing this it’s either the needle or seat , very easy to fit on this carb.

    Andy.

    #31441
    andyfrost
    Participant

    “Undid the nut but after a turn or so it went tight.” ,

    That’s perfectly normal , just keep undoing the nut , the idea being it acts as a self puller ,best to use a PRECISE fitting socket and bar, you may find that you will need a hammer to initially get it moving.

    Andy.

    #31294
    andyfrost
    Participant

    That does look terminal.

    Andy.

    #31280
    andyfrost
    Participant

    The most common carb is the one in picture 3 , the main adjuster is the one at the very bottom of the carb , undo locking backnut , wind in slightly for a weaker mixture.

    Andy.

    #31257
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Keith , I’ve managed to find it , PM me your address and I’ll pop it in the post.

    Andy.

    #31255
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Keith , I have a manual , somewhere , if I can find it , I’ll let you know , and you’d be more than welcome to borrow it.
    I have a few spares for them , including Pistons and rings , and a complete carb , just let me know what you need.

    Andy.

    #31247
    andyfrost
    Participant

    One tip , make sure the crankshaft , and flywheel are THOROUGHLY de-greased beforehand , before de-greasing it does no harm to lightly rub the crankshaft with some fine abrasive paper.

    Andy.

    #31222
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Rather than confusing yourself further , try what I have said , and report back , as long as the points just start opening at 5/32 BTDC , it should be fine. You can set the correct point gap before doing the actual timing , it matters not whether anything is lined up or not , the gap will be the same any where on the stroke.

    Andy.

    #31219
    andyfrost
    Participant

    5/32″ is the correct timing for a 25c, as the 25c has an over centre spark plug hole it makes life far easier , just set it so the points just begin to open at 5/32 BTDC , tighten flywheel , RE-CHECK that it hasn’t moved during the tightening process……….job done.

    Andy.

    #31019
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Top job.

    Andy.

Viewing 15 posts - 391 through 405 (of 785 total)