[wristpin]

AS far as I know, Morris 2T is a synthetic or semi synthetic oil for modern high revving high output two strokes. For vintage engines with plain bearings and rudimentary sealing I stick to a non detergent SAE30 or a mixing oil specifically formulated for older engines, such as Millers Classic CM2T.

[wristpin]

This may be useful
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zoyfe15o2edqiwe/Howard%207000001.pdf?dl=0

If it is please download it or print it off as it takes up quite a lot of my free Dropbox space and I will delete it after Christmas.

[wristpin]

“Straight” or mono grade SAE30 comes in two versions, detergent and non-detergent. The former mono grade 30 complies with the requirements for modern air cooled four strokes and used to be the recommended oil for Briggs etc although they now also allow multi-grade oils. The non detergent presently marketed for many classic cars is probably the equivalent of the SAE30 that was recommended for making up two-stoke mix .
Morris and Millers both market detergent and non detergent SAE30 oils and Millers also market a specific non synthetic two-stoke mixing oil for older engines.

[wristpin]

Prompted by Andyfrost’s comment I take back my “bitsa” comment – how about a Mayfield Hoe and Mow?

[wristpin]

Just realised that it had Allen Mayfield on the belt guard so guess that it’s a real ” bitza”

[wristpin]

The welded chain case looks Westwood also.

[wristpin]

My tool was made by KD Tools and came from the US but I have seen them in various UK catalogues but not lately. An old screwdriver could easily be modified with a bend on the end ground into a hook. The other end with the cut out to lift and lever the bottom retainer may not be so easy to reproduce but once you have the keyhole lined up a screwdriver will push it off.
The other tool beside it in my last post, is much used and is a Trcnamotor/Aspera/Tecumseh tool – no longer available but fairly easy to make.

KD Tool

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[wristpin]

The attached may be of assistance but it doesn’t mention arrows. You mention “countershaft” should that be crankshaft? Quite a lot of Villiers engines that I’ve seen have a small notch in the flywheel end of the crank which, when at 12 o’clock coincides with top dead centre. You may find that the arrow on your flywheel, when lined up with the one on the backplate and the piston at TDC, is the position at which the points should just start to open. Please note the use of may!
Personally I like to set the timing from basic principles ie setting the piston to the specified distance before TDC and the flywheel to just start to open the points. If you do this and then look at the relative positions of the arrows all may become clear!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sk6uyq6i5e700xg/Villiers%20Mk25%20service%20and%20repair0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

I seldom attempt to use the BS tool for dismantling, only for reassembling. As has been said in another reply,the trick for dismantling is to use a “hooky thing” to rotate the key hole retainer so that the wide part of the key hole is towards you so that an upward and forward thrust disengages it from the valve stem.
In the attached pic of my collection of small engine valve tools the “hooky thing” is to the left within the big spring compressor.

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[wristpin]

I 100% endorse the need for proper coil testing. Stressing the coil with a proper tester will soon show up internal breakdowns of insulation and frequently on Villiers engines. ” leakage” between the HT termination of the coil and the magneto backplate; so best to test the magneto as an assembly and not just the coil. If a test of the mag gives a negative result it is then worth doing a separate test of the condenser. This can be done in situ but it is necessary to separate the condenser wire from the coil primary wire and Make sure that the points are either open or disconnected.

[wristpin]

Think that you are being a mite harsh with your comments. The key hole valve spring retainers are used by many manufacturers and work well and the Briggs valve spring compressor is one of the best around for small engine work – I use one regularly on Briggs and other small engines and have never had any issues with it – far from useless. Its use is illustrated in the Briggs L head ( side valve ) manual.
Assemble the valve spring and the top and bottom retainers into the tool, compress, insert into the valve chest, drop the valve stem through it, lower the tool to engage the small end of the key hole in the groove of the stem and release the tool – job done; 30 seconds max.
Can you be a bit more specific re the nature of the issues that you are experiencing.

[wristpin]

Only just seen this thread. I have two Mayfield parts books showing a cylinder mower attachment but neither look particularly offset and just to confuse matters they both show identical pillow block bearings for either end of the cylinder. The number given is UCLP205-16 which is a generic bearing manufacturer’s reference.
https://www.google.co.uk/#q=uclp205-16

[wristpin]

Maybe I’ve been lucky but I’ve never suffered a failure from a reused circlip – just don’t twist them when removing. I did once see an engine where the pin was moving about in the piston and had worn a slot in the bore at opposite sides. The amazing thing was that other than difficult starting it performed pretty much as usual.

[wristpin]

put copper grease on the shaft

Point of order! Copper “grease” is not a lubricant for rotating components but an anti-seize compound and is not a substitute for “proper” grease or oil.

[wristpin]

Perhaps what ever lubricant is in/on the bush is sticky enough to transmit some drive. Do you know if it is a plain bush (bronze / phosphor bronze?) or an “oilite” bush that is impregnated with oil. I’m not familiar with the Trusty setup, so am working blind, but have come across similar situations with Ransomes Mastiff lawnmowers and also some older Suffolk Punches – usually resolved by replacing worn bushes or restoring the correct profile of the end of the shaft running in the bush to reduce the friction area.

[Author]

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