[wristpin]

Echoing Neil’s comment I have lost count of the number of bearings I have replaced on crawlers that had been packed with grease and not 140 oil . The grease goes solid over time and is extremely difficult to remove.The load rollers have a long drilling through the castings to the centre cavity between the bearings, grease blocks this so that no lubricant gets to the bearings. I use SAE140 in an air powered grease gun and pump until it escapes the seals.

I totally agree – it was never my intention to imply that grease should be used where oil is specified, just that the precise grade of grease or oil was not as important as the presence of some of the prescribed lubricant. Two other examples of where the use of grease instead of oil will give rise trouble are Ransomes lawnmower rear rollers and Triumph Herald king pins, the latter sometimes disastrously!

[wristpin]

The older the machine the less fussy it is likely to be as any of today’s oils and greases are probably likely to be of far better quality than those back in the days when the machines were being used in anger? The exception to this is Two-stroke oil where I say “old oil for old engines”, but I think that we’ve already been there!
Some oil (or grease) is at least better than no oil!!

[wristpin]

Hey thanks for the help all I need now is to work out how to get to the drop box on here

I was a bit puzzled by by that remark but then realised that you can only see the Dropbox link if viewing the post in the main Forum area. It is not visible if viewing updated posts in Activity.

Here it is again.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

The reason for checking the spark ( at the end of the plug lead) is that it has been known for an incorrectly positioned low tension wire to short out against the inside of the cover.

A lot of useful info in the Dropbox scan that I posted – you just need to click on it in my post.

[wristpin]

For one off purposes a bit of plain bar with no centre screw will do. Slacken the flywheel nut a turn or two and put the pressure on by either tightening the two bolts screwed into the fly wheel or use studding with nuts and tighten the nuts bit at a time.
Be aware that being of US origin, the tapped holes in the flywheel will be UNC thread and not metric.
The page 10.1 of the Dropbox file that I attached to my post has a not entirely accurate drawing of a “posh” puller with a centre screw – it should show a bit of crank protruding from the flywheel.

[wristpin]

Just as well that your ” local guy” didn’t end up with a ring of flywheel and the centre still on the crank. Using any sort of legged puller ( if that’s what he did) on your Kohler or any similar flywheel is an absolute no, no. If the flywheel is drilled and tapped near the centre, make up a puller with a bit of flat plate and two set screws to bear on the end of the crank ( protected by the flywheel nut), wind it up tight and give it a sharp tap with a hammer. Maybe, also warm the centre of the flywheel up but remember what’s behind it!
Points, the recommended setting is 20 thou.
You can use an external automotive type coil but you will need a battery and have to give it a charge now and again. Better to stay standard. Before you get carried away doing that, take the points off and give them a thorough clean, make sure that they are shutting square to one another and set the gap accurately, better a bit tight than wide as I have had a couple that have run better nearer 18 thou than a sloppy 20. Also try checking the spark with the points cover removed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t59ihxrrrijqqaq/Kohler%20ignition%20etc0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

Got a face covered in oil spots! Great times!

Commonly known as Marshall Measles !

[wristpin]

Thanks, that’s useful to know. Looks like your supplier’s nearest branch is Aldershot or Newbury but hopefully the product is available nearer to me.

[wristpin]

Finished painting the fuel tank this afternoon. Small dents were filled and then etch primed, before top coat was brushed on. I will be clear coating the fuel tank with a 1k lacquer, as the enamel is not fuel resistant!

Out of interest, what 1k lacquer have you found that is fuel proof – I’ve yet to find one! Even powder coating does not seem to fend off ethanol adulterated fuel.

[wristpin]

Wouldn’t have thought that 4m was not over long but how much lift are you attempting? Also, you need to eliminate any air leaks on the suction side and make sure that the internal structure of the suction hose is not collapsing. Heavy grease around screw fittings can help.

[wristpin]

What a wonderful bit of provenance to go with the machine. I can just about remember when receipts had to have a stamp on but can’t remember when that requirement ceased.

[wristpin]

Any decent fuel injection specialist should be able to overhaul your injector. If you remove it from the engine and put the business end into a jar or bottle you can observe the spray pattern or lack of it and note whether it dribbles.
Be aware that a mishandled injector can force diesel under the skin with serious consequences.

[wristpin]

“I should forget about European laws by the time this will come through we will not be part of Europe!”

Nice thought, but our civil servants will probably adopt the European Standard and add a few obscure tweaks of their own just to justify their existence.

[wristpin]

To be totally legal I believe that the Westwood must be initially registered and display the allocated reg number but after that it will be exempt from road tax but you may have to renew the exemption annually. That’s how it worked for the fork truck that we had and used to travel between two units on an industrial estate. That was in the days of the tax disc and every year we got one with “£ EXEMPT”.
Insurance needs to be “road traffic act” not just public liability.
Not sure how you stand with “construction and use” as if it has lights they must work and comply so perhaps best “not to have any”!
AS for driving it on the pavement – no difference, the pavement is still part of the public highway.
Worst case scenario is that you are proceeding around the estate in a semi lawful manner and a small child collides with you and is hospitalised. Parents contact “we take any case.com” and the S**t hits the fan.

[wristpin]

No, not missing anything , XL and XXL were all that was available back in the day when there were no specific mixing oils. XL was possibly one of the recommended oils for making up the mix then and will still be fine today. It won’t mix as easily or stay mixed as well as modern two stroke oils but has the ” body” to make the best of the bearings and sealing of an elderly engine – just mix it well and give it a good shake if it’s been standing. At the risk of repeating myself that’s why I like the Millers Classic two stroke oil – the best of the old and the new.
When all is said and done, back in the day your machine was possibly fed a diet of what ever was around and has survived to tell the tale so just get the proportion right and enjoy.

[Author]

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