[wristpin]

I hope that this does not add to the confusion but I have a parts book from the early 80s and the numbers are nothing like those that you have , so I’m guessing that your machine is a much later version. If it has not been re- engined the BS Model, Type And Code Numbers will give an indication of the machines date . The Code Number indicating when the engine was made.

Forgot that I already had a scan in a dropbox file !

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea4zkfv4wfcogqm/Mountfield%20M1%20Cultivator0001.pdf?dl=0

Attachments:

1. 
2. 

[wristpin]

If your tap has a “ gland nut” a fraction of a turn may cure the leak. Also it used to be possible to buy a new “ packing” for the spindle – similar to old plumbing taps. In the past I’ve effected a temporary repair using a bit of well greased starter cord as a packing.

[wristpin]

That’s good, as I suspected. The movement of the arm on the shaft is a basic setting, not an adjustment, meaning it’s either correct of incorrect – no partially correct. The usual procedure is as follows, but consult the workshop manual wherever possible.
Slacken the clamp just enough to allow the shaft to be rotated. Then move the governor arm to give full throttle on the carb. Then holding the governor arm to maintain that position, turn the shaft fully in the same direction direction that gave full throttle and fully tighten the clamp.
That will give the full governed speed for any throttle lever position. The principle is that when the engine is running the internal governor mechanism is always trying to close the throttle, that action is opposed by the throttle lever via the governor spring, the result being the governed speed.

[wristpin]

One reason why it may have been running flat out was I had not connected the gearbox. It has no clutch, so the drag of turning the gears would of course slow it down a bit.

Na, erroneous thinking! Correctly set up that engine should start, idle and run at full throttle under governor control with no external load. Let’s see a decent image or two of the governor / throttle linkages.

[wristpin]

Sounds as though someone may have messed with the governor, hopefully only the external linkage and not a problem with the internal mechanism. A decent image of where the governor shaft emerges from the crankcase and the arm clamped to it will help with suggestions for resetting it.

[wristpin]

They made winches and modified tractors for timber extraction. Eventually they were absorbed by T.H.White and moved to Devizes in Wiltshire.

I believe that their winch tractors were also used for handling barrage balloons during the war and also to assist with stringing cables between pylons for the National Electricity Grid.

I guess that the name Automower is no longer protected as Husqvarna are using it for their robot mowers.

[wristpin]

The early ones had a three piece bearing, cup, race and cone, on each side of the wheel. They became difficult to find many years ago. May be worth trying Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre. The later ones had a pressed in capsule one piece bearing on each side of the wheel. The later ones were used in the front wheels of the Harrier 48 etc and as far as I know are still available as a Hayter spare. I seem to remember that they were “ impossible” to match with a pattern part but things may have changed. You can still buy the complete wheel and bearing assembly as an original Hayter part ; last time I did so, about £10 a corner. Central Spares do?/ did? A “near as” wheel assembly at around the same price – may still do.

[wristpin]

Found the instructions for the Hunter Olympic shear grinder saved on the ‘puter as a 2043PDF file but don’t seem to be able to attach it. Advice needed!!

Had a think!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bvaweh1z4s8w0q/Olympic%20shear%20grinder%20instructions0001.pdf?dl=0

[wristpin]

A couple of images will help .

[wristpin]

I sent you a pm a couple of weeks ago – not of interest or in your junk folder ?

[wristpin]

Just Google Tecumseh H60 -there’s plenty on line.

[wristpin]

This may be of interest
https://www.vehicle-electrical-rewinds.co.uk/how-dynastarts-work.html

[wristpin]

I had an early Bug with a Tecumseh engine and that was white. In the early days of Westwood there was a certain amount of making it up as they went along and “ use what they had”. It sounds as though what you have is a Dynostart – starter and generator combined – the two functions in one unit, not that unusual in those days when many of the engine manufacturers had not got around to incorporating an alternator under the flywheel with the ignition windings.
Sounds like your Bug is original, so many were butchered for lawn mower racing.
I’m only about ten miles from you, so if you need any help send me a PM.

Edit. I should add a word of warning. With any electric starting system it is very important that when” messing” with the wiring that you don’t end up sending battery voltage up the ignition stop/kill wire to the ignition windings – it will burn them out in a millisecond. So if you are experimenting sorting the electrics out my best advice is to disconnect the kill wire until you are sure that all is in order. You mention smoke – hopefully that has not already happened.

[wristpin]

The make and model of engine would be a good place to start!

[wristpin]

Sad to see another small business go. I would think that the BRL will find a home , especially if it’s single phase electrics. I have it’s twin with me now. I also had a Hunter shear grinder in my old business, a bit fiddly to use but did a proper job. I may be able to lay my hands on a set of operating instructions if it will help sell it. ( pls note MAY) I’ll have a look in the archives.

[Author]

Posts