[wristpin]

the possible reason some members ( like myself ) find it too difficult or time consuming to clart on shrinking photos other sites I use CAN use full size photos not everyone is a nerd with a computer

With respect, if the questioner finds it too time consuming to supply the clues, why should he/she expect others to “ consume their time” trying to assist?

[wristpin]

Please add a photo of your machine, it always helps when identifying it

Hear, hear! Why are so many looking for help but reluctant to make it easier to give it. Always the possibility that the seat belongs to a different make of mower.

[wristpin]

Halfords and Amazon both sell selection boxes of springs. There is bound to be one in there that you could use.

More faith in “selection boxes” that I have. I dare not admit to how many springs I got through trying to find two springs for the centrifugal clutch on a Anzani Powermow.
Please Mr OP tell us what spring you need / where it lives on the machine.

[wristpin]

Not all springs are born equal! Give us a clue.

[wristpin]

Sounds as though you have the old “ straight” nipples as used on lots of older kit – vintage cars, Suffolk and Ransomes mowers to name several. You can possibly pick up a pump type gun with a suitable connector at an auto jumble . If lubrication is more important than originality just switch the nipples to modern “snap-on “ ones. ( Type, not the tool seller!). Threads could be BSP or UNF – a Monro tiller collector can probably advise you.
A trick that was used by old school mechanics was to lay a piece of thin clean cotton cloth over the nipple and apply the gun connector over it providing a seal while still allowing grease to be forced through it.

[wristpin]

Just a thought.
Hunting may be caused by wear / maladjustment of the governor or it may be the governor reacting to another cause such as a restricted maladjusted fuel supply. The simplest test for that is to partially close the choke. If it smooths out the hunting it points to wards a carburettor issue rather than a governor one.

[wristpin]

By the way, what should the torque figures be for the cyl head bolts ? My B&S repair book states 140lb/in. So I am guessing it should be the same for a Tecumseh.

The Tecumseh book says 12-16 ftlbs so with unlubricated threads you can afford to increase a bit from your BS setting.
Valve clearances. My Tec book says 6 thou inlet and 8 for the exhaust on the older engines. Small side valve Tecumseh have always been sensitive to the exhaust clearance . Set it on the wrong place on the cam and you will end up with a huge gap and wrist spraining kick back .
BS small side valves have always been 5-7 inlet and 7-11 exhaust for early ones and 7-9for later ones.

[wristpin]

No cabinet? So unless you are contemplating a dedicated blasting room or confined area where you can scoop up the used media for reuse it will be a total loss operation and appropriately expensive. In the circumstances that you have outlined you would probably need a blasting pressure pot to contain the media fed by a sizeable compressor to a pressure fed gun.
I think that you need to investigate and define what you can afford in terms of space, capacity and cost, versus what would be better farmed out.
You mention the possibility of doing railings etc . An acquaintance of mine does a lot of that sort of work using a trailer mounted road drill compressor . He recently did all the internal beams in an old timber framed house – family moved out, house emptied,
and a week’s work . Then fifteen tons of media to shovel and vacuum out of the house – another week’s work.

[wristpin]

As a rule you should not lubricate head bolts – certainly not with Copperslip or similar. Many engine manufacturers will specify dry threads or, as in the case of BS, lightly oiled which is defined as a squirt of oil, wiped round with a paper towel to spread it and then remove all all surplus.
Not only does lubrication of head bolts encourage slackening but also makes a nonsense of initial torque settings. Also, the use of Loctite or similar thread locking compounds can have a similar effect resulting in the torque wrench not cracking off until after the stretch point of the bolt.
There are all sorts of differing opinions on this and a bit of Googling will bring up some interesting reading.

Back to your initial query, don’t rule out an ignition issue ranging from just dirty or maladjusted points to a failing condenser or coil. Don’t forget VICTOR – Valves, Ignition, Carburettor – in that order.

[wristpin]

For a start, no sand, silicosis.
Cabinet size, what sized parts do you have in mind?
Bench mounted or free standing? Top or end loading
That will affect the sized compressor that you need – you can never have too much air.

Now to practicalities. I mess about with domestic mowers and have a cheapish Sealy bench mounted with home made additional dust extraction – a Henry vac with a cheapo Chinese cyclone interceptor to protect it. Additional LED internal lighting . Both necessary to see what I’m doing. Compressor, belt driven, iron bore pump , 14cuft min free air delivered on a dedicated 20amp circuit. Does most of what I need – anything bigger goes down the road – £60 per hour.

[wristpin]

Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be !
I went to my first outdoor IOG show at Motspur Park in 1976, I think. The show moved to a few other venues such as Kempton Park an eventually settled at Windsor Race Course. The show was always held at the beginning of September and it was always fine!!
We used to shut the business for the day and hire a mini bus, take all the staff and the head groundsmen / gardeners from our important customers – a good boys and girls day out.
I even attended s couple of Windsor shows after official retirement in 2012 but when commercial pressures brought about the move to the NEC which probably made business sense it was time to call it a day.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by wristpin.

[wristpin]

Please note the person that started this topic is no longer a forum member

The significance is?

[wristpin]

he suspects it is the bore or crank that has worn.

“Suspects” worries me. At the best an educated?guess. As AF has suggested, lift the head and inspect the bore for obvious deep scoring or galling. If all appears to be well, there’s not much more to be discovered without serious dismantling and measuring. You don’t mention the make of engine fitted but if it’s a side valve Briggs and Stratton I’d have a look at the valves. A valve job / top end overhaul can be done without special tools but a couple do make life easier.
Take the valve chest cover off and before going any further check the valve gaps. Most BS side valve lumps need 5-7thou on the inlet and 7-11 on the exhaust for early ones and 7-9 on the later. Measured with the piston 1/4” down from Top Dead Centre on the power stroke. If the clearances are tight it’s an immediate pointer to go further and remove the valves. Inspect the valve faces and seats and also for any signs of a loose seat. Particularly a loose seat as they can come adrift when the engine warms up but sneakily drop back into place as it cools.
No point in me going any further until those “suspects” have been checked.
If you don’t feel up to doing this, either find a slightly more enthusiastic engine man or, as AF says, fit a new engine. Loncin happens to be a favourite of mine.

PS. When it cuts out, have you checked that there is still a spark ?? We may all be up the wrong tree!!

[wristpin]

Join the club ( see sticky at the top) . Then all the area reps are listed. Joining gives you access to a huge amount of knowledge and practical help. HINT !!

[wristpin]

Definitely sounds like metal to metal. Perhaps that clutch is not quite sorted. Remote diagnosis is always tricky, perhaps your area VHGMC rep can point you in the direction of a member with Howard knowledge.

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