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Viewing 15 posts - 8,086 through 8,100 (of 8,814 total)
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  • #3114
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    The ammount of what looks like soft oily coke in the cylinder head suggest oil burning and ring wear but, if the engine is not going to be asked to work for its living, you may get away with giving as much attention to detail with compression and carburettion as you have to the ignition.
    Fit a new needle and seat for the carb so as to hit that issue on the head for once and for all; although careful lapping may cure flooding, on a cost versus aggo basis I would go for new. (Meetens, Villiers Services or Villiers Parts).
    As has been suggested, re-seat the valves. If either of the seats is badly enough pitted that the fine grinding paste will not restore it, it should be re-cut to maintain the correct angle and the valve re-faced. Prolonged lapping with coarse paste should be avoided as it tends to furrow the valve face and round the seat face.
    My favourite quote from “Small Engine Secrets and Solutions” (unfortunately out of print) is
    ” Technicians who are valve critical will always have a better record of repair success than those who take a near enough approach”
    Very true and a time saver in the long run.

    #3113
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi.
    I have just removed the villiers engine from an allen scythe and the cork gearbox gasket/insert fell apart. Any idaes about a replacement for the cork piece
    Thanks Bob

    #3112
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Have you ground the valves? I’d bet the exhaust one is pitted and not totally seating.

    #3108
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Hi, I am a new member & owner of the Coleby Shire purchased off Ebay in September. There were 2 on Ebay that month, one was a very tidy example, mine is the one from Derbyshire needing restoration. It does need a lot of work, in particular the gearbox which obviously suffered a failure before being left out in the elements for 20 years & filling with water. This is the biggest challenge as a gear or two will be required along with bearings etc.
    The engine is seized but should be ok, I have no idea what make it is & can find nothing that resembles it in books or on the net. According to the limited literature that I have, BSA was used (it is not one of those) or JAP model 6 (not that either but barrel/head look exactly like JAP items). All I know so far is the bore diameter is 80mm, it has a Wico mag & Zenith carb.
    Perhaps someone can help me here as I (& my 12 year old apprentice) are keen to learn as much possible about this intriguing little tractor. The intention is to show it (hopefully next year, but may be optimistic), I also have a 1946 Kendall tractor.

    #3102
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    That definitely solves the the issue as everything matches the info’ from the States. Also, easy to see the Suffolk connection – the sump in particular. I wonder what the deal was; did Suffolk buy the rights when BS moved on to a later design or were they paying royalties on a per engine basis. Pity that they didn’t update with a later Briggs rather than that horrible Tecumseh inspired 98cc alloy blocked lump.

    #3097
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    finally got the photos

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    #3096
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Great video, nice one sten 🙂

    #3095
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Loved the video thought it was really good. Thank you

    #3094
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Super photos really enjoyed looking at them. I was there and your photos really do you credit.

    #3090
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    its my own fault painted it one day dried it with heat, clearcoat next day, i should have known better, but you know how it is when your on the home run of a project you tend to do things that you would not normaly do and regret it later:S

    #3087
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Have been able at lunch time, to try and see if it will now run after adjustments .Once I had got it to run ,I was showered with a grass box of problems. Firstly it would only run on full choke and constantly tickeling the carb[maybe this is why it was coked up]. secondly checked the float in the bowl just to see if level was low on the needle. slight adjustment required. re assembled every thing and proceeded to start up. More problems, 1. constantly flooding and would not run again except on choke even although it was wasting fuel ,which would have made an arab weep !!!!!! 2.with the choke fully open it would run for 20 seconds then stop. What is going on here could someone with a lot more knowledge than myself give me some advise. PLEASE.

    #3082
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Click on members, then click your name then you will see messages on your profile. Hope this helps as I am still learning myself. Owen.

    #3080
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    real good video, thanks for sharing.

    #3079
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    Got my copy today as well, another good read as always.
    Living in Northern Ireland I usually get my copy a day or so later so I am very pleased.

    #3075
    vhgmcbuddy
    Keymaster

    I guess one of the reasons these old units worked well on relatively low HP is the torque of the engine rather than its outright HP.
    The 3HP B&S engine on my Wizard is only 125cc, the Villiers MK25 is also 3HP but, is 256cc. It would therefore follow that the Villiers is likely to be a more torquey engine. That and low gearing enabled them to use relatively low HP engines.

Viewing 15 posts - 8,086 through 8,100 (of 8,814 total)