ATCO 14 Inch Cyclinder Mower 1959 / 60

[vhgmcbuddy]

Quite a lot of early investigation of the engine type is in disscusions,but I have decided to transfer now here as we have solved the mystery. This mower is fitted with the MK 7 Villiers engine which is a four stroke petrol.
I have become the third owner,but have its full history from new including the original instruction book. Many extra bolt on goodies have been removed and now its back to original spec.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

This is what was added extra by our engineer who was the first owner,essential bolt on goodies which Atco failed to fit as standard. hee hee !!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

many thanks to everyone who has helped with the various subjects that have cropped up. I have the original old green which has been supplied by wristpin and it will make its way to the paint supplier who I use for DNA testing and soon we will get the colour named so others can order it by RAL 0R BS codes.WILL start the restoration at Christmas time when we get the builders holidays 14 days worth.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I thought that it was to good to be true,saying I was going to start at Christmas. I just could not resist it,so I clamped it onto the portable workbench and tried for a spark. Not much doing then I realised that the plug cap was loose so I cut it off and started again.
Giving it a spin with the hand drill resulted in a weak spark,so will have to remove engine and strip down. hoping that the points when cleaned on a wetstone will help and possibly let me get it running.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have found out that to check and clean points the total engine has to be removed with the mounting plate held on by four nuts and bolts. this is because the engine is very close to the mower framework,and removal of flywheel cover is a none starter.
Having removed the carb and cylinder head I found that a lot of short engine running had left the engine coked up very heavily,so a decoke had to be done.
The sparking problem luckily was a quick fix,there was a little life there but when flywheel was removed the points themselves where so bad with corrosion and high spots a full removal and a rub on the wet stone brought the point contact faces back to a high standard. a quick spin on the fly wheel then produced a spark which could jump 4 mm onto the engine a great result.

[vhgmcbuddy]

a few updated photos

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Have been able at lunch time, to try and see if it will now run after adjustments .Once I had got it to run ,I was showered with a grass box of problems. Firstly it would only run on full choke and constantly tickeling the carb[maybe this is why it was coked up]. secondly checked the float in the bowl just to see if level was low on the needle. slight adjustment required. re assembled every thing and proceeded to start up. More problems, 1. constantly flooding and would not run again except on choke even although it was wasting fuel ,which would have made an arab weep !!!!!! 2.with the choke fully open it would run for 20 seconds then stop. What is going on here could someone with a lot more knowledge than myself give me some advise. PLEASE.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have you ground the valves? I’d bet the exhaust one is pitted and not totally seating.

[wristpin]

The ammount of what looks like soft oily coke in the cylinder head suggest oil burning and ring wear but, if the engine is not going to be asked to work for its living, you may get away with giving as much attention to detail with compression and carburettion as you have to the ignition.
Fit a new needle and seat for the carb so as to hit that issue on the head for once and for all; although careful lapping may cure flooding, on a cost versus aggo basis I would go for new. (Meetens, Villiers Services or Villiers Parts).
As has been suggested, re-seat the valves. If either of the seats is badly enough pitted that the fine grinding paste will not restore it, it should be re-cut to maintain the correct angle and the valve re-faced. Prolonged lapping with coarse paste should be avoided as it tends to furrow the valve face and round the seat face.
My favourite quote from “Small Engine Secrets and Solutions” (unfortunately out of print) is
” Technicians who are valve critical will always have a better record of repair success than those who take a near enough approach”
Very true and a time saver in the long run.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok gareth and angus looks as if the engine has had a a lot of work in the past time for a major rebuild.

[andyfrost]

John , your problems I would say are Carb related. From memory the float level is not adjustable , the needle being fixed in the float , so I’m not sure what adjustments you have made.
Before going down the valve route(which I have strong doubts are not your problem) , firstly THOROUGHLY clean the carb , try it again , if problem persists , raise the slide fuel needle slightly and try again.
Be VERY careful when re-assembling , it is very easy on these carbs to damage the top of the float needle , check this on yours , they have an extremely fine tip , and the slightest damage will result in flooding issues.

Andy.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Andy. thanks for the advise. I am going down the road of getting a carb recon kit and although I have blown the carb out with high pressure air,all the new bits in the kit will add to hopefully things been correct. when this has been done will give it a try on the rope.I am also going to grind the valves just for good measure. will keep you posted on results.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Also is the cylinder glazed, a quick hone may help with possibly a new set of rings.

[vhgmcbuddy]

will check that out gareth but when I first looked in the bore it did not look bad,but as you say will have another look when the head comes off. looks as if this engine is going to get some special treatment but I would like it to run but do not want to go overboard . Just gone out to shed and put my hand over exhaust while I turned engine over by hand and the compression feels good for a small engine,i now have convinced myself that the carb kit has to be the first expense.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Im sure a carb kit will help, however in my experience with small engines( I used to overhaul 3-4 Hondas or similar every day for several years)The valves need to be spot on or the carb is often blamed because they rely on the seats being good to create the vacum which sucks the petrol in. The exhaust valve is often by its nature a lot worse than the inlet, but solong as youve got a valve spring compressor should take less than an hour to relap them in.

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