[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Angus another vote of confidence, Seems a long way off to be able give it a workout. Yesterday I got the exhaust flange off, tried WD and heated the nuts up a few times but the fear of twisting them off. Drove me to the mini hacksaw.

Attachments:

1. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

I believe that the original was unreinforced clear plastic but most clear plastic pipes are suffering from the current ethanol adulterated fuels. They either go hard or floppy depending on the particular plastic. The (usually) yellow Tygon pipe seems to be the most fuel resistant around at present. The original routing in the clips under the flywheel cowl can be a bit of a pain so if concours originality is not important it is easier to route it under the fuel tank over the left of the engine (as viewed from the operating position).

[vhgmcbuddy]

Will be a good test of JB Weld. In theory if everything remains tight and JB Weld does not break down to dust it should all stay solid.

As long as your taper is a nice snug fit you should be OK as it’s the torqued up taper that does the work. The key and keyways are there mainly to position the flywheel for correct timing.

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks john, still none the wiser on any filters yet..

I have drained and re-filled with new atf oil , the arms now seem to be moving a little quicker in operation but not as fast as I would like. I may need to run it up to speed which is a little tricky , up and down the driveway..

There was some sediment in the oil drained but nothing which looked to be of large particals.

ive been working on the tractor as much as possible and its looking much better in appearance, everything is working nicely bar the headlights.
https://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p300/blue2smoke/2013_0913hydro0001_zps142339c9.jpg

[vhgmcbuddy]

Cheers Sam, would be nice to have a few more in the horticultural class.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Were they the same engine as Tecumseh? Didnt they also have problems with conrod failure, if used at low revs for longer periods the dip/splash lubrication wasnt sufficient. They also didnt have any white metal bearing as such, the alloy conrod fitted straight on the crank.

Their con rods ran straight onto the crank with no separate shell, but so did Briggs and both used splash lub on their horizontal crank engines. My experience was that so long as the oil level was kept up to the mark Aspera/Tecumseh/Tecnamotor were ok. Way back I ran a Webb 24 with a trailed roller seat mowing over half an acre a week for several years with no trouble.
On the question of valves I would just say that although an Aspera lump may appear to have good compression etc it’s amazing what a difference a perfectly sealing and set up valve train makes.
As the author of one of my favourite small engine publications says ” the technician who is valve critical will always have a better record of success than one who takes a near enough approach”

[vhgmcbuddy]

Trying to upload pic but having problems.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I totally agree with what wrist pin says about valves etc, however I’ve been over mine with a fine tooth Combe yet still can not turn it into a reliable starter. I’ve had an awfull lot of bad experiences with aspera/ techusmech on the whole caused by poor quality control/inferior materials in the factory. For show keep it original, if however you intend to use it instead, fit a Briggs,or Villiers etc.

[vhgmcbuddy]

champion job that,when the frosts get to it, come spring it will cultivate easily.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I thought I should add a photo of the finished plot.
So here goes. First time ploughing with this machine.

Attachments:

1. 
2. 

[vhgmcbuddy]

I do struggle a bit with uploading photos John. I’ve tried uploading them on the computer but i get a message saying they’re too big, so i put them on with my phone.

Any tips would be good.

I’ve heard about the 2 furrow plough too. Do you know if they are a full size mould board Charlie? Is it as simple as 2 ts42 bodies fitted together?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Were they the same engine as Tecumseh? Didnt they also have problems with conrod failure, if used at low revs for longer periods the dip/splash lubrication wasnt sufficient. They also didnt have any white metal bearing as such, the alloy conrod fitted straight on the crank.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks John i have emailed it arround the usual suspects

Sam

[vhgmcbuddy]

These engine were as a general rule awfull, very occasionally you’d get a good one but not often.

Think that you are being just a touch hard on the poor old Aspera although it has to be acknowledged that they were not as bullet proof as Briggs etc. One thing for certain is that they didn’t tolerate poor maintenance, particularly bad valve seating and gapping. Unless the valves are in good order you can fiddle around with carb settings all day to no good effect. Bite the bullet and reface and reseat the valves and reset the gaps. Be particularly careful that when setting the exhaust valve clearance the valve is well clear of the automatic compression release.
Another area to watch out for is warped carburettor/inlet manifold flanges allowing air leaks. More prevalent on vertical shaft engines but worth a check all the same.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello. I have a Howard 220 a two garden masters with Aspera engines, If you alter the idle screw to obtain a smooth tick over then adjust the main jet screw at the bottom of the bowl to get a smooth running high revs. I will have a look at the numbers on my carb tomorrow, your engine is probably a Asprea H35. Some of these carbs had a fix jet.

[Author]

Posts