[vhgmcbuddy]

All of the above I guess. I need to buy a cable and lever. I reckon the cable is c5′ long but beyond that I can’t find anything in the plans.
I’m not sure if it’s relevant but here’s a photo of the motor.
Thanks.
C

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[vhgmcbuddy]

hi Angus. this is the one discovered under a pile of coal in a cellar,amazing how its survived.

[vhgmcbuddy]

What I would call a modern classic and well worth preserving, not the least because many people don’t consider them rare or valuable enough to to be worth hanging on to – then there were none! Pity that the tank and engine cowl appear to have been treated to the wrong shade of green otherwise it could possibly preserved as it stands. Must have had a gentle life for the box to be as good as it appears.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Will need to sort the file out as it is too big.

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s good, and cheap compared with the 28″ Atco one I had from them a year ago !

[vhgmcbuddy]

what is the best way to re=attach the friction segments to the plates on the Albion clutch

[vhgmcbuddy]

All you need to know is here collecting dust on one of our shelves,just send me the number on that plate prefixed with letters.
The answer for dating most lawn mowers is care of The Hall & Duck Trust

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have been to collect a box of 14″ light Atco spares today. Both side plates, cylinder, bottom blade frame, almost new bottom blade, bearings and carriers, front and rear roller axles, the bars and tubes which space and mount the engine plus all the nuts, bolts, gears and chains…. All for 99p!

The other almost complete mower found its way into the back of the car somehow???? Just needs a new HT lead, a fuel tank, refit the kick start and adjust the clutch.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Oh dear…….. They appear to be multiplying………

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Hortiman yes I think you are correct.
I think the idea was that the surface area of fuel was less to slosh around than a tank mounted horizontally and the tyres on the outside gave a large footprint and extra grip over the roller models.
Some of the Villiers engines were also fitted with a sump adaptor to increase the amount of oil for continued use on banks.

If any members need any info or parts I have lots of detailed drawings on the Hayter 26 and would be happy to copy and post

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes Two Days.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello
Is it over two days?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Air cleaner-put it on as it will richen the mixture slightly.
Timing – hopefully there is someone on the forum who knows the precise method for your setup but from distant memory the engine should be rotated until the impulse trips and then turned back to the point at which the contact breakers just starting to open and the timing set then.
As I said, a distant memory and not specific to your engine!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have now had the magneto professionally refurbished. It has been fitted with a new condenser and coil. The original condenser was found to be completely shot and the coil was way past its best. According to the test results following the rebuild, the minimum rotor speed that the mag needs to produce a consistent spark when cold is 138rpm (so 276rpm engine speed). After heating to 50 degrees celsius, the rotor speed needs to be a minimum of 170rpm. The spark remained consistent all the way up to 3000rpm.
So, I fitted the mag back to the Norton and after 20 minutes of pulling on the starting strap, it did eventually fire, once!!! Not to be detered, I continued pulling for another 10 minutes before it sputtered into life, albeit for only 5 seconds, but I’ll take that as a victory!!!!
I have set the timing so that the points begin to open at exactly top dead centre, as I believe this is normal practice to make starting easier (allegedly!!!). Would I be right in thinking that the quoted figure of 3/8″ before TDC relates to once the engine is running normally and that this is achieved by adjusting the lag angle. According to the Norton engine manual 3/8″ equates to 28 degrees, so is this what the lag angle should be set to?
Now I am confident that the mag is working as it should, I think the carb needs some adjustment. The carb is an Amal 225. I have read previously on this forum that the main jet needle should be wound in until fully seated and then wound out by one and a half turns, which I have done. There is also an air adjusting screw fitted at the air intake end of the carb, running parallel with the body. Does anyone know what position this should be set in?
Finally, I was testing the engine without the air cleaner connected up, so could this cause the engine to get too much air and make it difficult to start?

As usual, any advice on the fine art of magneto setting and carburetion would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks all for comments 😉

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