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November 7, 2018 at 7:03 pm #29606
vhgmcbuddyMemberThanks I would be very grateful. To be quite honest the one I have is not really worth putting back on in the state it is in as it is cracked diagonally across one corner. As a last resort there is a company locally which manufactures containment flasks for the nuclear industry who may have somebody who could effect a decent repair but it would be easier just to replace it especially as there is a bit missing.
I am hoping to clean the gearbox out this weekend and sort out most of the other jobs such as checking the tracks over and general lubrication so that we can be as near to ready as possible for when the gearbox lid issue is resolved. Still lots of little jobs to sort out though and it always takes longer than you estimate.November 6, 2018 at 3:42 pm #29600
vhgmcbuddyMemberThat’s a good idea about the kill switch, should be nice and simple to do. I finally got the old cover off yesterday, came off quite easily with the aid off a two legged puller which I borrowed. Mind you it should have done after a week of heating and lubricating. It is in very poor order with a little bit missing where one of the brake bands rods comes through so it does really need replacing. I am in cambridgeshire, where are you?
November 5, 2018 at 3:00 pm #29595
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Charlie, thanks for that information. Any idea of the company location/timelines? Judging from those pictures there are 3 different machines in the gallery. Anyone with any information on the clutch setup of these?
November 4, 2018 at 7:51 pm #29586
vhgmcbuddyMemberDave,
Thanks for the offer of the book download but we got hold of a paper copy. It has been very useful. As regards the machine number the plate is very rusty but I have cleaned it up and think I can make the number out but I am going to get my wife have a look to confirm before I let you know. Where would I find the engine number, I had a quick look but couldn’t see anything.November 4, 2018 at 12:29 pm #29584
vhgmcbuddyMemberI think Neil advised a puller and heat but I just thought I’d ask if anybody else had any other ideas. The pullers I have are 3 legged and won’t pull evenly and I don’t want to damage the top of the shaft as it looks as if it has had some previous attention. I can borrow a two legged one tomorrow to try but it’s holding me up today.
The gearbox cover has already been damaged in the past and I am intending to replace that when I can find one as it let’s the rest of the machine down. I wouldn’t mind if it was a tidy repair but it’s not.
I’ll get a new grease gun and try the 140 oil in it then, the stuff that’s slowly draining out of the final drives looks pretty thick and nasty.
My son is coming up to eleven and expressed an interest in the ransomes at a steam rally we were at so I thought this would be a better bet than my full size fleet which my daughter drives under supervision. I also want him to get away from the computer and television and gain some practical skills so this seemed perfect and my wife approved so we are all happy. I may not have got away with another full sized tractor!October 31, 2018 at 9:39 am #29552
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Wristpin, Thanks. Just seen your post re box spanner and it reminded me I’ve got a few I inherited somewhere. Just where? Also, a chap I volunteer with at the National Trust races 1960’s Formula Fords so should source one there, plus he’s currently got my welding mask on loan so owes me a favour. Cheers, Mick
October 31, 2018 at 9:27 am #29551
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Wristpin, Many thanks for helping out someone who’s very much still wearing L plates with his first mower. I had a more careful look at the flywheel last night and there’s punched dots on the flywheel and the back plate that I hadn’t noticed previously. Took the head off to be sure and they correspond to TDC. Phew! Hopefully that will make cleaning, checking* & refitting the ignition parts easier and for an accurate set up. So will sort through a toolbox full of rusty “vintage” spanners in my Dad’s garage at the weekend. I suspect (hope!) there are some Whits in there and one of the right size. Failing that I’ll invest some £££ in acquiring one. Once again many thanks. Cheers, Mick
* I’ve just read your posts on getting the coil checked properly rather than just doing a resistance check. I am getting a spark and the engine has run but it’s difficult to start so I’ll just clean, set and make sure it’s fuelling first. I’ll get it tested if still problematic and the stripping & refitting will be good practice.October 30, 2018 at 5:06 pm #29546
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Trusty, Thanks for the info. As per reply to Wristpin I’ll have a bash at it when I’ve found a hex spanner that fits properly. Cheers, Mick
October 30, 2018 at 5:03 pm #29545
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Wristpin, Thanks for the info, yet again! I’ll mark up the flywheel and crank before undoing the nut so as to reset the timing correctly. Will have a bash (literally) at it when I’ve found a hex spanner that fits properly. Cheers, Mick
October 29, 2018 at 9:58 am #29529
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Andy, Thanks for the reply & advice. Will try Meetens. Cheers, Mick
October 28, 2018 at 1:54 pm #29509
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Charlie, Thanks for the reply. I’d seen there should be a gauze filter in the banjo but it was missing. Probably lost somewhere along the line by the previous owner(s) over the last 59 years and just been run without it.
Remarkably, no grot present but I thought I’d replace with an original but I can’t find one on-line (Mr Google failed on this occasion) so thought the next best option was an in-line one to prevent grot getting anywhere near the carb while I try sourcing the proper part. So still asking and still looking for something suitable for a gravity feed. Cheers, MickOctober 28, 2018 at 1:44 pm #29507
vhgmcbuddyMemberHi Wristpin,
Thanks for the reply. Nothing was engaging so I took the engine off and removed the engine coupling assembly. When I took the 2 gears off (A889 A890) the grub screws in the engine coupling must have been slightly loose allowing the locking bar (R332) to slip towards the clutch assembly and the gears to spin free. All I had to do was tap the bar back, refit the parts and cramp down the grub screws nice and tight and the kick start engaged as it should. So not as big a problem as I thought if something had worn out or broken. Cheers, MickOctober 24, 2018 at 12:58 am #29468
vhgmcbuddyMemberMany thanks for your comments and contributions guys.
I’ve bitten the bullit and secured a Plowmate, it’s on spade lug wheels and in excellent unmolested condition.
I’ll post pictures when I get her home and stabled.Dave
October 18, 2018 at 11:50 pm #29449
vhgmcbuddyMemberThank you to both of you – most appreciated 🙂
October 17, 2018 at 8:10 pm #29444
vhgmcbuddyMemberMany thanks Charlie.
I’m looking for a machine to participate in ploughing matches. I regularly see Trusty’s and Anzani’s, I thought a BMB or Barford would be a little different. -
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