[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Jonathan no luck with F W Thornton – “The Automotive Parts Specialists” thanks any way.
Bob

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Jonathan thanks for the name of that company. I will get in touch with them to see if they can help.
Bob

[vhgmcbuddy]

Neil I should have said the piston is damaged and cant be used.
Bob

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks very much Charlie, much appreciated! Email sent.

I got it running yesterday, but think some of the rust, despite a filter, has got its way through to the carburettor and stuffed things up.

Thread will go up shortly! 🙂

Thanks,

Peter.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello 🙂

I just picked up a garden master 80 this evening, and wondered if the manual is available in a pdf, for example?

I need to strip it completely and check it out, so as much info as possible would be great 🙂

Thanks!

Peter.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks guys,
For those that are following, Its going back together nicely now, no real nasties found so with a new condenser for a nice hot spark it seemed rude not to give it a fire up on the bench,

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have been fortunate to find a Honda f100. Does anyone have the manual or the Honda f90 that lines it.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy, did what you suggested and it is obvious I have a howard bantam. Many thanks to you and Charlie for your help. Best regards, James

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy, thanks for your reply re centre driven or side driven rotors, but as I know nothing about motivators and have just inherited this vintage howard, could you explain a little further please. Many thanks and regards, James

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie – it’s not a brand new plug, but it’s sparking very well. The mag hasnt any form of impulse so it is theoretically simpler.

I may get a chance to have another go tomorrow, but i’m away for the weekend so probably wont get a chance to swear at it until Monday now….

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie – the soft fart fire has come at the first couple of turns of the handle, with the decompressor lifted. As soon as I drop it and try to continue to crank it just sort of bounces – does nowt. Then, despite that one fire, it does nothing again until i’ve taken out the plug and spun it over again, start over. Same result.

I need to cover over that blanking hole first and see if that makes any difference.

But its more the general systematic approach i ought to take to setting the carb that I am unfamiliar with. I was hoping that if i could get it to fire a bit, then at least that’s a positive sign and i can try different variables.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Merry-tiller / J, thanks for your response and link. I live in North East Derbyshire.

Do you know if the exhaust from a 1032 fits a 1030 (£200 ouch).

Cheers

Paul

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie, just a quick note to pass on my thanks for your reply and most useful link. After further investigation it appears the exhaust valve is burnt out and probably led to someone constantly cranking the engine and knackering the dynastart. Also it looks like someone has wired the coil wiring to the battery wire on the dynstart and might explain why the coil isn’t working… think I’ve found a company that can repair.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Okay…. we’re in business! Neil – thanks for the condenser replacement, i’ve replaced it and given the points a polish while I’m at it and there’s a good spark now when holding the HT lead to ground.

Just need to get back to the allotment and get it back on the machine…. re-do the timing…. fresh petrol…. moment of truth.

Watch this space (although doubt it will be for a while yet).

Thanks for your help this far.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The reason the points wouldn’t adjust was because a piece of the brown insulating material was wedged behind so that was easily corrected. The coil seems to show the right amount of resistance and I have cleaned everything up so I can’t work out why there is no spark. Is there anything else I can test? I presume the insulating material is only to act on the breaker spring and therefore has no need to be behind the fixed points?

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