[vhgmcbuddy]

Now I have another problem. I not getting a spark at the plug. Connected the spark tester from plug cap to earth and the light flashers beautifully. Plug cap to body of spark plug light flashers as should. Plug cap to plug terminal no light. It’s as if the spark isn’t strong enough to go through the plug. Before you ask I have used two brand new plugs. Any ideas?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi it’s Will thanks for the quick reply and taking the time to give such a detailed explanation I will have a look tomorrow. I need to free off the reel adjusters as well it’s been standing for several years. A bit of heat a penetrating fluid worked well on 2 of them already. This one has the Kubota diesel engine . I might have to change the engine to first pulley belt as it’s fully adjusted but still slips in 2nd transport speed. Do you happen to know the belt details or where I can find one in Essex?
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that Charlie. Does anyone know the equivalent gr8 the Lodge BN?

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s a Mk12 villiers it had an NGK B-4H but I have since been told that plug will run too hot.

[vhgmcbuddy]

where did I put that beer….?

Soon be time for a bottle of bubbly !

[vhgmcbuddy]

Unfortunately I don’t have the correct shade of gold paint to touch up the letters,

Not gold leaf then?

All looking good. I hope that when it goes to its resting place there will be some acknowledgement to all your hard work, as in “ restored by” and perhaps a photo montage of “as found and progress”.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The spark plug that I removed is a 14mms thread and I now know the CB3 is an 18mms but I now wonder why the manuals for the engine and tiller state the plug as CB3

[vhgmcbuddy]

What marking have you got on old plug, the cb3 is an 18mm plug.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Sorry that should read CB3 spark plug😏

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for all the help and advice.

I found a Ransomes agent near Dublin which is the closest for me. Parts come from the UK but I can collect them easily from their shop. They can also arrange the repair of the lining. A good find I think.

I go on holidays for 2 weeks tomorrow so this job has to be postponed until I return.

I’ll put up a post when it’s back together and fingers crossed it will all work out.

[vhgmcbuddy]

That’s progress. As Trusty has suggested, having the shoes relined is the way to go. Back in the day we used to get the shoes from all our commercial vehicle units and trailers relined and it was a 24 hour service . Not familiar with your side of the water but there’s plenty of heavy transport, construction, forestry and wind farms etc, that must generate a need for a reclining service. Also, for those springs, there will be a Ransomes distributor, maybe one north and one south. Try them first.

Edit. Looks like these may be your Ransomes agent.
Broderick Grass Machinery Unit 33A Commercial Way Mallusk Newtownabbey Co. Antrim Nothern Ireland BT364UB

• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the encouragement, I finally got it off but it fought me right to the end.

I got another socket snug inside the box section so that made the puller a lot stronger.

To finally get it moving I had to put a flat head screwdriver at 12, 3, 6 & 9 O’Clock to separate the plate slightly. Then thread the central bolt back in and smack it a good 10 times. It moved a few mm from the hammering. After that, screwdrivers out and puller reattached and it started to creep off.

The shaft has a small bit of corrosion but nothing that should have made it such a struggle. It will get a good clean and grease before going back on.

I can see two problems with the clutch. The right hand spring is very loose and both springs will need to be replaced. Also, the lining (if that’s what it’s called) has worn/corroded/broken.

I’m inclined to think the spring is what was causing the problem and not the lining. There were no broken bits of lining inside so I don’t think it’s something that has happened recently,

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

trusty220, I am in County Cavan, Ireland

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[vhgmcbuddy]

If it’s still tight and refusing to move, have you tried knocking it the other way (i.e. towards the engine)? If it’s rusted on that might just do the job.

An inward smack may break the rust bond to get things moving. An old socket or a bit of your box section, end on will concentrate the smack close to the shaft. Also, turn the crank to position the key way to 12 o’clock and squirt a bit of proper penetrating fluid into it, in the hope that it may creep along the key and around the shaft. I say proper penetrating fluid, such as Plus Gas, rather than just a general maintenance spray.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks so much for the detailed message trusty220. Nothing beats hands on experience.

Apart from removing the two stud nuts, I think I was heading in the right direction but just to be sure, would you mind having a look at the attached photo and let me know if this is the set up you were describing.

I refitted the 2 stud nuts, attached the puller and started to wind it on using the partially threaded central bolt to push against. The socket is being used as a spacer to avoid the studs.

The 50mm box section puller is starting to bend under pressure but the clutch has not moved. I will fit another socket or similar in to the box section for additional strength.

I think I’m almost there and if the puller set up is correct I’ll keep going and hopefully it will let go.

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