[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the replies I’m not sure what parts I need for her I’m just seeing if there was an avenue for parts in case I stumble across something that needs replacing.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Got mine yesterday, A great job ALAN…..!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Am hoping mine turns up tomorrow!

[vhgmcbuddy]

I guess that was very expensive Charlie ??.Fortunately its only one of my “spare part” engines that the con rod / bearing issue is with.The original engine in my BMB Hoemate is perfect :).

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well done Alan lets hope everyone sends you lots of matrial for future issues, how about you area reps sending whats been going on in youre area.

Thanks Alan keep up the good work.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Got mine today aswell and part of my collections in it

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Mike for that was just what I was needing to convince me to go that route.

[vhgmcbuddy]

New parts for the Brockhouse engine are very few and far between !!
I have a BMB Hoemate myself.I have also brought 2 spare engines over the years but they are rather hard to find especially in good condition.One of my “spare” engines wants a new con-rod,roller bearings (steel and bronze) and crankpin but i have never found anyone who is able to supply them.I did manage to buy a NOS Amal carburettor and airfilter a few years ago though :):).
What parts are you looking for ??

[vhgmcbuddy]

As of today I have sold and fitted well over a 1000 of these gimmicks. When I turn up to a non starter I do not waste a micro second on the points and condenser I just change them straight over to electronic ignition, easier starting, smoother running, ignition timing automatically set and no kicking back. Takes less time to fit than changing the points and condenser as well as most importantly, reliable, fit and forget part.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many of the brass sprayer I get are in covered in a dark gunge – that’s how I buy cheap! I have occasionally brushed on brick acid to remove thick mess, but quickly wiped it off before it causes damage to the metal. It’s quite effective and time saving. Most of the time I use polishing mops and paste on a bench grinder. You do have to take care with the manufacturers names plates as the harsher pastes can rapidly cause wear!!

Finer grade wire is also useful.

I do not use polishes like Brasso etc as the brass appears to revert back to dull very quickly. Brass also reverts back very quickly the more it is exposed to external elements (so they stay in my shed).

My view is that as most of my acquisitions are in a mess, I clean them back to original but they will ultimately dull down naturally. I am not going to then spend my life continually re-polishing. They will have to develop a natural patina but without being exposed to chemicals and the open elements.

Not everyone will agree but that’s broadly how I work.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi pete, have got your entry form, many thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes it is a Kohler engine with the points and condenser as you describe. At the condenser there is one wire that goes to the points and then there is another one that is about 3 inches long that seems to have broken off from somewhere but I cant see where.
I was pondering on the idea of maybe fitting one of those electronic ignition module things that’s seen on fleabay, are they worthwhile or just a gimmick?
Any guidance appreciated

[vhgmcbuddy]

So an update, in case it is of use to anyone in the future.

Got new filters from guypartsandservice, ebay, who seems to stock a wide range Kohler parts.

So the first thing to get the engine running was to clean the points, a tiny piece of crude was all that was stopping it, it now start virtually first pull every time with very little effort.

My 13 year old and I stripped the brakes. I was told by the seller that the brakes weren’t brilliant. Actually they were completely seized solid! The actuators were seized, the pads not to bad and everything covered in rust. The brake rods were rusted to death so I made replacements. Got the wheels off, drilled out the countersunk screw holding the drum to the hub and used a gear puller, some heat and lots of wd40 to crack the drum from the hub. Once loosened they came off quite easily. The drums and the hub were wire brushed and painted, the actuator soaked in lubricant and gently teased back into action and once opened up wire brushed and cleaned till free working. The bell crank that works the two rear rods was removed, the guttered holes welded up and drilled to suit the new rods. Then all put back together. The only thing not replaced that I would have liked to was the rubber boots over the connection between the rod and the actuator, I was not sure where to even try for a replacement. Any ideas? Needless to say the brakes now work.

I have re-routed the exhaust, this being a briggs and stratton muffler I had picked up. Initially I had it discharging within the seat box that covers the engine, as I believed it had done originally. However I think this assumption was wrong as the whole cover, fuel tank and engine was getting hotter than I thought sensible. I had a look at some other images online and noticed a few that showed the exhaust attached to the rear chassis between the engine and the rear wheel. That is roughly where it is now sitting. I am still sure a better silencer would reduce the noise of the engine so will be getting a box type one soon.

The clutch and gear box assembly came off friday and the clutch was stripped and clean. The lugs on the plates are very very worn as were the slots in the casing, the whole thing also being covered in thick oily grime. Once cleaned a bit of gentle filing tidied up the lugs, but on re-assembly the nut holding the clutch on the shaft would not go back on. On inspection the thread had stripped out of the nut, but it appeared that the nut had been a different thread from the one on the shaft. The thread turned out to be a rather obscure form so after a bit of work in the lathe with a replacement nut and a suitable pitch tap we were back reassembling! Once together and back in the bonsor the difference was remarkable. Gear change with no crunching! Yesterday I rebuilt all the linkages on the gear lever train as these had over ½ an inch of slop in them, this and a bit of adjustment have actually got the lever sitting where it should when the gears are engaged.

I will take some photos and post them later in the week in case they are use to others int he future.

I have plans to use the truck with a Model Engineering group that I am involved with, who have just started building a new track. It will be interesting to see how it performs. I plan to make a log skid attachment to use in place of the tipping back, as much of the work involves felling and moving timber on the site.

The only major thing I still want to do is look at the adjustment of the carburettor, which I will hopefully get a hand with from a very knowledgeable friend once he is back from a holiday. Hopefully this will reduce the idling speed which I think is a bit high.

Hope this is of some help to folk

regards

Pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

Presume that the engine is a Kohler with the points in a small metal “can” at the back of the engine and the condenser mounted beside it?
Would expect to see a wire coming from the magneto coils under the flywheel to the points and a wire from the condenser to that same terminal. If you have a handlebar mounted on/off switch with two terminals, one will have a wire to a suitable earthing point and the other a wire down to the back of the engine (the kill wire) to the terminal on the points or maybe to the condenser – just depends how it was wired or has been altered over the years.
With the on/off switch in the run (open circuit) position the ignition will operate but in the stop position (switch closed) the points and condenser will be earthed and the spark killed.

[vhgmcbuddy]

alan. there is an upholsterers in starbeck on camwal road. into mohair hoods and old car upholstery. supposed to be reasonable.

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