[vhgmcbuddy]

your right charlie, but the address was on the entry form and not everyone would have made a note of the full address before sending the entry form back to me. just trying to be helpful.
the line up is very good and i will make sure there are plenty of pictures for the cultivator

[vhgmcbuddy]

Looks like the end has broken off I could be wrong ? the end that goes to the butterfly.. could do with a better image of it .

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s the engine governor.the long end of the lever to the right of your image should have a link going to the throttle butterfly which may be part of the carburettor or installed in the inlet manifold. As shown it is set up with a fixed throttle (the threaded rod with the lock nuts) so possibly no speed control on the handlebars – depending on the type of carb fitted ?
If that doesn’t make sense pls take a wider angle image including the carburettor.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi I am in Sheffield you are too far away anyway sorry. All ploughs can be adapted to fit any particular machine Baz

[vhgmcbuddy]

i am in swindon not sure if a howard plough would fit on a trusty as it has a trusty specific coupling ??

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, I have a Howard 300/350 Plough that I do not use. Where are you?

[vhgmcbuddy]

The M in the Mk5M tells you that it’s probably a metric bearing . I say probably because it’s not unknown for machines to be “cut and shut” over the years and someone may have fitter an imperial bearing and holder at some poit. In fact your spare shaft assembly may have come from an imperial machine.
When you get the bearing out you may find the size imprinted in the outer race. If it’s imperial it’s probably an RL5 or RLS5. If it’s metric possibly a 1203 or 6203.
To get your good sprocket off without damaging it you will either need grips or a stilsons that are thin enough to grip on the boss behind the toothed part or devise a way of gripping the toothed part without damaging it. Having worked on dozens of Marqueses over the years I made a long bar with a bit of quarter plate welded to the end with four pins that engaged the teeth of the sprocket – spreading the load over four teeth.
A commercially available chain wrench or even a short length of chain wrapped around the sprocket and then gripped with stilsons are other options.
The bearing itself is a light interference fit on the shaft and can be removed with one of your legged pullers.

[vhgmcbuddy]

TO ALL EXHIBITORS PLEASE READ
i have made a bit of a boo boo, i did not add the site address and postcode to the paperwork,so here it is

beech field, beech lane, biddenden, ashford, kent, tn27 8ex

[vhgmcbuddy]

Now I found out that the bearing misses a ball and is blocked. My spare-bearing doesn’t fit. Where can I buy one – for a Ransomes Marquis MK 5M.

Thank you

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you very mutch, it was screwed and I got it off the shaft.
I also got it from my spare shaft, But as you can see on the picture there is one “ball” missing on the bearing. Is that a problem?
If so, how can I take the bearing from my spare shaft.
Thank you

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[vhgmcbuddy]

My trusty two wheel tractor as seen at strawberries

[vhgmcbuddy]

The two blades and drive lug now riveted on..

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie,
Both I would say were under age!And to young when asking for insurance.The machine that hit me was a walk behind BSA engined, with a black tipper skip in front. Looking at the programme I cannot find it listed.
Has anyone got a phone number for this club?
Regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

so 17 days to go…………… to everyone that sent an entry form , passes are now in the post. look forward to seeing you

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s screwed on with a conventional right hand thread so that it tightens under drive. A bit of heat will help but they can be very tight. However as the sprocket is already damaged the job is made easier – you can grip or with the biggest stilsons that you can muster without fear of expensive damage . A second set of stilsons on the shaft and plenty of grunt!
If you don’t already know, the driven sprocket on the cutting cylinder is left hand thread -again, so that it tightens under drive.

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