[vhgmcbuddy]

Those freewheels act like a differential to make turning easier.If you lift the rear of the mower up using the handles (so the rollers are off the ground) put your foot against one roller half then engage the drive lever……..you should find that the other roller half turns and visa versa.
Only use genuine Hayter belts and check the cable adjustment.Also check the PTO pulley on the LH side as they do wear.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Owen
That picture is like the howard 350 but this 300 I have isn’t set up like that. I would say it was set up more like the merry tiller where you pull the lever which puts tension on the belt to make work.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, it’s got a clutch. It’s operated with a lever and cable, if not used for some time it’s probably seized. Hopefully it’s just the cable. heres a diagram.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I can see that it points to the left. Forgive me being dense Geoff, do you mean grind off the back edge (photo Tip)

or

The inside, unseen side, of the left face (photo Tip side).

Chris

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Ferguson point fitted. I have not ground anything off yet. The holes line up now, if I grind off will I need to re drill?

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I am very sorry to hear of his passing, I only met him once, and he seemed a very helpful man, did everything to encourage me to use my Anzani.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks Charlie.
I think the owner is wanting to sell them if anyone is interested.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hello martin you can come any time I will be on site from 14-00 on Saturday may 2nd, if you get lost ring me on 0778 128914 dave foster

[vhgmcbuddy]

No worries Alen, hope your wife continues to improve.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks. I will give it a try.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Both drive roller wheels on 137 were badly worn, the drive rollers are actually bolted on with a nut either side, incredibly all bar one came undone with sockets. I have bought some repair rims from Neil and using a plasma cutter I cut down the wheels to suit the repair rims and pleasingly the rims are ready to weld on with minimal grinding to clean off the slag.
One concern I have is that as I plan to restore to as new for the 2016 80th anniversary, the engine cowl cover ( threepenny bit shape ) is badly battered and suffering from vibration tears I think it will be hard to repair, but in view of the rolled ribs in the original stamping it will be even harder to replicate. Fortunately I have a better one on my other T /2, but I have promised myself not to rob bits off it unless I am absolutely desperate.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi I think your Landmaster could be a Kestrel Mk 1, if you google landmaster kestrel manual you can down load or view a manual with parts list, you can then see if it is like yours. If you could fine part No it might help with finding that part.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi all,
does anyone have any entry forms ready to send back to me as i would like to start getting some idea as to who is coming and what you are bringing then i can start making plans. dont forget we again have a working area this year and arena display,, many thanks

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello chaps I am awake !!

Sorry Ray I don’t have any info on that machine, Farmfitters literature is pretty scarce, if I acquire anything relevant I will let you know

[vhgmcbuddy]

Update:

Many thanks for your various suggestions, I have tried them all, and I believe I have now found the cause. I have removed the head and valves, and found a lot of play in the inlet valve, so I think that on the induction stroke it was sucking air past the valve stem. Although the piston and bore do seem OK, I have removed the cylinder and am having it rebored with an oversized piston fitted and new valve guides. The existing valves will be re-faced or replaced as necessary. I’ll report back later!

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