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May 7, 2016 at 5:41 pm #20812
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterMay 5, 2016 at 10:17 pm #20810
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJoe the hub seal can be recovered by using a skim of plastic metal to fill the most severe wear, when you refit a new seal do not drive it fully home so that the lip of the seal is running on an unworn surface.
May 4, 2016 at 7:23 pm #20800
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterFrom memory with these, the l-shaped handle should rotate, handle tip facing left as viewed from the handlebar end should be neutral, tip vertical should operate the rotor blades, tip facing right should engage rotor blades and wheels together.
Hope this helps.May 4, 2016 at 6:34 pm #20798
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterGreetings everyone
I am certainly looking forward to this hobby and like my other hobby, amateur radio, all things must work and earn their keep so I am looking forward to keeping this Howard running.
I had a cursory look at the pulleys and drive belt as I am wary about the fact that the blade rotate whilst the engine is in the lowered position and it seems to me that the fan belt that I have is too large shoulder size, for the pulleys and so is causing the gearbox to be engaged at all times. Is it normal for the gearbox and or blades to be engaged with the engine in the lowered position, a manual of some sort would be very helpful here?
The below picture is of the Howard after I got it back from the tip and this shows the handle bars much better but I am still a little wary about making a definitive judgment of the type of Howard or date since there appears to be some conflicting attributes to my Howard?
Once again, thank you all so far and I look forward to hearing the enormous wealth of knowledge from the members of this superb club.
Warmsteel
May 3, 2016 at 10:30 pm #20791
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI had a Howard Bulldog a few years ago and im sure from memory it only had a 4 figure serial number.Yours would be a Bullfinch from the late 1950,s .
May 3, 2016 at 8:46 pm #20788
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi Charlie
Yes indeed, I did come across the reason for the name change but unfortunately found very little else to help me with the dating and so on.
I am pleased I stumbled across this hobby as I prefer to be able to use collectibles rather then a collectible just sitting and looking pretty and I just hope that someone will be able to help further.
Hopefully, once I have the information needed, my machine could be the first entry on the “Howard” registry?
Thank you for all your help and all the very best
May 2, 2016 at 9:27 pm #20775
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterMay 1, 2016 at 8:58 pm #20717
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterhi all, for those of you that have entered the biddenden tractorfest, you should be receiving your passes in early july
there is plenty of room for more of you to enter, just drop me a messageMay 1, 2016 at 6:34 am #20715
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterRemove the engine cowling first.Then unscrew the bolt that holds the alloy starting pulley on.Then unscrew the captive bolt that holds the flywheel onto the crankshaft.There are 2 stages to unscrewing this bolt…..first stage just loosens it when you will notice it seems to get tight again.Second stage draws the flywheel of the taper.Note there is no key used on these flywheels or crankshafts.The timing marks are stamped on the flywheel face and alloy armature plate.
April 21, 2016 at 5:45 pm #20653
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJon Cruse sold his last one last year !
I know DH Day of old, he sometimes brings Flywheels into where I work to have them re-magnetised. He is also rather eccentric !
I’ll try and find someone who can test it for me (cheaply) If no good I’ll find a coil rewinder.
April 21, 2016 at 1:02 pm #20650
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJoe.
The sprocket wheel is just a very neat fit on the hub. I use plenty of release oil/diesel/paraffin to soak in and then using a soft hammer thump the outer rim and then again at 180 degrees to rock the wheel on the hub. Some heat may also help. The rollers can be freed by tapping with a hammer ( as per manual ) Use a release fluid but not oil and do not oil when you have them free they are meant to run dry. The other way of removing wheel if you are removing hubs is to take off hub and wheel as an item and thump the whole assembly down on a big log or timber.April 20, 2016 at 9:15 pm #20647
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI might be doing it wrong but, when I tried a resistance test it read nothing.
Bear in mind, it is at least 60 years old !
April 20, 2016 at 8:11 pm #20645
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterJoe I would say that is an original box, the plaques have been moved from the rear of the tub.
April 20, 2016 at 5:39 pm #20639
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI will give them (Mower centre) a try.
I have Donald Day who is local, am concerned that it might be prohibitively expensive to rewind, that’s all. Have no idea what work like that costs.
April 20, 2016 at 5:25 pm #20638
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI couldn’t help myself the Mrs went shopping and iv had another go at starting it no chance with the starting handle so i made up an adaptor to fit in a heavy duty dril set on low speed and away it went chugging away nicely i think its a bit fast but not shure ill test with a optical rev counter when i get back of holidays but at least i know the engin works i didnt try it in gear cause i cant walk well at the min ill give it a good go when i get back from the sunshine.
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