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May 11, 2016 at 6:18 pm #20861
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterYou could try Standen Engineering (https://www.standen.co.uk/parts/) at Ely, as they acquired the manufacturing rights for Dowdeswell equipment.
May 10, 2016 at 10:31 pm #20859
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThat’s great thankyou, do you have anything covering machines prior to g951? And particuarly g500 and lower?
May 10, 2016 at 10:20 pm #20858
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI have a load of Howard service bulletins that were issued to the dealers.If you need to know anything just let me know as they make for interesting reading.
May 10, 2016 at 9:28 pm #20857
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThanks for pointing that out Stuart. there’s a couple of things that need updating, particuarly as some new information about the gem has just come to light. I hope to revamp it when I’m next off work for a week.
May 10, 2016 at 9:03 pm #20856
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThat’s a great Howard site you have there s1g.Just one small correction though if I may……the Howard 300 and 350 had a 16″ working width as standard (not 18″).This could be extended to 23″ in light soils using the optional blade extensions and a wider rotor shield.
May 10, 2016 at 11:30 am #20854
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAlso I’ve bullfinch’s fitted with both type of handlebars and my bulldog has the straight type rather than the loop. The biggest problem with the bullfinch was that the engine was underpowered, the demon with the BSA went some way to address this issue. For more information take a look at my website, http://www.howardgem.webs.com
May 10, 2016 at 11:26 am #20853
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterHi if it’s any help bulldog number 6451 was built 14/3/1955 and bullfinch number 11151 was built 11/3/1957.
May 9, 2016 at 10:18 pm #20851
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterAs has been suggested, all that may be needed is a thorough clean of the carburettor.
However it should be noted that the BSA/Villiers Sloper engine fitted to the machine is “ungoverned”. That is to say,there is no automatic compensation for changes in load – its all down to a sensitive finger on the throttle lever.
In the interest of reliability it may be worth considering replacing the contact breaker points and condenser with a a solid state electronic module such as a Meco or Nova unit. Once fitted these remove the need for regular magneto maintenance and give a degree of automatic ignition timing not present with the standard system.
There is also just a possibility that at some time the centrifugal clutch shoes have been refitted incorrectly: this results in a snatchy take up of the drive rather that the correct smooth take up which allows a Marquis to be driven “on the throttle” and the landroll clutch reserved for emergencies and parking.May 9, 2016 at 9:22 pm #20850
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterI guess the carburation needs some attention.That particular engine should idle beautifully so strip and clean the carburettor and adjust the throttle stop screw (the one with the lock nut in the pic) to obtain a nice “tick-over” speed.It may also need the ignition system looking at too.
May 9, 2016 at 9:14 pm #20848
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterWelcome to the club !
I have a Howard 200 as well, probably a Bulldog. Mine has a Kohler 4HP engine retro fitted. Bags of grunt !
The Suffolk engine would be woefully underpowered for this machine. You will also find that the Howard belt won’t fit as the pulley on yours is not the correct twin pulley type and is not the proper diameter.
You would be well advised to obtain a JAP, Villiers or BSA if you can get one or perhaps a Briggs although being an ally engine it might not be heavy enough to give proper traction.
Getting the wheel off might be problematic if it has seized on as they are made of cast iron and don’t take too kindly to being persuaded ! (I know, I’ve a scrap one I tried to strip).
Otherwise, enjoy !
May 9, 2016 at 8:51 pm #20845
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterSorry all, I’ve only just seen the updates! I could have sworn I ticked the ‘notification’ box but clearly I didn’t!
Trusty220 – what hole pitch are yours? Mine are 38mm between centres. The longest side (vertical when fitted) is approx 108mm and the shortest edge (cutting blade – or horizontal when fitted) is approx 90mm. Mine are also sided, that is there are left handed and right handed ones.
2 photos attached showing not too bad ones and some well past their best!
Oh, and I’ve now ticked the notify box so I should see any other replies hopefully.
May 8, 2016 at 11:58 am #20830
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe correct drive belt for the JAP and Villiers engine models has the Howard part number of 20707 which I think is an A25 belt (but check for yourself before you buy one !).
May 8, 2016 at 10:46 am #20825
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterGood Morning all
Thank you so much to you who have replied with some very useful information.
From the information gathered it seems that my Bullfinch is not as early as I first thought but never the less it is still relatively early and I am still pleased that I acquired it but it is a shame that the data plate is missing although I may try and make a replacement, for authenticity sake!
Further study of my machine has revealed further possible problems along with the possible “V”- belt problem.
I have managed to find a Howard 200 parts manual and assuming that the chassis of the 200 and Bullfinch are very much the same, I was unable to find detailed information on the size of belt needed other than the manual stating “V”-belt?
Looking at the attached photos it appears to me that the belt is too big in the shoulders for the pulleys and I say this because with the engine in the lowered position there is enough “grab” on the pulley on the engine, to rotate the gearbox pulley. The photos show that the pulleys are clean and should slip when there isn’t any tension on the belt.
This leads to a further possible problem and that is that the blades rotate even when the engine is in the lowered position (clutch disengaged)
Now, reading the 200 manual suggests that the “L” shaped lever only engages the wheels and does not do anything with the blades would indicate that my machine is operating as described but since it is not a 200 I cannot be sure that it is correct, does anyone have a Bullfinch manual that they could let me have?
So the question really is, do the blades rotate regardless of the “L” shaped leaver position and are dependent on the clutch been engaged or disengaged?If it is a question of the belt been incorrect, does anyone know what the correct belt would be?
A further problem is revealed when you look at the left and right wheels, the left wheel has a clearance from the chassis whilst the right wheel is rubbing up against the chassis and the castle nut on the right side is further along the shaft than on the left suggesting that something is missing from the right side, a spacer perhaps? Anyone with a parts diagram for the Bullfinch?So depending on the general consensus is, will determine what state my Bullfinch is in and what remedial works would need to be done.
Once again thank you to everyone and I look forward to more advice.
Warmsteel
May 7, 2016 at 10:21 pm #20821
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterhello
i have a small collection of howard machines and am slowly building it up.from the pictures and what you say i would say you have a bullfinch and early one which would have a jap 2a engine on. the bulldog was not in production long 18 months according to my books. and all had loop handle bars. and the odd bull finch had these but the jap engine where as the bulldog did not.
as for the belt there are two speeds for drive and rotor speed and you change the belt from pulley to pulley the pulley nearest the engine is the slowest i think from memory.you use the lever on the side as a chucth to control drive to the gearbox but the rotor will turn at all times then in gear then with engine at low revs turn the l shaped lever to enage drive to wheels.it will drive left first then lock both when fully turned.
hope this helps
May 7, 2016 at 10:00 pm #20820
vhgmcbuddyKeymasterThe engine appears to be a Villiers F15.
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