[vhgmcbuddy]

it does appear to be an N Briggs. If the makers kept up the original numbering system, the tags serial number comes out to one built in July of 1942. To verify this is the correct yr, Briggs always stamped the last 2 digits of the manuf yr on the back outer edge of the flywheel. You should find a small circle there with a 42 in it. This will also work for their model 6 and 8 engines.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi.
I have just removed the villiers engine from an allen scythe and the cork gearbox gasket/insert fell apart. Any idaes about a replacement for the cork piece
Thanks Bob

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have you ground the valves? I’d bet the exhaust one is pitted and not totally seating.

[vhgmcbuddy]

finally got the photos

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Great video, nice one sten 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

its my own fault painted it one day dried it with heat, clearcoat next day, i should have known better, but you know how it is when your on the home run of a project you tend to do things that you would not normaly do and regret it later:S

[vhgmcbuddy]

Have been able at lunch time, to try and see if it will now run after adjustments .Once I had got it to run ,I was showered with a grass box of problems. Firstly it would only run on full choke and constantly tickeling the carb[maybe this is why it was coked up]. secondly checked the float in the bowl just to see if level was low on the needle. slight adjustment required. re assembled every thing and proceeded to start up. More problems, 1. constantly flooding and would not run again except on choke even although it was wasting fuel ,which would have made an arab weep !!!!!! 2.with the choke fully open it would run for 20 seconds then stop. What is going on here could someone with a lot more knowledge than myself give me some advise. PLEASE.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Click on members, then click your name then you will see messages on your profile. Hope this helps as I am still learning myself. Owen.

[vhgmcbuddy]

real good video, thanks for sharing.

[vhgmcbuddy]

a few updated photos

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Have found out that to check and clean points the total engine has to be removed with the mounting plate held on by four nuts and bolts. this is because the engine is very close to the mower framework,and removal of flywheel cover is a none starter.
Having removed the carb and cylinder head I found that a lot of short engine running had left the engine coked up very heavily,so a decoke had to be done.
The sparking problem luckily was a quick fix,there was a little life there but when flywheel was removed the points themselves where so bad with corrosion and high spots a full removal and a rub on the wet stone brought the point contact faces back to a high standard. a quick spin on the fly wheel then produced a spark which could jump 4 mm onto the engine a great result.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s the acids in primers, retain moisture and hates lacquer.. how long after you’d put the enamel on before the lacquer Nigel..?? I guess you’d know to leave it as long as you can.. but it’s just got to be 1000% dried & cured.. time more than heat is the safe route.. but time ain’t always there I know.. but it’s one hell of a fantastic job you are doing.. just hope you get it sorted before doing anything drastic ( like wot I used to do! )

Brilliant work so far!

Titch

[vhgmcbuddy]

It’s the old synthetic vs cellulose based. I mainly get it when spraying primer over flatted paintwork. It’s bloody frustrating!!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

🙂 😛 😀 got it 😀

[vhgmcbuddy]

🙂

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