[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks very much for your information merlinkeeper.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie and Alan, looking forward to another good read !

[vhgmcbuddy]

A very good show for a first attempt, congratulations to Darren and Gareth, worthy winners both !!

I think we will be doing this show again next year…

[vhgmcbuddy]

Side view.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

That makes sense – Thank you.
Would that be just normal engine oil?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thankyou Charlie and Darren, however I’d of been happier if our display of Howard’s would of been judged as a whole rather than separate, like the judges originally said to me. I felt both of our gems were of the same standard.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well done to Gareth aka S1G…… His freshly restored very early Series 1 Gem won 1st place in its class with my later series 1 as ‘runner-up’

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[vhgmcbuddy]

And the larger machines…….

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[vhgmcbuddy]

A big thank you to those who came and supported this new show, Here are the pictures I took from this 1st year for the Autumn Tractor World……

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[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve got two Howard 200 parts manuals, one titled Howard Clifford 200 and the other just Howard 200.
The Howard one shows a Nut LH used after serial no 2231001 on the outer end of the shaft and no key between the pulley and shaft which is threaded so I assume that the pulley is screwed on. If I’m viewing the diagram correctly the pulley will be turning anti-clock wise in work and logic would suggest that it will therefore have a left hand thread so that it tightens in work. The LH designation after Nut would suggest this to be so.
The individual part numbers for both the pulley and the shaft are the same in both manuals but perhaps after the above serial break point the shaft was increased in length to accommodate the nut.

This may be of interest. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vxejbkoa7ys89ou/Howard%202000001.pdf?dl=0

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for the suggestions – I will try them all out and let you know what solves it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The crunching noise when moving the first lever to engage drive to one wheel is probably caused by the countershaft inside the transmission housing rotating. This could either be down to the engine idle speed being too high or a problem with the centrifugal clutch causing it not to disengage when the engine is idling, more often than not due to worn out clutch springs. Moving the second lever won’t cause any crunching because the countershaft will no longer be turning, as engaging drive with the first lever you moved will have stopped it from spinning. The countershaft sticks through the left side of the transmission housing, just in front of the left hand wheel, so is easy enough to see whether it is spinning or not when the engine is idling. There are some photo’s of the transmission and clutch in my Trusty in the Projects section of this forum, although the clutch on your Trusty will be slightly different, it works in the same way.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for the replies – I have ordered one of each product.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I use Castrol Valvemaster additive in my Norton engined Trusty. You only need 1ml of additive per litre of unleaded petrol, so a bottle will last a very long time.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Which villiers engine, if it’s the two stroke it’s probably either side of 1950. If it’s an ohv it’s probably about 1958-1961ish. If it’s an ohv the date will be stamped somewhere on the flywheel.

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