[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi AGain

[vhgmcbuddy]

The Villiers “Lightweight” carburettor needle in the middle of the slide is adjustable by the small brass screw on top of the slide.Screwing it in weakens the mixture and screwing it out richens the mixture.Adjust the needle so that the length exposed at the bottom of the slide is 2 3/8″ (two and three eighths of an inch).This is the standard factory setting.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy and Stuart. The timing really does seem to be fine. Really glad to hear there are drain screws, i had wondered about that as flooding really did seem to be the cause. Got one undone easily and about an egg cup full or so came out. Will try to start it again tomorrow.
The only adjustment on the carb seems to be where the throttle cable enters the carb, is this just used to take up any slack in the cable or does it have any other function?

[vhgmcbuddy]

all the best to everyone for 2017 and another good rally season stew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Remove the crankcase drain screw (there are actually 2 of them but you only need remove one) to drain the excess fuel mixture in the crankcase.I remove the screw on the magneto side crankcase half and then tip the machine forwards.You may find it a bit fiddly to remove and refit these drain screws but it has to be done as the engine will never start because its flooded with fuel.

[vhgmcbuddy]

All the best for 2017 to everyone and happy rallying Dave

[vhgmcbuddy]

Worm wheel is good
No drive to worm wheel or crank as clutch just slips constantly, everything moves free and easy, cutter bar been overhauled, moves freely and smoothly.
clutch shows no sign of excessive wear – no ‘step’ worn into the gear.
It cut and drove well for ten minutes after engine conversion, had complete overhaul of everything except slip clutch, then the clutch started slipping, I adjusted it, it worked sporadically, then nothing, cleaned the clutch, still nothing.
Just thinking, tomorrow I’ll check the coupling for the drive pinion, if that has failed where it is located within the adapter plate . .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Has the bronze worm wheel stripped its teeth ???.If its been abused / poorly maintained then you may have to get inside the drive train to see whats going on.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I from all the picst looks like a F30 , them/c I have has a non standard engine(a Honda copy) which starts easily but has the stationary engine lever plate and someone has connected a throttle cable to the plate which has 2 positions for the cable connection (the cable is solid not multi stranded) and does not alter the engine speed much. the cable may not be standard
I will take pictures when I can get to allotment this weekend for all to see.
Thanks for all the replies

[vhgmcbuddy]

Right ho
thanks Charlie

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi
If its a biggish machine from the dates you mention could be a F80 or F190. There should be an ID plate on the engine.
Both these machines had twin cylinder upside down engines with the crankshaft at the top. Here’s a couple of my F80 photos.
If its an F80 I have workshop and owner’s manuals which I can send you.

Peter

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Jon,

I am in Pulborough West sussex

Currently restoring 2 merlins at the same time. Taking me ages!!

Merlin No2 I sold to a local chap whos restored it. I had another which I also sold to a local lad whos also restoring it

The one I am currently doing will be for my son to drive when hes old enough. No deck with this one which does not bother me

Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Chris,
Where about in the world are you?
I aquired a Merlin some while ago.
However it is in many pieces, I am therefore after pictures and information to put it back together.
Anything would be greatly received
Many thanks
Jon.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hope you all had a good Xmas, all the best for the new year.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,
I would like to road register my Mayfield Merlin, does anyone know where I can obtain the records or a copy of from?
Many thanks

[Author]

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