[vhgmcbuddy]

The rollers would have been only painted inside and the sides, not the surface area,(circumference) I have seen many painted which are incorrect, but again its your machine so ultimately its up to you! If you do paint and try and use it, you will find that the machine will not grip, and slip and slide.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Trusty thanks for the reply. I did as you suggested and found that the multiplug at the bottom of the voltage regulator was not pushed together properly the securing clip is broken . I pushed it back fully and ran the machine and it was showing an increase in charge so fingers crossed it’s fixed.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[vhgmcbuddy]

Back in the day when the Vanguard was currently fitted to the equipment that we were selling we would experience the very occasional strange ignition issues – not starting, running on one and even not turning off on one. I remember that these issues were the subject of one or more BS service bulletins and were usually sorted by the replacement of the “diode harness” that connected the two ignition coils and prevented the them “talking / interfering” with each other. Failure of one or more diodes in the harness produced one or some of the strange symptoms listed above – frequently enough that we kept a new harness on the shelf for doing a quick diagnosis of any strange ignition issues.
As has been mention the Vanguard V twin was made in Japan – by Daihatsu I believe – and was, on the whole, a reliable sweet running engine but I guess, an expensive one to manufacture.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi will-haggle, thanks for the link 👍🏻

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi all,

An update on the Trusty. Struggled to get the clip off and did not want to grind it out unless absolutely necessary. So decided to firstly try to do a (agricultural) repair in-situ. The shaft was twisted, so jacked up one wheel, put another jack under a spade lug and another jack on the other wheel’s spade lug, which would turn the wheel in the opposite direction. Put some firebricks around the shaft and heated it until it was a dull red. Then raised the jack on the raised wheel. Tried to ‘bone’ the twist on the gearbox top. Let it cool and it was a lot better. The steering dogs do still get stuck if you move them too far along the shaft, but had already put a bar with hooks between the original steering lever hooks so I did not have to move the levers out to the maximum.

It was worked well whilst scuffling and then threw a chain again when starting off on the left hand steering lever first. The cause of all the trouble is the wheel and pinion shafts on the left hand gearbox having bearings that are both shot. Everything wobbles around, including the chain plate wheel. So took out the steering lever stop bolt, fitted 3off 3/8” thick, 3” diameter nylon discs to it to keep the plate wheel straight. Now have got the machine working again. Realize it is only a temporary fix, but am hoping it will do for this season. Have a couple of later Douglas engine sliding axle types that I intend to use in the future after rebuilding the clutches and engines. Will retire this 1945 JAP engine 4 stud wheel one, although have rebuilt the engine last year, so am going to put it onto a Clifford Model A Mk1 rotovator.

The above entailed ‘a whole lotta bodging’ and would not recommend it unless you are like me completely stuck with no spares. It took an age working in the field and is still only a ‘get you going repair’.

[vhgmcbuddy]

DOES the club have its own stand at the NEWARK tractor show??

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you, probably best to renew it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I presume that you have the chain off the machine ? So just take it to a bearing and transmission factor who will measure it up and supply the correct link. Possibly the chain is worn and it may be the time to renew it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for your answers. I have filled with JB weld. If i get any more problems it’s an easy job to remove it and try one of your other suggestions. Cheers

[vhgmcbuddy]

Guaranteed after shot blasting you will find more holes, its time to fabricate a new tank, as cost over time filling holes it will be a lot cheaper!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Soldering is best but you have to get it really clean first then once the holes are covered/filled coat the inside with POR15 I have used it many times on all sorts of fuel tanks and it is brilliant stuff.
You could clean it up, fill the holes with filler of your choice then POR15 inside.

[vhgmcbuddy]

ABC, Blackburn.

[vhgmcbuddy]

All i can say at the moment is its a 120 .and the rotors engage by a central push and pull knob.They both have a yellow alloy engine cover.3/18385 is the serial number on a plate on the chassis under the engine.Thanks.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Charlie and Andy i have just had a glass of port, you will have to bare with me ,thanks for replying to me i will be back with some information on the two shay rotavators.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve successfully repaired many tanks over the years using a heavy duty Rawlplug electric iron – no naked flame. Alternatively a large old style iron that can be heated with a blow torch well away from site.
I think that your main issue may be other areas that have not broken through yet but are lurking waiting to do so. Anyway, assuming that the rest of the tank is reasonably sound and you are satisfied that you have purged it of any fuel fumes, I would solder individual patches . Bright metal around the holes, Bakers Fluid flux and stick solder. ( not cored solder) .
That tank looks quite familiar – Ransomes? So, perhaps not too difficult to find a better one.

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